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Discussion Starter #1
I've searched but I'm not getting what I need. I need to install some HIDs as I do a lot of night time riding, but I don't quite understand the hardware involved. Well, really I'm wondering why folks are paying hundreds of dollars for kits when example like below are selling for $50. I'm sure there are reasons that I'm just not grasping.

Is there a reason that I couldn't use this?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BI-XENON-HID-CONVERSION-KIT-H4-3-For-Motorcycle-Bike_W0QQitemZ290242009667QQihZ019QQcategoryZ32628QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I assume the black box adjacent to the globe is the ballast and the larger box is the relay. Seems to be all that's required. What am I not understanding about all of this?

 

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most of the cheap ones fail. often.
the quality of the parts are bad enough that there are people who receive them already in a non-working condition.
a quality bulb alone, costs as much as this entire kit.

if you want to do it on the cheap, goto a junkyard and pull the parts from a car. then you have quality components, cheap..

if you want more details, and stories behind them, go search some car message boards (good ones with tech info, not idiot ricer-racer boards)
 

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yea, the super cheap ebay specials are very hit and miss. its worth the time and effort to buy a nicer setup and have to do it once. other than that, on the 610 its simple plug and play. on a 450 or 510 the stator needs to be rewound in order to put out enough juice to get the HID to spark up. when the HID lights is when it draws the most (draws less than 35w bulb when running) power and the system needs to be able to give that kick otherwise it will just not work and stress the system big time
 

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Wouldn't the battery provide more than enough current to get a HID to light up? Does the engine even have to be running to get a HID light to come on?
 

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As they say you get what you pay for those will work for sure but the difference is sometimes they will fore right up sometimes they wont. The biggest isue I ahve seen is when you go from high beam to low the low does not kick back on. However I see you only have one ballast therefore you will not have highbeam only low. In order to run the dual burner bulb you need two ballast. I bought a kit that I split with a buddy was $250 for the whole kit so $125 a piece the nice thing about these are the ballast are about as big as a credit card and very thin I was able to stuff them under the tank. That ballast you ahve is quite big it will be alot of extending wires to make the runs you will need to mount the one let alone two so you have high and low beam.
 

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The kind of HID the guy showed has a part of the HID bulb telescope in and out for high and low beam so it needs only one HID ballast per bulb and the bulb stays lit for either high or low beam. No idea if it works well or not but the idea makes at least a little sense.
 

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As they say you get what you pay for those will work for sure but the difference is sometimes they will fore right up sometimes they wont. The biggest isue I ahve seen is when you go from high beam to low the low does not kick back on. However I see you only have one ballast therefore you will not have highbeam only low. In order to run the dual burner bulb you need two ballast. I bought a kit that I split with a buddy was $250 for the whole kit so $125 a piece the nice thing about these are the ballast are about as big as a credit card and very thin I was able to stuff them under the tank. That ballast you ahve is quite big it will be alot of extending wires to make the runs you will need to mount the one let alone two so you have high and low beam.

what kit did you get and where from? because i was going to go the cheap route but i wouldnt want it to fail on me and it just end up to be a waste of time and money
 

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jlk you definetly need the motor running and I acn tell you this I have never seen a set that does high and low beam off one ballast I am not sure I would tryst them. I have mine rigged up with a relay so both low and high filaments come on at the same time when I am on high beam.

juliodc I will get you a link to the site where we got them my buddy bought them he is a car audio installer he does this crap all day.
 

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I dont see it stated but what kind of bike are you going to be doing the HID conversion on?
If you have a 610, its pretty much plug and play. The stator puts out more then enough juice to power the ballast and the ignitor.

If you have a 450/510 theres a little more involved.
1. Need to get a stator rewind ( Baja Designs ) or buy a new stator from Trailtech ( Stator is the same as KTM uses). From what the guys at Baja told me you can get away with a HID on the stock stator but its a gamble. A stator rewind from Baja puts out about 150-160 watts, cost less then 130 and takes about 5 days. You will also need to get a new regulator/rectifier.
2. You can not use the stock 450/510 plastic headlights lens...it will melt. been there done that. You will have to get a glass lens. Theres a few options..Baja designs headlight shell and glass lens. It lacks in the style dept but is functional. You will also have to get the hard mount kit for the shell as well. The rubber band mounts suck, they tear when you you try to pull them around the large fork tube. The KTM exc headlight shell looks like it will work with the baja glass lens ( same lens mount) but im not sure how it mounts to the fork tubes.
3. when I wired mine up, i used a toggle switch to turn the light on and off. doesnt bother me that the stock switch isnt used.

The newer style HID kits do not require a relay. My old hid kit was a wiring nightmare. the kit you have pictured above is the old school type. If you want, I can get you a H4 HId kit in any color temp with a slim balast. Everything is warrantied for 1 year as well. Pm me if you are interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sorry, this is for a 610 so it should just be a matter of mounting the hardware and wiring it up. I thought that perhaps I was missing some fundamental piece of understanding, but it seems that the guys paying hundreds of dollars are doing so for quality reasons.

The kit pictured above retracts or extends the bulb to produce a high or low beam. This setup must rely on the refective properties of the lense housing to project the beam differently, but given the Husky's shitty headlight assembly this might not be very effective.

On the other hand, someone mentioned above that the cheaper kits might give a delay when switching between high and low beams, but given that this setup doesn't switch between arcs but instead retracts or extends the globe, it might not be an issue.

Thanks for the responses everyone. Any more thoughts would be appreciated.
 

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we have done them without fail on every brand of bike.
Here is a 510 with a modded stock stator. No you cant hook it up to the battery. These bikes (450-510) need a different regulator, and also some additional connections to make the rest of the crummy wiring work.

http://www.vancouversupermoto.com/page.php?id=50
Nice, But how are you guys using the stock headlight bucket with the HID and not having it melt?
 

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Baja Designs has never failed me. Mounts easily, has more power than the brights of my new dodge ram, and looks nice too.

Just imagine her with slick tires and not in the mud :lol:

 

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