I also have an 08 SMR510 and I have not experienced issues like you are describing.

Besides the power up mod, does the bike have any other modifications?
Does the exhaust have the resistor removed?
When you say there are tears in the intake manifold, how long and wide are these tears? Just because the bike doesn't suck in fuel when you spray it around the intake doesn't mean it still isn't sucking air.

 

I don't think that any other mods are made on it, I'm also not sure if the power up mod is done properly from the previous owner.
I'm not sure what resistor must be removed. Do you mean the one from the O2 sensor, because I'm not sure where the plug is (see cable-cluster attachment)?

About the manifold see the manifold attachment.

 

When it "dies" at stoplights is it from coming to a stop quick, or does it just die while you sit there? I've experienced that loud "pop" then the engine dies, I'm guessing it comes from being too snappy with throttle from idle - usually have to choke it to get it started again. Try turning up your idle to 1800, kept me from killing it from a stop.

Next time this happens, pull open choke to start or use the hot-start lever?

How about the fuel-pump issue these bikes are known for, have you done the zip-tie fix?

My intake boot is also looking like it's starting to split - doesn't leak though. Spray some starting fluid nearby to see if it affects idle.

 

It dies when i'm at a stand still, not while stopping.
I've tuned my idle to about 1800, but the idle is still very inconsistent.
We've done the zip-tie fix and is should be pretty stable. We can take a look at it again, just in case.
We've sprayed starter fluid all over it (top, bottom and sides) and the rpms are not changing. But I've ordered and waiting for a new manifold, because it's pretty cracked (you can see pic in the post above this one).

I forgot to mention that we changed the liitle o-ring on the air bypass bolt, so it can't suck air from there.

 

I notice you mentioned it worked better when you unplugged the coolant temp sensor. Have you replaced it, they are are known to be of shitty quality and Husky updated that sensor because of it.

 

Well it looked like it showed the correct temperature at Ibeat, but how can I know... I'll order one if it's not too expensive, but which one should I order? If I order for 2008 will they be, as you say, updated, or should I order from a newer model? Thanks

 

The intake is cracked pretty bad. A temporary fix would be to put some RTV Black in the crack and let it set up before taking it for another test ride. Remember, when you are riding, there is a lot more vibration than just sitting at idle. Also if the o2 sensor removal wasn't done correctly, you would most likely get a CEL.

Pinepig is correct as well - try replacing the coolant temp sensor to see if that makes a difference.

 

As a correct removal, I think that the o2 must be unplugged from the exhaust pipe and some kind of resistor should be fitted. That's all I know, but I'm not sure what a CEL is.

 

Old temp sensor part number was 8000A6736 which was superseded by part number 8000h3649

Here for $15

http://www.ktm-parts.com/AOMC/product/8000H3649

 

We'll order it and change it, and report back. Thanks a lot Pinepig.

 

Hope that sorts ya out.:bannana:

 

Watching ,

my '08 510 is doing the same erratic idle (sounds like a V8 with a huge cam ) and stalls at stoplights when hot .

Mine will restart easy but needs some throttle .




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If your fuel level is about half and then comes those runing issues..Check your fuel pump position in that fuel pump rack..
There is some info how to check it, google fuel pump issues, in cafehusky forum has those infos

Also one case can cause those stalling issues are, that engine is running too lean. If your "speedo" say CEL 1 or CEL 2 something like that, to me that means you bike is in limited power in CEL 1 and full power mode is CEL 2 etc. Cannot remember any more precisely, but if those stalling issues are not fix, i would recommend to get that ibeat system, to see any fault codes etc, or that stock ecu is too lean then that powercommander is big help..But in someway little expensive

 

My pump was replaced and it's mounted securely on a different mount so it isn't moving , sounds good both cold and hot so that part is fine . I ordered the JD Jetting Power Surge 6X tuner to hopefully cure it . I have a wideband meter for jetting other bikes so I'll be able to tune it fairly good , hopefully that cures it . Would like to get an iBeat diagnostic to reset the TPS , I'm sure it isn't set perfect anymore and no way to do it any other way as far as I know.

I think besides the fuel pump moving and needing to be secured if your bike is doing the hot stalling and idling flameouts the only way to "fix" it is with a tuner to do a better job of getting the proper air/fuel mixture down low . A slow twist throttle is also helpful so it can keep up better and you have better control .




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Okay, guys, so I replaced the water temp sensor with the upgraded one and changed the intake manifold. It still idles very rough(in my country its now getting pretty cold if that matters). I forgot to mention that the fuel level sensor was broken off and I removed it, but I don't think this cause the problem.
It still backfires a lot and stalls when hot, but now I can start it right away (before I couldn't start it) as long as the tank is full. When I start it and give it a little gas it stalls immediately. It has very inconsistent behavior - sometimes it stalls, sometimes not. I think it only does it when it's stationary at a light and gets a bit hot.

Next I'm thinking of a valve and cam check and if they don't work - a JD Tuner or PCV or some other kind of witchcraft. I'll report back.

PS: IBeat showed high water temp error.

 

IIRC you can set the fuel trims with the Ibeat. Do you recall what the values were?

 

I'm not sure what fuel trims are. If they are the 3 percentage settings for low/mid/top throttle, I think I can't do anything with them(the arrows are disabled). They are 100% 100% 100%. And I think I read somewhere that it's either impossible to set them for this model, or you have to get the bike really hot for them to unlock. I'm not sure we've tried getting it hot, but by default the up/down arrows are disabled.

 

This is THE Ibeat thread, take a peek. Setting fuel is in the very first post.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/the-ibeat-thread.44621/

 

More info, for the 08,

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/new-to-me-08-sm510r-cutting-out-at-idle.44027/

 

Also more,

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/08-te510-ibeat-settings.26184/

 

I installed the JDJetting piggyback controller last week and now mine is running good , no more stalling and the throttle is crisp. I did have to do a little tweeking with the values , mostly adding fuel to both the idle ,low , mid and "accel pump" feature. Lean condition is main issue with these.

I honestly can't see how any of the previous owners ran the bike for so many miles with it like that unless one of them did have a controller and removed it, but I saw no wear spots or rub marks,or ziptie wear lines ect.. that one had been on the bike so I don't think they did. Could tell the guy I bought it from was kind of a idiot.

The idle screw does need to be turned "just so" , it doesn't seem to adjust idle up/down as much as a person would think for how much he turns it , but it also helped stop the flameouts even after the tuner was added. Idle is set to 1900-2000k.

 

So did the new temperature sensor fix any of the erratic idle issues ?

Mine is still being annoying when hot even though the tuner fixed 90% of the flameouts and it runs crisper and cleaner I still can't shut it off once hot and then restart without needing a little throttle then I fight the thing from stalling , light popping and stumbling . If I start cold and don't shut it off it runs pretty good just when I shut it off and restart when its hot that it seems to reset something in the ECU that makes it run like crap till I shut it down and let it fully cool down. I'm wondering if the temp sensor is messing up when hot and causing the ecu to change and the expensive tuner can't alter it back to "normal" .

I'm ordering one just to make sure I guess , something has got to change or I'm out of the Husky game till I can afford the KTM versions.

 

I forgot to post, sorry. I'm afraid nothing changed. I changed the intake manifold and the temp sensor. Next thing to check is to see if the resistor is placed correctly(or placed at all) and the wiring. After that - a valve and cam checks. If nothing works I'm thinking of ordering a tuner from JDJetting. I'll fix the damn thing.

 

The JDjetting tuner fixed some of the regular flameouts on mine and cleared up the running for the most part , however it did nothing to this warm restart issue , even after running it for a while when it's getting hot it starts to flameout when first stopped and fussy with how fast I can throttle up from idle , I have to constantly feather the throttle. Mid to topend rpm she screams.

I personally am ready to sell the damn thing or replace everything that has to do with the efi and go to a carb, where it can actually be fixed. Shame , I like the power of this beast.





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You might want to check out where your TPS is set at
that is usually where the problem is
The Mikuni EFI is great
mine works flawless even after 14000 miles
Check your TPS and go from there.
Bill 113moto

 

It's the first thing I did. I think it was on 101.2. Sadly nothing changed.

 

I haven't tried it with mine , I don't have the Ibeat for resetting it . I think there is a way to do it without but haven't read up on it. There is that mod of taking the butterfly roller out so the ecu can't control it , I was thinking of trying that , can always put it back if it does nothing.

 

Checkout millenium7 post. This is how I made it and it works.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/the-ibeat-thread.44621/page-9

 

Read this my friend http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?57602-08-smr510-ie-tune

 

Did you get that motor sorted out yet
Bill.

 

Thanks a lot for the link, but it was 100.2 - I remember now when you said it. Sadly I can't connect it to Ibeat it now, because I lend the cable to a friend of mine. When I do something else on the bike I'll update the thread with the results.

 

So guys, I'll order a JD Jetting FI Tuner. It says it's for TE, but I guess they're the same. This is it right? -> https://www.jdjetting.com/xcart/product.php?productid=147&cat=22&page=1

As far as I see everyone is very happy with it and I don't think I need to give $400 for a Power Commander.
I'm not sure how it works, but I'll read the manual, figure it out, set it up and reply back if it fixed the problem .

PS: If someone sells a o2 sensor, a used PowerCommander or JDTuner for 510 SMR 2008, please give me a shout out.

 

It'll be the same one for the SMR and TE . I'm happy with the JD jetting tuner I got . After some messing around with adding fuel , mostly down low all my stalling has gone away and she runs like a raped ape . It was $209 for mine here in the states. I don't have an O² sensor on my bike , it was removed by previous owner.

 

So I installed the JD Tuner. It was set to the recommended settings and nothing changed. I'm starting to loose hope for this bike and I'm feeling awful. The idle is still very rough and the when it's hot I can't get it to fire up again...

I wanted to make a video about the rough idle, but before I started filming I turned the gas very hard the bike popped, stalled and then I tried to start it again. After it stalled I made the video and that's what happend:

Any ideas?