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I'll make some short comments on these untill Mr.Supermoto writes a longer version.

Did not Ron White say "you can't fix stupid!"??

Gary, grooved or ungrooved tires? And why??
Also could you please explain the real reason for 17 vs. 16.5 front? Heard many different stories and would like one that really makes sense. thanks

Tfunk
Grooved tires when the dirt is loose (like in sweden we ride on gravel) because you need them to dig in to get good grip. If the dirt is hard packed theres no reason to use grooves.

The reason to use 16,5" front tires are that they get a sharper profile with more grip on lean and quicker steering. The outer diameter of a 16,5 vs a 17 is the same. I use the 16,5" because Bridgestone doesnt have any supermoto specific rubber for 17, and I kind of get the tires "for free" from them ;)

Thanks for doing this gary.

i'm not fast but i feel comfortable in all areas of sm riding except doing those flat loose dirt turns. I'm utterly clueless in the best way to aproach and take a simple dirt turn on slicks. i've spent some time with two cones in a dirt field, but i still feel like i'm tip toe-ing around the apex. my wife once said "looked like you were walking it through the dirt section" :D
Do it the same way you do the asphalt! Brake in a straight line and get on the throttle as you lean the bike. Some very tight corners it could be an advantage to slide the rear end around, depends on how tall you are too.

I ride the dirt standing up because it gives me more control.

when you raise your fork tubes your just throwing off the millions of dollars that the yamaha, honda, husky ect put in to the bikes geometry.
The thing about supermoto is that most bikes arent optimized for supermoto. Generally you want the supermoto bike to "stand more on the front wheel" than a MX bike, so lowering it in the clamp isnt a bad idéa. KTM's, husky's and aprilias we change clamps and front suspension, even tho they are race bikes.
 

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when you raise your fork tubes your just throwing off the millions of dollars that the yamaha, honda, husky ect put in to the bikes geometry.
When you raise the fork in the triple, you do in fact change the geometry. Basicly, you are changing the rake, to allow for quicker turn in.

Coming from Road racing we do this all the time, you would be surprised how much you have to move the fork(up or down) just by doing something as simple as switching tire brands.

I am wondering if it is really worth getting the 16.5 front. 17 inch slick and DOT race rubber is available from all tire brands. Where as 16.5 inch tires are harder to come by. Generally speaking, 16.5 slicks for Road racing are hard to come by.

From what I understand is the SuperMoto guys are running the Dunlop 16.5 Road Race slick (which is VERY pricey). I maybe be wrong, That is why I am asking.
 

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From what I understand is the SuperMoto guys are running the Dunlop 16.5 Road Race slick (which is VERY pricey). I maybe be wrong, That is why I am asking.
Theres a tire rule in the world championship that only allows dunlop and a certain amount of tires for each year.

I use bridgestone but they arent cheap either.
 

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Starts, Starts, Starts! Run us through your starting procedure, or steps for a good start on asphalt. Thank you :bowdown:
 

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got this from another site.

4. Lean bike slightly into the corner, and DUMP the clutch, yes, dump it. The rear should now break away reasonably gently and with control. Here, you also maintain some pressure and use of the rear brake, all the way to the apex.
Would you guys achually recommend that?
 

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got this from another site.



Would you guys achually recommend that?
If you are a racer and if you use a slipper clutch, yes. Otherwise, no.
 

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^+1 and when you re-engage the clutch fully during/after the slide.
 

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Shifting

Gary,

I have an issue with shifting that has wreaked havoc on my SM riding since I started. When I'm getting on the gas hard coming out of turns or on straights and the engine is revving out-especially from 3rd to 4th-the tranny will pop out of 4th back to 3rd. It happened on my 04 CRF450 and now on my 07 CRF450. My new bike has had the transmission completely taken apart and all the rough edges cleaned up (in one of those tumbler machines) so that everything is smooth. I still have the problem. When I try to clutch it a little bit more to make sure it goes into gear I sometimes get squirrely because I keep the gas on and the revs up (it gets a little hairy).

Now, I do want to clarify that I have the problem much more with shorter gearing like 13/48 compared to some of the faster tracks where I run like a 14/47 or something like that. I get that the shorter gearing would obviously magnify the issue so...

I'm pretty sure it's a Honda thing. Is there some super secret trick the pros and the super mechanics know about or do I just need to run the taller gearing and change my riding style to adapt to that?

I built my bike for consistency, so it has power but not so much so that it will blow up all the time. If I have to run the taller gearing, i might be losing to other riders coming out of the turns. Anyway, I don't know if this requires a new thread, but I have a sneaking suspicion that I'm not the only person out there with this problem.

It doesn't happen to me in the dirt either, so I know it's got something to do with the extra grip of the asphalt or the transkanuder valving or those muffler bearings Hoffman is always blathering about :D

So, Oh Silent One....HOW DO I FIX THIS?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I honestly think you are just being a little lazy with the shift lever. Sometime you if you do not lift your foot up enough this will happen. I had a hurt ankle and this happened alot. Maybe I am, wrong but I really think that is your issue.

Good Luck....
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
trachy no response to my original post? But you respond to the guy who can't upshift?
Sorry...But I am still trying to learn how to wheelie myself... And I am serious. For me it is about getting around the track fast not doing wheelies or stoppies. So my suggestion is ask your question to Ryan in the stunting section. I am sure he will give you the answer you deserved weeks ago!

Good Luck!
 

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Gary -

I'll trade you wheelie lessons of a spot in one of your classes! :laughingr :rofl: :laughingr :rofl:
 

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would love to get some tips on body positioning in corners. i ride foot out, but i am trying to figure if i should be tipping the bike under me and squaring off my shoulders (so they are more parallel to the ground), or staying to the inside of it and keeping along the line of the bike, if that makes sense. any help is appreciated.

thx, bob
 
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