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Discussion Starter #1
I am new to the supermoto world from sportbikes. I bought an 06 DRZ400SM with a top end kit. Has 17000 miles total 2000 since top end kit was put on by previous owner. I have been riding the bike for 2 wks with no issues. Last Friday while on the highway the bikes buttered one time and then shut off all I found was a pinched vacuum line from the petcock valve to the carburetor I fix this problem got the bike running made it 3 miles down the road and it shut off again I killed the battery trying to crank it over so I replaced the battery yesterday turn the bike on now sometimes it will start and run and then it shuts off or it'll start up and then shut off immediately so if anyone has any ideas everything that I've read in my clymes manual says that it has an issue with Fuel clogged or the air filter is clogged. I did notice that my air filter has some sort of like sticky residue on it I have a carburetor out of the bike right now. I will admit this is my first carbureted bike and I made a stupid mistake of thinking that the prime position on the petcock valve was the primary fuel source so I was running the bike on prime the entire time and I know that the manual said the fuel petcock has to be in the on position in order for a super Moto version bike to run properly. if you have any ideas of things that I can check I am all ears I'm completely new to the super Moto compared to having an gsxr750 before. I do plan on changing all felines and vacuum lines associated with the fuel and air sections of the bike I'm also going to do an oil change and change the spark plug but as I said if you have any ideas as to what I could check or if you've had these experiences before with your own bike please let me know what I can try thank you
 

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The way I do it is :

Check spark : Pull it out the engine and reattach the HT lead. Ground the side of the plug to the case and crank it. You should see a visible spark
Remove any airbox/filters etc and run the carb open just to see if it works with no obstructions
Crank it and feel the exhaust headers. They should warm up instantly if there is any combustion at all as you crank
Check fuel flow from petcock through to carb
Clean carb and jets - Make sure when refitting carb that there are no air leaks especially on the engine side.
Check electrics. Particularly ground connectors. Negative battery terminal to frame, coil to frame are common ones. Check battery connectors are tight.
Check any possible cut out switches. Kill switch malfunction, sidestand switch, clutch lever switch
Test coil, and ignition pickup. Resistance values should be googleable
Check valve clearances
Check compression
Check cam timing

Once you've gone through all that then I dunno! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I went through the bike today. I have fuel air spark voltage all tht good stuff. I have a binding issue. I had the bike running but it continues to shut off. I am pretty certain my starter is binding or my starter clutch gear is locked up. So I'm outside my domain at this point so off to the shop it goes
 

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CHECK YOUR OIL FOR GASOLINE! I would bet money that this is what happened:
Left petcock on prime -> Valve in the carb fails -> gasoline overflows the carb ->gasoline fills the gets into the cylinder slips past the rings and fills your crank case (this would explain it dying after getting hot) -> gasoline fills the cylinder and hydro locks the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
CHECK YOUR OIL FOR GASOLINE! I would bet money that this is what happened:
Left petcock on prime -> Valve in the carb fails -> gasoline overflows the carb ->gasoline fills the gets into the cylinder slips past the rings and fills your crank case (this would explain it dying after getting hot) -> gasoline fills the cylinder and hydro locks the engine.
Thank you for that. That is not something I thought of and I do remember running the bike on prime most of the time. I will go home and change the oil and see what happens. I hope this works
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So bad news. Had gas in the oil and my oil filter was full of magnetic metal. No brass or bronze bearing material which is only a small bit comforting but none the less I know something let go inside the motor. Taking it to a shop Thursday and letting them figure it out. Being its magnetic it makes me feel I could be right about an issue with the one way flywheel for the starting system but at the same time I worried I could have scored the cylinder wall somehow. I had oil so I'm not sure how I could have done that and is a nickel plate silicone carbide top end kit so it's strong but there is always the chance it could have been scored. I'll keep you updated
 
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