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Discussion Starter #1
1)Removed the dangling melted rear blinker, taped the wires to the bottom of the fender.

2)Attempted to adjust the sag and stripped the threads on the shock trying to get the aluminum rings to move with a screwdriver (there is no spanner wrench that will fit)

3) Noticed some type of oil/gas leaking unto the top of the swingarm just in front of the rear tire ... popped the seat to try and figure out where in the hell it was coming from only to notice the bolt securing the seat was missing.No idea where the fluid is coming from or what road the bolt vibrated off unto.

The good news is a dealer is 3 miles from the house and I have 11 1/2 months warranty left.
 

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Regretefully the shock won't be covered by warranty.
 

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You did loosen the top one(rings on shock) 1st... right???? Then you took the weight off the tires...right?(via place bike on stand).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You did loosen the top one(rings on shock) 1st... right???? Then you took the weight off the tires...right?(via place bike on stand).
Yeah top ring was loose, no I did not have the bike on a stand.Had it on a stand first time I attempted to adjust sag and it did not seem any easier.
 

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The bike should have the tires off the ground to adjust preload and you can not use a swingarm stand or the rear suspension will still have the weight of the bike on it. This is hard to do without frame rails running underneath the motor but that is what needs to be done. If you are creative and careful you can jack it under the pipe with a car jack. I have a bike jack I bought at Sears. It had two long flat pads with rubber cushions. It works great, it even comes with tie straps to keep it from flopping on the floor. If you try to move the adjuster with the full weight of the bike on it, the odds are pretty good that you are going to create problems for yourself.
 

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The bike should have the tires off the ground to adjust preload and you can not use a swingarm stand or the rear suspension will still have the weight of the bike on it. This is hard to do without frame rails running underneath the motor but that is what needs to be done. If you are creative and careful you can jack it under the pipe with a car jack. I have a bike jack I bought at Sears. It had two long flat pads with rubber cushions. It works great, it even comes with tie straps to keep it from flopping on the floor. If you try to move the adjuster with the full weight of the bike on it, the odds are pretty good that you are going to create problems for yourself.
+1 on the Craftsman..its a great stand.
 

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Just an FYI, the Ohlins spanner fits quite nice, not that you can turn it a long way, but it does fit well. I am going spend some time Monday on getting the suspension dialed.
 

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My seat bolt fell off at 700 miles. I used a button head shoulder bolt for mounting Honda sportbike body work and it has more threads on it so you can put a nylon lock nut underneath the bracket. It will never come off again unless I say so..........:D
 

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They are talking about the little bolt that the front tongue of the seat slots into. They vibrate out.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just an FYI, the Ohlins spanner fits quite nice, not that you can turn it a long way, but it does fit well. I am going spend some time Monday on getting the suspension dialed.
Thanks for the info... I used 4 different wrenchs and none would grab after a slight turn.I bet most riders have every single tool that's in the KTM tool bag.WITF does KTM not include a wrench that works in that tiny space instead of that lame ass screwdriver.
 

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I noticed Motostrano has one on their web site, but it looks a little different than the one I have. I bought a fair share of the Ohlins factory service tools for doing road race suspensions and got lucky enough it fits the WP really well.
 

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For those that have lost their front seat mount bolts, check inside your air filter snorkel. My seat mount bolt came out within the first 100 miles. I just happened to be messing around and pulled the snorkel off and found my missing seat mount bolt.
 
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