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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Quick heads up if you're thinking about (or have) powder coated your stock hubs. I fitted the rear sprocket back up, tightened the bolts/nuts fully, with Loctite and all was good.

I posted the other day thinking I had some valve noise but after some careful checking round the bike, found the rear sprocket loose. Shite... Must be that the PC'ing had compressed and left some slack for the mounting bolts to move a bit. A bit of movement gets a bit more etc etc. X3 of the carrier holes are fine. X3 are ovalled.

Now I know I should have checked the torque of the sprocket bolts but as they were tight and glued, did not think to. Good news is only 3 are slightly ovalled. I've taken the wheel to a precision engineers and they're going to ream out the holes X6 and fit a SS sleeve press fitted and machined to take the M8 bolt to a precise tolerance.

I guess if economics weren't an issue, all hubs would be sleeved.. I've read loads on KTM's chewing out the carriers, so just check those bolts guys, even if thread locked esp after any paint or PC finish is applied :thumbup:

And sorry for no pics, got there and dropped off today but will post the sleeved hub pics when done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No way to mask off the mating surface? helicoil inserts should solve your problem
Schino, yep in hindsight that would have been the way to go. The mounting surface for the sprocket was clean just not the reverse side where the nut sits. Helicoil I think would not give the pull that a nut onto a thread would. Good thought mate but I guess they fix with a clean hole as OE for a reason.

Why KT's I don't know but there's a ton of stuff with ovalled carrier holes there. Maybe they're coated and not anodised like the OE Husky hubs :headscrat
 

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Crap mate, hate to hear that. I actually hand painted my hubs with brake caliper paint back in the dead of winter, yes with a brush. Had my wheels in the house for a week. Wifey didn't like it either:rolleyes:

I guess the shop will custom make the sleeves also. Honestly, it will be better than oem when they get done. Just make sure it's not some gypsie machine shop:rofl::rofl:
 

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For future reference, its bad practice to put thread locker on the sprocket bolts because they can give the appearance of being tight without actually being properly torqued down.

Sorry to hear.
 

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No they won't, the hub isn't threaded. It is a smooth hole with a nut on the back side.
i wasnt aware that it was set up that way, i assumed from the first post that the hole in the hub was messed up and that it was threaded... i deal with 1000's of helicoils a day in aerospace machining business so its my automatic go to fix for all threads :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Crap mate, hate to hear that. I actually hand painted my hubs with brake caliper paint back in the dead of winter, yes with a brush. Had my wheels in the house for a week. Wifey didn't like it either:rolleyes:

I guess the shop will custom make the sleeves also. Honestly, it will be better than oem when they get done. Just make sure it's not some gypsie machine shop:rofl::rofl:
See, women are never happy, you do some painting round the house... :lol:

No pikeys ha ha proper job I'm hoping!! Funny, never knew the place was there but they're only a mile away and have every CNC/engineering tool you could think of. They're reaming the original M8 holes to 9ish mm and press fitting a SS sleeve in each one. I'll put some pics up. Might go for some one-off parts if funds permit :headshake

For future reference, its bad practice to put thread locker on the sprocket bolts because they can give the appearance of being tight without actually being properly torqued down.

Sorry to hear.
It was only the blue med stuff, funny, been fine for best part of a year until hub PC'd. I know what you're saying, the red Loctite stuff is a one fix and leave job. Just need to check them every other ride or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Got my wheel back yesterday and happened to end up in the pub. Tried focusing to post pics last night but it wasn't happening :drunk: :anim_peep: fun trying though :D

So anyway, they've reamed out the OE holes (all) and press fitted a SS sleeve with an almost push fit ID for the bolts. The Talon sprocket was a lousy fit for the OE bolts so they machined/csk that out a bit so the trail of the bolt sits better onto the trail of the sprocket and willl pull down real solid.

It's not cheap and I'm done with spending now :rolleyes: but there are Ti bolts available which should be a bit tougher than the apparently weakish OE ones.

Also thought, re the hub, lots of alloy parts are what we call 'monkey metal'. A ton of melted down stuff re-used. Not graded. Which might explain why some hubs chew out real fast also whereas some last the distance?

Anyhow, job's done, cost me £50.00 which is a hell of a lot cheaper than a new hub :thumbup:





http://www.quaysideprecision.co.uk/da/60771
 

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Looks like they did a quality job and you found a machine shop if you need them later:thumbup: How did you remove the PC from the backside of the hub where the nut tightens? Exacto knife or similar?

I would still use a dab of blue loctite with the Ti bolts. You should not have any more problems now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
What was left was minimal so fitted up some M8 washers and SS nuts/nylocs and all good. I'm going to check those suckers every other ride.
 
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