SuperMoto Junkie banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
today i sold my 2003 suzuki drz400s that i did a 17" wheel swap on. time to save some more chedder and pick up an 09+ honada crf 450 then tard it out. the reason i sold the drz was becuase the weight of the bike made it slow to react. The bike didnt feel very flickable in the twisties, granted i still had oem suspension. Anyway Im really looking forward to get some real power between my legs and a machine that can really carve the corners. Im still contemplating wether to get the 450r or 450x though. I will be using the bike for dirtbiking and tarding, i plan on having two sets of wheels. one dirt one street. I am leaning twards the x model, but i really dont want the extra weight. If i plan on doing streches of 60mph for long distances on the highway will the 450r transmission do that with properly geared front and rear sprokets?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
personally I would go with the x for a couple of reasons. One, you get a lighting coil to run the street lights. Two you get electric start, nothing more embarrassing and annoying than killing it at a stop light when it is hot and having to kick it for five minutes trying to get it started.

The litle bit of extra weight should not be that noticeable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,601 Posts
personally I would go with the x for a couple of reasons. One, you get a lighting coil to run the street lights. Two you get electric start, nothing more embarrassing and annoying than killing it at a stop light when it is hot and having to kick it for five minutes trying to get it started.

The litle bit of extra weight should not be that noticeable.
Wow, kick it for 5 mins? Your CRF must really need a valve adjustment badly. It should kick over 1st or 2nd try even when its hot; mine always did for 3 years on the street. There's something badass about kick starting the bike too, but with a CRF its like you're kicking in someone's front door. Don't get me wrong about the joys of having a magic button do all the work, but 5 mins is about a 4:45 min exaggeration.



I would have spoken about the X's different transmission ratios... Not sure if the X makes enough juice to power all the turnsignals, hi/low/ etc that you'll need so that might need an upgrade to get all the street junk powered properly. You might need a stronger stator or upgrade the flywheel to get better rare earth magnets to pump out more juice...

The CRF also will need a lot of maintenance to run it on the street, just make sure you have the cash for weekly oil changes and a rebuild every 1.5 years or so... but you'll never have more fun. Take routes that don't have long periods where you're idling, as the CRF will overheat easily if its not getting fresh air through its rads... there are other bikes around that make a lot more power than your DRZ did but don't have the maintenance of the CRF...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Wow, kick it for 5 mins? Your CRF must really need a valve adjustment badly. It should kick over 1st or 2nd try even when its hot; mine always did for 3 years on the street. There's something badass about kick starting the bike too, but with a CRF its like you're kicking in someone's front door. Don't get me wrong about the joys of having a magic button do all the work, but 5 mins is about a 4:45 min exaggeration.



I would have spoken about the X's different transmission ratios... Not sure if the X makes enough juice to power all the turnsignals, hi/low/ etc that you'll need so that might need an upgrade to get all the street junk powered properly. You might need a stronger stator or upgrade the flywheel to get better rare earth magnets to pump out more juice...

The CRF also will need a lot of maintenance to run it on the street, just make sure you have the cash for weekly oil changes and a rebuild every 1.5 years or so... but you'll never have more fun. Take routes that don't have long periods where you're idling, as the CRF will overheat easily if its not getting fresh air through its rads... there are other bikes around that make a lot more power than your DRZ did but don't have the maintenance of the CRF...
I was thinking the same thing as the guy, and I really wanted a CRF too,mosty the R, if its not recommended for the roads then which bike do you recommend?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,600 Posts
what about an oil cooler and an extra qt of oil, plus a radiator fan?

I can't imagine the drz not being flickable. Yes its heavier but not by all that much once you add all the lights and things the drz has. I would guess 15-25lbs different depending. What are the new 450mx bikes coming in at like 250 now? My drz S with starter/battery removed is about 290lbs in street trim. the starting system is worth about 10lbs.

Also not sure what you did with your drz but the reason it probably felt heavy is because when you put 17s on an S you get 2.8" of trail in the front end. This gives it a heavy feel. If you right a stock SM with its almost 4" of trail its a different story. I would imagine the CRF is going to have the same issue. Stock it has 4.5" of trail(where the drz is high 3", i think 3.7") when you drop the front you lose about an inch of that. So stock the crf will feel more flickable but i think it has very little to do with the actual weight and more to do with the geometry from the conversion. Im just saying this so you dont get stuck in trying to buy the lightest bike expecting it to be flickable when it could suffer the same fate.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks for the input guys, especially about the trail in the front end. Im sure there were many upgrades that would have made the drz handle better, but the bike just wasnt for me. After much research and thought, i have decided against the crf and am now in the market for a Husaberg FS650.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top