Drop the front to a 13.

 

Thats it?

Stock rear is 47 right?

 

33. Easy to drop the front and see how you like it, need to know track specifics to get you closer.

 

.5 mile track, counterclockwise.

 

i rode my CR80 at Denton and was running 15-49 gearing and was pretty close... i ran a KX65 there with 14-44 and was pretty close... i think 13-47 at that track will be way short...

 

There is not a 47 on that 110, if it's stock geared which the post leads to believe, the rear is a 33.

 

Thanks filthyboatguy. Your KLX knowledge is pretty impressive. You must have empty pockets!

I have not counted the sprocket teeth. I know it is not stock and has been geared for a MX track.

Whats on the bike now is not important anyways. I thought I had read somewhere that stock was 47. If it's 33 then it's 33.

What I'm after is what I need, not what I have!

Hey LBJ, are you racing with TMGP?

 

Need to know what that rear count is to get you dialed in? I have never seen larger than a 39 made for a 110, except Sprocket Specialists, which will custom make anything. 4th on a 110 is waaaay talll.

You have to gear low to use it. But when you do you use 3rd like stock 2nd and 4th like stock 3rd, if that makes sense?

3rd and 4th are much closer than 2nd and 3rd.

Our 110, that's a 39 on the back:

 

Need to know what that rear count is to get you dialed in?

The stock rear wheel is KLX. It will be a KX disc set-up soon. So what is on there won't be used anyhow. I never should have even mentioned the 47 cause that probly isn't right anyway!

I'm interested in getting BOTH front and rear sprockets. So if 13/33 is the way to go... OK!

Sweet little "stacker" ya got there.

I can't wait to get out on the track!

 

I believe if you run a KX65 rear hub the lowest you can go is 42-44? I could be wrong?

 

i have seen a 39 on a KX65... i think that is the absolute smallest rear sprocket... anything less would get into the chain...

pazzoduc, i run Oklahoma SuperBikers, but, have raced with TMGP several times over the last few years...

 

i have seen a 39 on a KX65... i think that is the absolute smallest rear sprocket

pazzoduc, i run Oklahoma SuperBikers, but, have raced with TMGP several times over the last few years...

Yup, Sprocket specialists show 39 as the lowest rear.

I guess Astro and I will see ya some!

 

On our "short" tracks, we will typically run 14/39 area. 13/35 to 37 has been seen on some bikes as well. Just keep in mind what gears you will actually be using and gear for that. Third and fourth are the typical gears we tend to use, with second only for absolute hairpins or recovery from...ahem, special situations...:rolleyes2:

KLX 110s actually came with a 37 or 33 rear, depending on the year. They were not all the same. The "early" ones were different. If your first gear is too short, you will undoubtedly blow your starts due to wheelies or just plain revving out the gear before you can sneeze.

Engines with plenty of ponies will not allow throttle application in second gear without tossing you on your backside....

I have run anything from 33 to 41 tooth rears and 13 to 15 tooth fronts, both 4spd and stock 3 speed. Very short tracks with a stock 110 were great with 13/38 to 13/37 area.

Last season with a 14/39 on a 138+r setup needed 14/38 to be rideable.

 

Pazz you going to race TMGP this year? Im getting a Pitster X4, i dont think i can make the first round but ill be there for the second race (endurnace sunday) ill try to hit some OKSBK events too so if you feel like racing in Oklahoma we can share gas and hit a few rounds (OKcity and Norman) this summer..

 

I thought you were gonna race an xr100?
Yeah, I'll miss the first two Katy races. The bike won't be ready.
Certainly gonna do some Okie racing and maybe some practice. I've got a trailer that will pull up what ever gear and bikes you want to bring. Gas money is nice, but you can tag along for free if you want to put up with the wife and kids! They probly won't make every race anyways.

I got a line on a "crotch rocket" 50 for 100.00. Maybe it will qualify for some classes too. Thats all I know about it so far. Seller is a red neck brother of a friend. He said it was a "ninja 50". Prolly chinese. We'll see.

Oh yeah, I'll probly make the Austin date too. Gots lots of fam down there that will want to come watch.

Thanks for the gearing input everybody!

 

ill need to much money to make the XR competitive so im going with Pitster

 

I think you can run those cheap sumo wheels with CNC hubs no? I think they're 300 or so. My wheel set-up is costing me +/- 700 with tires. Plus I have to do the lacing myself! :hmmm:

Have you ever split cases? I might have to attempt that too to save some dough.

Ahhh... the joys of KLX110 ownership!

 

Case splitting is not a difficult task, provided you have the right tools for the job. A case-splitting tool is available from folks like Motion Pro, and I would recommend the correct flywheel puller...like $10.

Other than that, pop the top end off, remove clutch and a couple of bits, unbolt case fasteners, attach puller (splitter tool), and turn the srew and cases split apart. Just make sure on reassembly that you make sure your shift drum and shift fork shafts line up correctly with the other case half, or you will bust a case, shift fork, or a little of both.

 

A case-splitting tool is available from folks like Motion Pro, and I would recommend the correct flywheel puller...like $10.

Holy Crap! The case tool is 185!

The flywheel puller is 30+. I got one off e-bay for about 30 shipped.

 

Yeah, the case tool is relatively expensive unless you use it a bunch, then it's priceless. I have probably split a klx110 engine about 20 times with mine. Also used on several cr engines, xr engines, TL1000 engines, etc... It has been pd. for several times over. You could probably rent one from a friendly shop, or bum one from a buddy...
They just make it much easier to disassemble safely...without damaging the cases or bearing surfaces (crank).

 

tak eit to a shop to split the cases... it will cost less than the tool, how many times you split caes on a bike anyway?

 

This will be a first for me!

I'm having second thoughts though. I have a 4sp drum sittin on the bench. And I have a 138 kit so I was thinking about puttin an output shaft in there with the 4sp. So while I had the egg open, I figured WTH, I'll drop in a stroker too.

So my over active noggin started doing the math on the stroker, and the end result just doen't seem worth it. Plus I'm finding the 4sp may not be a benefit either. So I don't know. I should do the output shaft, but if I'm on the fence about the rest, why bother? If I blow the lower end, I can buy another one for the price of the mods and labor anyhow.

Maybe I shoud start an OCD thread!

 

100/90/12 front


120/80/12 rear