[BergRyder]

Probably the wrong area of this website for objective advice on a Yamaha, but what the heck.
I'm looking at buying a 2001 YZF426 thats already set up for supermoto. The bike has WR gears, motormaster caliper, brembo rotor, Yoshi pipe, lowered suspension, etc. My question is: Yamaha supermotos do not seem that popular, why is that? I would think that a double overhead cam motor, rather than the single cam, like Hondas and KTM's would rev higher, be more efficient and be better at continued high speed . Also the Yamaha motor has been around longer than the Honda and has proven to be reliable, I remember reading about a guy who rode his WR400 from Oregon to Costa Rica and back (try doing that on your Husaberg/VOR/TM/Vertimatti). On the other hand isn't the bike a bit of a porker? I've heard bad things about valve float, and what's with the oil in the frame?
Any input on the good points, bad points, and things to look for on buying a used Yamaha YZF / WR would be appreciated

 

[Eddie]

I really like mine for supermoto, but it totaly sucks for dirt cause it has a real heavy feel to it...

 

[kied]

I use mine on the road. Wired with horn, lights, blinkers, chain guards and mirrors.

I'm Loving it! Just fold down the mirror and suit up for track sessions. I've taken this baby from MX tracks to day-long dirt rides to go-kart tracks to full-sized race circuits (top speeds>100mph). Then it still takes me and my girl around town legally....notice the fold-up pillion pegs???

A little on the heavy side and clumsy corners compared to the latest crop of 450....but otherwise great bike for its price.

 

[Big Zero]

With the right engine mods, it will hang with any Honda out there. Not so popular with the Supermoto racers due to the fact that the 450s have a 4 speed gearbox. The Honda has a 5 speed gearbox which is better for racing. (more gear options) I have a 2000 YZ426F and have been happy so far. The oil is only in a small portion of the down tube, so it isn't like the whole frame is full of oil. As with any thumper, oil changes are frequent and required fi you want it to last.

You won't be disappointed with the YZ426, it is a well sorted out bike with plenty of street and racetrack potential.

Later Paul G

 

[BergRyder]

The bike is actually a 2001 WRF426 with YZF tank/ plastic, so it does have the 5 speed gearbox. The bike has a lot of good modifications, the sales price would be way high for a stock YZF at $4,000, but with the motard parts/mods it seems to be in the ballpark.
I think I'm gonna get it.

 

[Big Zero]

I thought I did pretty well on mine. $2800.00 in dirt trim with a freshly rebuildt motor. The guy went through the trans and did a piston and valve job. I would guess Ihave added an additional $2000.00 to it to add the wheels, brakes, tires, tubes, bark busters, and better handle bars. I have yet to do the suspension lowering due to the fact that I have heard so much conflicting advice about how low to if to go at all.

I went out there and added a port job and a set of cams over winter and have an experimental exhaust system that I am going to test next weekend.

Later

Paul G

I guarantee you will not be disappointed with your purchase.

 

[BergRyder]

Seeing as you gave me a guarantee I bought it.
Can't wait to go riding, hopefully Saturday at Amago.
See attached photo.........

 

[Jolly705]

Looks nice, goodluck with it :thumbup:

 

[BergRyder]

Just back from my first practice on the 426.
Nobody told me these things come with automatic chain oilers. Oh, I guess its actually the crankcase breather dumping oil into the air box and dripping out on to the chain where it flys off onto the rear wheel. I need somekind of catch can. :headscrat
Other than that, the bike seemed to have good power, and great brakes, much easier to corner with the lowered suspension. Starts first kick even when hot

 

[AV8OR]

what upgrades are done to the bike......Im in the process of tarding my 01 426 and your looks sweet!!!

 

[BergRyder]

Ok, here are the mods....
the bike is an 01, WR 426, it has the YZF tank, seat, radiator shrouds, Acerbis motard fender, Brembo rotor, Motormaster caliper, Light Speed front brake line/fork protectors, Talon hubs, Morad (I think) rims, 3.5" front, 5"rear (I think), Applied Triple Clamps, Magura MX2 handlebars, Yoshimura Titanium full pipe, Acerbis handguards, Light Speed carbon fiber frame guards, chain guide and shark fin, billet gas cap, the suspension has been lowered 2", the motor is stock - no slipper clutch (not sure if available for the 426). Future mods: axle sliders, new #'s and backgrounds, ..

 

[PowerFiend]

I was racing mine till the tranny started going out(02 wr426 with YZF treatment, motomaster, pipe, and 17's). The YZF 5spd. tranny would be a bit better for racing(WR has wider gaps between gears than even the 4spd 450), and you definately need to put in the Hot Cams auto-decompression exhaust cam.

 

[BergRyder]

What does the Hot Cams auto-decompression exhaust cam do?
Cost? Easy to install? Rideability? (although bike is for track use only)

 

[PowerFiend]

What does the Hot Cams auto-decompression exhaust cam do?
Cost? Easy to install? Rideability? (although bike is for track use only)

It will give you a bit more power than the YZF timed WR cam and will allow you to kick the bike over without having to worry about the bike being at topdead center or using the manual decompression device. It is a must for racing, since you would lose precious time trying to re-start the old way during a race. (as I have.)

It is as easy to install as adjusting the valves, which will be required after installation. MSRP is like $170, but can be found cheaper.

It makes the bike start like a new 450.

 

[BergRyder]

426 Good For Supermoto?

Now that I've had the bike a few weeks, I've found there are a couple of flaws on the older Yamaha for use as a supermoto racer;
slipper clutch not available, 5" wide rim/160 tire won't fit without some serious hassles, crankcase breather blows oil into the airbox.
I love the bike, I think the motor can probably take alot of abuse and its plenty enough bike for my skill level, but these are a few negatives.

 

[lowside]

5" wide rim/160 tire won't fit without some serious hassles, crankcase breather blows oil into the airbox.

What issue are you having with the 5.0? Turn your chain block bolts around, better yet counter sink them and it should slide right on.

Vent your breather to a catch can and it won't blow into your airbox.

 

[PowerFiend]

...5" wide rim/160 tire won't fit without some serious hassles...

I have a 5" with a 165 slick and no clearance problems. A 160 Metz M1 or a Pirelli Diablo also slips in. It is not as easy as a dirt tire to get in, but it is not hard. Flip the chain guide mount bolts and/or remove it for mounting, and the disc caliper/mount will need to slide in with the wheel as you are mounting. Slide the wheel all the way forward mount chain, install axle/nut, reinstall chain guide. Piece of cake.

It helps if you have the bike at a height were you can almost roll the wheel into mounting position. :thumbup:

 

[BergRyder]

I guess I'm assuming that a 5" rim and 160 tire would be a hassle to fit as I appear to have a 4 1/2" wide rim with a 150 tire and the chain rubs on the side of the tire. However the chain is worn and clears the tire by at least 1/4" when the bike is stationary. Also, I can't tell if the rear rim is 4.5" or 5", it's not stamped or written on the rim. Maybe you could measure your 5" rim outside to outside and tell me that measurement so I can figure out what my rim size is ( it measures 5 1/2" or something, but I know that's not the measurement they use to designate the rim size).
Thanks for the advice, I'll try what you have suggested, but just looking at the wheel it seems that washers or shims would be needed to move the sprockets over. I assume we have the same swinging arms? (My bike is an '01 WR)
The catch can I have already done - see the crankcase breather thread.
Cheers :cheers:

 

[lowside]

Get a non-O-ring chain and it should eliminate most of the rubbing (it only rubs for a few laps anyways) You can also offset the rim towards the rotor to get some more space for the chain.

My chain will hit the wheel if I let it get to the upper end of the tolerance range (2.10) but if I keep it adjusted to 1.6 it works just fine.

 

[BergRyder]

I have the non-o ring chain, but the one sized for a 500 mx'er.
I noticed that a CRF guy was running the smaller 250 mx'er sized chain, to get additional clearance, but the life of the chain was probably quite short.
I think part of my problem is that the chain is thrashed and it wasn't adjusted correctly.:hammer: