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Discussion Starter #461
Great thread and great info.

I plan on buying a WR450F before this coming riding season starts up again. Miss my XR600R but want something more modern.

In your opinion what is my best option for a Supermoto wheel setup? I have looked at DNA and Warp 9.... but should I consider cast wheels with the cush hubs and have a machinist/shop deal with the fitment for the WR?

I would be riding it most likely 60/30 (road/dirt) but very little to no highway riding. Any advice would be awesome!

-Blink
If you're not concerned with the speedometer drive then the Warp 9 rims are very hard to beat. They have great color options and come with a lifetime warranty which makes them a no brainer. I have Rad Mfg. wheels on my '14 and though they are pricey they are the most amazing sumo wheels that I have ever owned/used.
 

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How do you adjust the speedo on a 2014?? I just got done with the conversion and can't remember where I saw on here about adjusting it for the 17" front..
 

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Discussion Starter #464
How do you adjust the speedo on a 2014?? I just got done with the conversion and can't remember where I saw on here about adjusting it for the 17" front..
Hold down the trip A and the reset button and bring the number down to 83 then hold trip A and reset buttons again.
 

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i went with the warp 9s. Deff the best pricing you can get for a set of custom rims and mine were shipped in 2 days from ordering, then i upgraded front rotor and waited like 3 weeks and blew the tail end of the fall season doing that. Shoulda just waited but the rims are super nice for the cost. Just no use of stock speedo sux.
 

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H!
I wanted to do all the mods but so far with my no experience in mechanic i cannot do it alone at the moment.,
Is it ok if ill just do first several mods upto carburator ony ? cams replacement not included.
 

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Another Step Up and thanks for the Thread

Thanks for the thread. I have followed and tried a lot of your suggestions. While I don't ride on the street, I use a WR450 as my snow bike.

A good bike test, its like running uphill in deep sand.

Your cam setup is great
Tried 4 different pipe setups, mixed results,
Carb mods, and more...........I had an 8 year jump on the problem of YZ/WR carb mods, under constant load I came to the conclusion the Keihins are typical over complicated organized leak as they say.

So the best alternative I have tested so far is a 40mm Lectron. I have used LECTRONS since they were developed 20 or 30 years ago, but only on my two stroke dirt bikes and 2 stroke snowmobiles. I knew Harley used them on all their dirt trackers, but I could never get a good answer from the race tuners on using a NON ACCELERATOR PUMP CARB ON A 4 STROKE AND HAVE GOOD THROTTLE RESPONSE.

After tuning my WR450 SNOWBIKE and getting closer to really good fuel delivery, I can say:

your wr450 can start easier
your wr450 can have quicker throttle response
your wr450 can have a wider power band and pull lower and longer in each gear
your wr450 can have better fuel mileage
your wr450 can have lighter throttle pull with one cable
your wr450 can have a much lighter, simplier, fewer cables, no wad of plastic hose fuel system
your wr450 can operate without fuel deliver transistions that are quircky.......... rich and lean fuel conditions


There are issues:

cost $400 to Lectron in Texas for carb/cable/throttle handle
1/4 turn throttle handle from Motion Pro could be quicker for my use
on a dirt bike this setup would not be the dream setup for pilgrims ( however it eliminates flameout at low speed screwups )
quick and hard pulling off the bottom requires care, however
I hoped the system would allow complete adjustments without bike disassembly, not quite, but you eliminate 83% of the time and effort of stock chnages

My Lectron testing started because SMART CARBS are the answer. Except they never could supply one. Only lots of claims, no substance.
I don't sell LECTRONS, I can't say they are better than wr450 fuel injection becasue I have only ridden the early YZ FI systems, they needed help.

If your handy and can tune try one. If the cam swap was a challenge, wait, Kevin at Lectron will after awhile with enough feed back have a bolt and go for WR450's.
 

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After several generations worth of WR450 conversions, here is a list of "must do" mods if you're planning on converting a WR450 (in no particular order):

1. TRX450R Master Cylinder: Offers much needed braking power over the stock master cylinder. Also comes with an electrical brake switch which is much more reliable then a hydraulic switch.

2. Baja Designs Regulator/Rectifier and float the ground on the OEM Stator: Converts the stock stator to straight DC power and will give you much needed power to the headlight making the stock set up much more suitable for nighttime use.

3. 07 YZ450 Cams: These cams make tons of low end power and are much more aggressive then the 06 cams. With these cams you'll be pulling off 4th gear power wheelies with ease!

4. Graves Chain Block: This will eliminate any chain/tire contact which will alleviate premature wear of the the chain guide and preserve the tire as well.

5. YZ Exhaust: Will complement the YZ cams and allow the engine to breathe as it should.

6. JD Jet Kit: This kit will provide all the necessary jets, needles, and instructions to jet the bike properly.

7. R&D Power Pump: When installed along with the JD kit the bike will feel like it's fuel injected. This kit comes with the stiffer AP spring which is vital to eliminating the dreaded FCR carb bog and being able to make simple adjustments to the carb.

8. R&D Flex Jet (fuel screw): Allows easy adjustment of the fuel screw and safe guards against the fuel screw vibrating loose.
If you dont mind, it would be great if each has a price aquired and where it was purchase. thanks crash
 

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Discussion Starter #471
If you dont mind, it would be great if each has a price aquired and where it was purchase. thanks crash

1. TRX450R Master Cylinder: Offers much needed braking power over the stock master cylinder. Also comes with an electrical brake switch which is much more reliable then a hydraulic switch.

$30-70 on ebay


2. Baja Designs Regulator/Rectifier and float the ground on the OEM Stator: Converts the stock stator to straight DC power and will give you much needed power to the headlight making the stock set up much more suitable for nighttime use.

Rectifier is $60 from Baja Designs and $30 to float the ground

3. 07 YZ450 Cams: These cams make tons of low end power and are much more aggressive then the 06 cams. With these cams you'll be pulling off 4th gear power wheelies with ease!

$50+ on ebay or $135 new from Rocky Mountain ATV

4. Graves Chain Block: This will eliminate any chain/tire contact which will alleviate premature wear of the the chain guide and preserve the tire as well.

$90 from Graves Racing

5. YZ Exhaust: Will complement the YZ cams and allow the engine to breathe as it should.

$100-700 on ebay

6. JD Jet Kit: This kit will provide all the necessary jets, needles, and instructions to jet the bike properly.

$75 on ebay

7. R&D Power Pump: When installed along with the JD kit the bike will feel like it's fuel injected. This kit comes with the stiffer AP spring which is vital to eliminating the dreaded FCR carb bog and being able to make simple adjustments to the carb.

Power Bowl 2 is still available for $200 on ebay

8. R&D Flex Jet (fuel screw): Allows easy adjustment of the fuel screw and safe guards against the fuel screw vibrating loose.

$30 on ebay
 

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1. TRX450R Master Cylinder: Offers much needed braking power over the stock master cylinder. Also comes with an electrical brake switch which is much more reliable then a hydraulic switch.

$30-70 on ebay


2. Baja Designs Regulator/Rectifier and float the ground on the OEM Stator: Converts the stock stator to straight DC power and will give you much needed power to the headlight making the stock set up much more suitable for nighttime use.

Rectifier is $60 from Baja Designs and $30 to float the ground

3. 07 YZ450 Cams: These cams make tons of low end power and are much more aggressive then the 06 cams. With these cams you'll be pulling off 4th gear power wheelies with ease!

$50+ on ebay or $135 new from Rocky Mountain ATV

4. Graves Chain Block: This will eliminate any chain/tire contact which will alleviate premature wear of the the chain guide and preserve the tire as well.

$90 from Graves Racing

5. YZ Exhaust: Will complement the YZ cams and allow the engine to breathe as it should.

$100-700 on ebay

6. JD Jet Kit: This kit will provide all the necessary jets, needles, and instructions to jet the bike properly.

$75 on ebay

7. R&D Power Pump: When installed along with the JD kit the bike will feel like it's fuel injected. This kit comes with the stiffer AP spring which is vital to eliminating the dreaded FCR carb bog and being able to make simple adjustments to the carb.

Power Bowl 2 is still available for $200 on ebay

8. R&D Flex Jet (fuel screw): Allows easy adjustment of the fuel screw and safe guards against the fuel screw vibrating loose.

$30 on ebay
Thanks for a never ending support or help to your fellow supermoto fans.
 

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Crash...

I have a few questions for you since you seem to have a wealth of Yamaha knowledge. I am hoping you can help.

I have an '08 YZ450F that is street legal and supermoto'd out. However, this thread has made me want a WR for a few reasons. Easy access airbox, DC power without aftermarket stator, factory lights, battery cradle in airbox, electric start, etc.

My questions are this...

1. will a WR450F subframe with airbox direct fit on the YZ450F frame? If so, will I need to swap seats as well?
2. would my bike benefit from the 07 YZ cam? I previously read where you said something about the 08-09s actually being tamed a bit.
3. I am at around 700-800ft above sea level. I have a JD jet kit (actually for a CRF) but it has the same jets and needles as the Yamaha kit from what I can tell. The part number for the kit is like the Yamaha kit but the Y is an H. so JDH006 I think. I cannot remember what needle or jets I put in it. Also I have done the O-ring mod on it which greatly improved the snappiness when I rip the throttle.
My shorty exhaust has both baffles removed. Its noisy. :D

It appears by the exhaust that it is running really rich. I get black puffs at times. My wife says when she rides behind me it smells strong but she is not sure the difference between fuel and oil smell and I lost my smell years ago so I can't tell myself. I know it burns a little oil when the engine is not fully warmed up as I get a little blue smoke at times too. Probably need rebuilt but my focus is getting the jetting right for now. When it was any leaner it ran terrible.

Symptoms suggest it is still lean. :hmmm: The pipe gets to glowing red pretty quick if the bike is sitting idling (like less than a minute). I was getting decel popping last night on it but I backed the fuel screw out while chopping the throttle and was able to get rid of that.

The bike starts pretty easy. If it is cold after sitting overnight, I can choke it, twist the throttle 2-3 times then kick it and it usually starts on first or second kick.
However, I get terrible gas mileage. Maybe 25mpg calculated. (which leads me to believe rich) I have noticed that when I am in like 3rd gear and I quickly roll on the throttle, at around 3/4 - Full throttle, the power dips off and the engine has to catch up. It just doesn't pull as hard up there. To me, that seems like it is rich and if leaned out should rip all the way to full throttle. Should I richen the low end and back off the main jet? I am thinking up a size on the pilot, and back off the main or increase the leak jet size.

What are your suggestions? Am I just giving it too much full when I roll on fast with the O-ring mod? Do I need to ditch the O-ring and get a stronger AP spring or maybe just increase the size of the leak jet so it bleeds off before it reaches 3/4 throttle? If I leave the throttle pinned it seems like it will catch up (about the time the AP backs off).

I apologize for all the questions. I just know that this bike should really rip. Maybe not like an 07 but should be close. :headscrat
 

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I found this on ebay and thought it might be a cool alternative to a key switch on a supermoto. Seems like it would be great for a WR since it has electric start and can utilize the remote start feature. I am putting it on my YZ for some peace of mind when I park it outside my office. It has an ignition kill, remote start, and a shock sensor. So when I leave the bike unattended, I can hit the lock button and know that there is no way the bike can be started without someone rewiring it. My bike only has a kickstart so I wont be able to use the remote start feature but I may wire that up to open the garage door, or sound the horn or something. Possibilities are endless. For 14 bucks on ebay, you can't really go wrong. It might be fun to remote trigger things that have nothing to do with a motorcycle. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #475
Crash...

I have a few questions for you since you seem to have a wealth of Yamaha knowledge. I am hoping you can help.

I have an '08 YZ450F that is street legal and supermoto'd out. However, this thread has made me want a WR for a few reasons. Easy access airbox, DC power without aftermarket stator, factory lights, battery cradle in airbox, electric start, etc.

My questions are this...

1. will a WR450F subframe with airbox direct fit on the YZ450F frame? If so, will I need to swap seats as well?
2. would my bike benefit from the 07 YZ cam? I previously read where you said something about the 08-09s actually being tamed a bit.
3. I am at around 700-800ft above sea level. I have a JD jet kit (actually for a CRF) but it has the same jets and needles as the Yamaha kit from what I can tell. The part number for the kit is like the Yamaha kit but the Y is an H. so JDH006 I think. I cannot remember what needle or jets I put in it. Also I have done the O-ring mod on it which greatly improved the snappiness when I rip the throttle.
My shorty exhaust has both baffles removed. Its noisy. :D

It appears by the exhaust that it is running really rich. I get black puffs at times. My wife says when she rides behind me it smells strong but she is not sure the difference between fuel and oil smell and I lost my smell years ago so I can't tell myself. I know it burns a little oil when the engine is not fully warmed up as I get a little blue smoke at times too. Probably need rebuilt but my focus is getting the jetting right for now. When it was any leaner it ran terrible.

Symptoms suggest it is still lean. :hmmm: The pipe gets to glowing red pretty quick if the bike is sitting idling (like less than a minute). I was getting decel popping last night on it but I backed the fuel screw out while chopping the throttle and was able to get rid of that.

The bike starts pretty easy. If it is cold after sitting overnight, I can choke it, twist the throttle 2-3 times then kick it and it usually starts on first or second kick.
However, I get terrible gas mileage. Maybe 25mpg calculated. (which leads me to believe rich) I have noticed that when I am in like 3rd gear and I quickly roll on the throttle, at around 3/4 - Full throttle, the power dips off and the engine has to catch up. It just doesn't pull as hard up there. To me, that seems like it is rich and if leaned out should rip all the way to full throttle. Should I richen the low end and back off the main jet? I am thinking up a size on the pilot, and back off the main or increase the leak jet size.

What are your suggestions? Am I just giving it too much full when I roll on fast with the O-ring mod? Do I need to ditch the O-ring and get a stronger AP spring or maybe just increase the size of the leak jet so it bleeds off before it reaches 3/4 throttle? If I leave the throttle pinned it seems like it will catch up (about the time the AP backs off).

I apologize for all the questions. I just know that this bike should really rip. Maybe not like an 07 but should be close. :headscrat

Okay,

1. The subframe from the WR will fit, however you will need to modify the L/H tab on the YZ frame for the WR subframe.

2. You'd need to swap both the intake and exhaust cams from a '07 YZ450, but they'll wake the bike up.

3. I'm not sure if the JD kit that you have will work or not, but most likely I think it would. Undo the o-ring mod and plug the leak jet and install a stiffer AP spring which will eliminate the bog. I would go up two sizes on the pilot jet and see if that doesn't alleviate the glowing header (which indicates a lean condition). Don't make any changes to the main jet unless your bike isn't running as advertised up top.
 

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Okay,

1. The subframe from the WR will fit, however you will need to modify the L/H tab on the YZ frame for the WR subframe.

2. You'd need to swap both the intake and exhaust cams from a '07 YZ450, but they'll wake the bike up.

3. I'm not sure if the JD kit that you have will work or not, but most likely I think it would. Undo the o-ring mod and plug the leak jet and install a stiffer AP spring which will eliminate the bog. I would go up two sizes on the pilot jet and see if that doesn't alleviate the glowing header (which indicates a lean condition). Don't make any changes to the main jet unless your bike isn't running as advertised up top.

So do I need to go up in pilot jet size if the fuel screw is ~1.5-2 turns out and starts good? Also, when you say "PLUG" the leak jet, are you saying fill it with JB Weld or something to completely block it?

NOTE: THIS IS A YZ
I am going to be going through the electrical on my bike because for some reason, when the battery gets too dead, the bike wont start. This shouldn't be an issue if it is truly a drain-only system but it appears that the battery system has been grounded to the frame and I believe is somehow drawing down the power to the CDI. There is no regulator/rectifier on the bike so I assume it still has the stock stator which is simply to run the CDI.

I am sure I can figure it out when I start tearing mine apart but does anyone know if the kill button on these bikes is normally open or normally closed (electrically speaking).

Thanks :)
 

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Discussion Starter #477
So do I need to go up in pilot jet size if the fuel screw is ~1.5-2 turns out and starts good? Also, when you say "PLUG" the leak jet, are you saying fill it with JB Weld or something to completely block it?

NOTE: THIS IS A YZ
I am going to be going through the electrical on my bike because for some reason, when the battery gets too dead, the bike wont start. This shouldn't be an issue if it is truly a drain-only system but it appears that the battery system has been grounded to the frame and I believe is somehow drawing down the power to the CDI. There is no regulator/rectifier on the bike so I assume it still has the stock stator which is simply to run the CDI.

I am sure I can figure it out when I start tearing mine apart but does anyone know if the kill button on these bikes is normally open or normally closed (electrically speaking).

Thanks :)
Go up a pilot size if you're at 3 turns out on the fuel screw.

Plug the leak jet with a set screw:


Check this thread for lights on a YZ:

http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?t=153538
 

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Just an update. So far I have about 7K on my '09 WR450 dual sport (the one that was converted at the beginning of this thread). The only repairs that I have had to do thus far is a R/H clutch cover and a countershaft seal. Once again I ride this bike about 20 miles daily and then take it out for weekend duties as well. Up next will be a little suspension work and an oversize tank for the D/S.

Here's some eye candy:

We hit a trials bike course this weekend. I got a good demo on my skid plate lol:



Here's the twins:



And the Sumo:



Hey Crash,
What tail is that? Oem? Acerbis? UFO? and also do you know if the YZ tails bolt up to the WR or look any different?
Thanks!
EAEA
 

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Discussion Starter #479
Hey Crash,
What tail is that? Oem? Acerbis? UFO? and also do you know if the YZ tails bolt up to the WR or look any different?
Thanks!
EAEA
It's an Acerbis rear fender. The WR fender is different from the YZ so you'll need to stick with the WR.
 

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Valve clearance

What are the typical intake and exhaust shim thickness on the 09 models? I am used to working on the YZ450f and they tend to use 3.00 shims. The 09 WR that I just purchased and tore down to do the top end has shims that mic around 1.70 on the intake and exhaust valves. I bought the bike used so I was wondering if the valves have been shimmed a few times before. I know the WR uses a different cam than the YZ but I wouldn't think the shims would be this far out OEM. Sorry I don't have a manual for the bike yet.
 
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