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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to paint my DRZ wheels and obviously need to take the hub and spokes off first. Only problem is, I've never done it before so I'm looking for a little advice. I don't have the money to replace the hubs with Talons so I'll be re-using my stock hubs, but I would like to replace the stock spokes with black ones. Some How-To advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.:thumbup:
 

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It can be a pain to remove your OEM spokes depending on the age of your bike. I just grabbed an angle grinder and did it the easy way.

I used my OEM hubs w/Excel Takasago rims, so I don't see you having a problem. You can get spokes from factory pro racing or Buchanan spoke and wheel. In all honesty I can't see what the advantages of using Talons over my OEM hubs would be as they are both Aluminum. They do look great though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It can be a pain to remove your OEM spokes depending on the age of your bike. I just grabbed an angle grinder and did it the easy way.

I used my OEM hubs w/Excel Takasago rims, so I don't see you having a problem. You can get spokes from factory pro racing or Buchanan spoke and wheel. In all honesty I can't see what the advantages of using Talons over my OEM hubs would be as they are both Aluminum. They do look great though.
Dumb question: are all the spokes the same length? Do I need to remember where each one goes?

On a side note, I just bought my bike as an '09 leftover a few months ago so removing the spokes shouldn't be a major problem. Do I remove them at the hub or the wheel first?
 

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No, the inner and out spokes are different sizes. I believe the short ones are out and the long ones are in. But, just take now of them when you remove them.

You'll have to remove your tire, use a spoke wrench to remove the nipples. Then you just slide the spoke out the hub. Pretty easy really.

It's putting them back on that is the tricky part. You'll need a truing stand / wheel balancer for that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No, the inner and out spokes are different sizes. I believe the short ones are out and the long ones are in. But, just take now of them when you remove them.

You'll have to remove your tire, use a spoke wrench to remove the nipples. Then you just slide the spoke out the hub. Pretty easy really.

It's putting them back on that is the tricky part. You'll need a truing stand / wheel balancer for that.
Why the trueing stand? Will I need to balance the wheel/hub/spokes prior to putting the tire on or can it be done as an assembly?
 

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It makes tuning the spokes much easier. You could also do it on the bike, but it won't be as accurate.

You balance the wheel after the tire is mounted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Ok so I was at my local dealer today talking about getting my wheels painted and making sure they have a truing stand and all that stuff. The one thing he said was that alot of companies are powder coating now (he's a KTM/Husaberg dealer) and that I should make sure mine aren't powder coated before I paint them. He said the powder coating is more durable and that paint may crack. So does anyone know if the stock DRZ excel wheels are painted or powder coated?
 

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Stock ones should be powder coated black. Probably excel rims. You can pull apart the wheel and once you have the rim, get it sandblasted and then its down to the bare aluminum and its up to you how you want to finish it.

Aluminum can be powder coated or anodized; the powder coating is the better way to go as its more durable and can better handle rock dings or tire irons. You can get them finished matte or glossy.

If you go get them anodized, just make sure when you get them back that you get a UV resistant clear coat of paint put on over top to make sure all that sexyness doesn't fade in the sun or through harsh cleaners and degreasers that may be operating nearby. To end up with more of a chrome finish with your anodized rims, once the original powder coating is sandblasted off, you can polish the rims up first before getting them anodized; then the anodization will just pop...

as for your sand-cast stock hubs, i'd look into pulling them onto a lathe and you can carefully clean up the rough casting marks and smooth them out and as they're also aluminum, you can powder coat or anodize them as well to finish them off differently...

either way, the guys doing your wheels should be able to match any colour. so go wild!


i am a bit biased though; stock hubs lathed, excel rims from my old beast...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Stock ones should be powder coated black. Probably excel rims. You can pull apart the wheel and once you have the rim, get it sandblasted and then its down to the bare aluminum and its up to you how you want to finish it.

Aluminum can be powder coated or anodized; the powder coating is the better way to go as its more durable and can better handle rock dings or tire irons. You can get them finished matte or glossy.

If you go get them anodized, just make sure when you get them back that you get a UV resistant clear coat of paint put on over top to make sure all that sexyness doesn't fade in the sun or through harsh cleaners and degreasers that may be operating nearby. To end up with more of a chrome finish with your anodized rims, once the original powder coating is sandblasted off, you can polish the rims up first before getting them anodized; then the anodization will just pop...

as for your sand-cast stock hubs, i'd look into pulling them onto a lathe and you can carefully clean up the rough casting marks and smooth them out and as they're also aluminum, you can powder coat or anodize them as well to finish them off differently...

either way, the guys doing your wheels should be able to match any colour. so go wild!


i am a bit biased though; stock hubs lathed, excel rims from my old beast...

Right on...that's what I was looking for.

Thank you man:thumbup:
 

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Right on...that's what I was looking for.

Thank you man:thumbup:
No worries.

I started riding SM back before the DRZ SM came out, so if you wanted a supermoto on the street, you had to convert it, build your own wiring harness, etc. There seemed to be a lot more creativity back then, now its just cookie cutter turnkey factory SM bikes for the masses...

I just enjoy seeing a custom build or people doing their own thing. Good luck...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No worries.

I started riding SM back before the DRZ SM came out, so if you wanted a supermoto on the street, you had to convert it, build your own wiring harness, etc. There seemed to be a lot more creativity back then, now its just cookie cutter turnkey factory SM bikes for the masses...

I just enjoy seeing a custom build or people doing their own thing. Good luck...
Yup, I'm doing mine up right for sure. Just found a local guy to powder coat the wheels. I'll probably do the hubs too. I'll post pics when I'm done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
A couple more questions about powder coating my wheels....I only want half of each wheel coated (like the alpina wheels) so how do I prep them? What needs to be done to the spoke hole areas? Is it ok if spray over goes into the tire side of the rim or does that need to be completely covered? Do I re-clearcoat the whole rim or just the new part? Is it possible to powdercoat the hubs as-is? I don't have access to a lathe.
 

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A couple more questions about powder coating my wheels....I only want half of each wheel coated (like the alpina wheels) so how do I prep them? What needs to be done to the spoke hole areas? Is it ok if spray over goes into the tire side of the rim or does that need to be completely covered? Do I re-clearcoat the whole rim or just the new part? Is it possible to powdercoat the hubs as-is? I don't have access to a lathe.

you don't need to clear coat powdercoating; its baked on toughness and doesn't need top coating. you just have to pick a colour and a finish (matte or glossy). as for the prep work, consult this local guy that you just found as per his specific requirements and to see if he can do the alpina 1/2 & 1/2. When you do drop off the parts, take a case of beer over with you on a friday, with your bucket of parts, and you'll be outta there for the friendly price...

you might be able to find a local machine shop to do any lathe work too.

you'll have to pull the bearings out of your hub at a minimum, and i'd degrease everything on your own as an extra step...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
you don't need to clear coat powdercoating; its baked on toughness and doesn't need top coating. you just have to pick a colour and a finish (matte or glossy). as for the prep work, consult this local guy that you just found as per his specific requirements and to see if he can do the alpina 1/2 & 1/2. When you do drop off the parts, take a case of beer over with you on a friday, with your bucket of parts, and you'll be outta there for the friendly price...

you might be able to find a local machine shop to do any lathe work too.

you'll have to pull the bearings out of your hub at a minimum, and i'd degrease everything on your own as an extra step...
Thanks again man....I'll keep you posted as to how it goes. I still have maybe a couple more weeks of riding season left so I'm gonna try and make the best of it THEN the wheels are coming off and getting done. Should look killer if it all works out right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok I'm back.....went to the local powder coater guy and he's concerned about the spoke holes. I guess, how is he going to powder coat the spoke hole areas and not effect the truing process when you put this thing back together? Also, can the stock hubs be powder coated as-is or do they need to be machined smooth? Again, if you are removing material from the hubs, that also has to effect truing. This is turning out to be a major science project that may not work. If I get aftermarket talon hubs, I'm looking at $900 for hubs alone. Looking for a little more advice.
 

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Dude, no reason to go to all that trouble and money just to change color on the wheels. And i think your making a big deal out of a simple thing.lol
I painted the wheels on my Sxv myself, in my basement with the wheel still completely put together. Just cleaned everything off the rim good with brake parts cleaner or alcohol or whatever. Then just taped off everything and went to town. All it takes is a little time and patience. Used some masking tape and some straws for the spokes. and then taped off or take off the rotor and sprocket. Took about 20 min a wheel.

I chose to paint over powdercoat for several reasons.
For one, i didnt want to completely disassemble the wheels. Then pay to have them powdercoated. Then payed 60 a wheel to get them reassembled and trued at the local shop.
Second, When to powdercoat chips from rocks or changing tires or whatever you cant touch it up like you can paint
Third- Im scatterbrained as hell and i change my mind all the time. So i wanted to be able to change the color at will.
Fourth- im a cheap ass. lol. The paint would hold up fine for about two sets of tires. Around 3k miles. When i would change tires, if they needed painted again, id paint em. If i wanted to change the color, then i would, and i could in less than 2 hours and only cost me 6 bucks.

You can ask anyone on here that saw the Sxv. No one believed that i spray painted them. Then they Really didnt believe that i did it with them still together. Just take your time on them and do it right, not just spray bomb em like the old lawn mower out back. lol. You can even leave the factory black coating on the wheels if you want to. Just Use adhesion promoter first as a primer. Then spray 2 or 3 coats of whatever color you choose and whatever design you want to tape off.

Just a suggestion. If you like doing stuff yourself and playing with it and making it your own. Not to mention saving money. If not you can always pay someone else to do it for you.

None of this helps ya on the hubs tho. No way to paint them with the wheel still assembled. And they can be painted or powercoated as they are. The coater will sandblast them and prep them as he feels needed. And powercoating the rims isnt gonna mess anything up with trueing the spokes. The hub may cause some problems if the powder is thick and theres a lot of buildup. But i wouldnt think it should. Good luck on whatever you decide. And we expect pics when your done. :thumbup:
 

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I painted my wheels as well. I started with a set of warp 9's in kit form (disassembled) with blue anodized hubs. I was initially going to have the rims powdercoated in two-tone, but the only coater around here had never done two-tone rims before. They were also backlogged as most PC companies are, so I decided to paint them since I didn't want to wait. Saved a ton of $$$ to as they wanted $3 per spoke to do them in black.

Since I was doing the frame as well, I went with single stage PPG paint. It requires no clearcoat, resists fuel, and is more durable than regular paint. The spokes I just spray bombed with hardware store paint.

I have a glass beading cabinet, so I glass beaded the rims. I then shot a etching primer (bought at home depot) and when it dries, use a fine scotchbrite pad and scuffed the primer. Then I repeated the primer and scuffing once more. Then I masked half of the rim and used fineline tape for a clean tape line (auto parts stores carry this).


Let dry, masked the other side and shot the second color.


Spokes I just sanded with 320 grit, primer process the same as the rims, sprayed black, then clearcoated.

Wheels turned out great!


Just take your time and it will turn out great for under $50.
 

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This is actually quite simple.

Get them powdered or painted - you will have to drill out the hub's spoke hole very slightly to compensate for the thicker spokes and to clean the power or paint out of the holes.

I broke this rim down and had it painted. Had the brake rotor painted too but have not had the rim trued so rotor is waiting.

This is a 12" rim with Topeka Gold rim and hub with Black spokes. (For my fiddy)

I take crap pics so hope you get the idea.

I am out less than $100 for both rims.

Here are two pics:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks guys:thumbup: Those look sweet
 
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