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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
OK, quick report back on my adjustments after 3 days at NJMP:

THe .59 springs and SKF seals worked perfectly! The front is now a bit softer than the rear, but on this bike, that works very well. The front end drops a lot more now under braking, or even just a roll off putting more weight on the front for traction and also reducing trail for quicker steering. The front stays lower under cornering, allowing the bike to finish the turns very well, and even make mid corner corrections without pushing.

Bump compliance was awesome. No more white knuckles as the bike used to skate wide across any mid corner bumps. I couldn't even really feel the bump in T3 this time around.

The results were measurable in lap times. I was able to run long strings of laps in the 1:37.2 range without taking much risk at all. This is a good second or more faster than my previous average pace, and I'm less sore in the shoulders. I used to have to fight the bike a little to finish the corners, now I can just relax. Aaah.

I love it when a plan comes together.

BTW, it was fuggin HOT and HUMID in Jersey this weekend!!! The bike was suffering and I was down 10MPH top speed compared to last time.
 

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OK, quick report back on my adjustments after 3 days at NJMP:

THe .59 springs and SKF seals worked perfectly! The front is now a bit softer than the rear, but on this bike, that works very well. The front end drops a lot more now under braking, or even just a roll off putting more weight on the front for traction and also reducing trail for quicker steering. The front stays lower under cornering, allowing the bike to finish the turns very well, and even make mid corner corrections without pushing.

Bump compliance was awesome. No more white knuckles as the bike used to skate wide across any mid corner bumps. I couldn't even really feel the bump in T3 this time around.

The results were measurable in lap times. I was able to run long strings of laps in the 1:37.2 range without taking much risk at all. This is a good second or more faster than my previous average pace, and I'm less sore in the shoulders. I used to have to fight the bike a little to finish the corners, now I can just relax. Aaah.

I love it when a plan comes together.

BTW, it was fuggin HOT and HUMID in Jersey this weekend!!! The bike was suffering and I was down 10MPH top speed compared to last time.
Thats awesome, just got my skf seals gonna be putting them in. May try the harder springs. Ever find out what you did with your rear spring? Was tightening up the rear collar not enough with the stock spring?
 

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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
The stock spring rear was waaay too soft. With that gas tank out back, it's like you are riding 2 up! (almost). I went a lot stiffer. But my springs won't help you. You've got to try things out for yourself. The stock stuff seems to be way off for pavement riding. Not sure how on earth they settled on that stuff...
 

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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
@ OP - nice line sir :clap:
Thanks! It's the result of many years of hard work and obsession. I'm sure not many people know what it takes to get there. I haven't raced much in the last 5 years, so my pace is a little off, but I can still cut some good lines! Getting this bike (my street bike) set up to do it has been an adventure, and I've learned a lot along the way. I can't wait to try Loudon again with my new settings to compare with how it was back when I recorded that vid. I'm not scheduled to ride there til next year though!
 

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Where can I find drawings of the forks?

And maybe a step by step guide how to rebuild them?

I know about youtube vids and the drawing in this thread, but i'm going to deliver it with the fork so the Yamy dealer can look at them.

Thanks: )
 

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Someone else is doing the work? You might record your clicker settings... but that's it. Just give them the legs, parts and any additional instructions, like the polishing
Record?

Setting it to the softest option?

Is the same procedure on SMC forks as in these videos?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y43k1qFVGW4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9ICr-DOmdk

Can anyone please confirm that it is as easy as in the videos on the SMC forks? I'm considering doing it myself..

Edit: seems like i got fooled by a mix of water and the grease they have used on/between dust cap and oil ring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
Jersey was awesome. NYST will be even better! Bring out your motards for the 18/19 of August. I'm already booked for 1 on 1 both days, but I will have a little free time to goof off motarded.
 

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After a couple of trackdays lately im getting a bit more comfortable pushing the new SMC-R harder. So much fun riding this little bike on track! :D
Here in Sweden most roadracing-tracks are quite small and well suited for the 690's power. Here's a vid of one of my fastest laps around Gelleråsen (so you could get an idea of the track size). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pga1HiFKLeI

Got a tip from a guy racing with his 690 smc to turn all clickers (comp,rebound) to the max and one turn (3-4 clicks) out, trying these setting in the video and as you can see the bike still kind of bounces into corners when pushing the suspension. Other mods done is removed spacer in the fork (1.5mm left), dropped the forks ~13mm.

Im thinking of what to do next to improve handling. Harder shock spring? have to work pretty hard to turn the bike in longer turns. And maby leave the forks to an suspension-tuner to work on it also install SKF-seals since sticktion is quite bad?

Going to try out a bit stickier tires soon also, runnin Dunlop SportSmarts right now. Thinking of getting Pirelli Rosso Corsas next (still use the bike a lot on the street so I dont want a pure race tire like Supercorsa for example).
 

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Discussion Starter · #137 ·
Looks like a fun track! and a nice day in Sweden...or was that at midnight? lol. Maxing out the clickers would be exactly the opposite of what I would advise. I can see you are running wide on many apexes, which is a common problem on these. I would slack off the compression up front all the way until you get some work done. The SKF seals help, dropping the front helps, removing spacers helps, stiffening the rear helps, and reducing the low speed comp internally helps. lowering the bike an inch front and rear as well.

There's no magic bullet with this bike, but the 1+1+1 approach can make the thing handle quite well. It will always be a little tough to change direction at speed because of the high trail numbers. A 40/42mm triple clamp might be the best thing for this bike. I don't think anyone makes one yet...
 

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Looks like a fun track! and a nice day in Sweden...or was that at midnight? lol. Maxing out the clickers would be exactly the opposite of what I would advise. I can see you are running wide on many apexes, which is a common problem on these. I would slack off the compression up front all the way until you get some work done. The SKF seals help, dropping the front helps, removing spacers helps, stiffening the rear helps, and reducing the low speed comp internally helps. lowering the bike an inch front and rear as well.

There's no magic bullet with this bike, but the 1+1+1 approach can make the thing handle quite well. It will always be a little tough to change direction at speed because of the high trail numbers. A 40/42mm triple clamp might be the best thing for this bike. I don't think anyone makes one yet...

A nice day indeed! :)

Im going to lighten up the compression on the forks, I did put a ziptie on the forkleg and it looks like im using almost all if not all travel now! I think an GoPro experiment filming the suspension movement like Groovy did would be intresting.

A question for you Paab, im using the standard shock spring (80N/MM) ~8.15 kg/mm and my rider sag is ~70mm. What springrate would you recommend me to get for the shock?
 

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Discussion Starter · #140 ·
A nice day indeed! :)

Im going to lighten up the compression on the forks, I did put a ziptie on the forkleg and it looks like im using almost all if not all travel now! I think an GoPro experiment filming the suspension movement like Groovy did would be intresting.

A question for you Paab, im using the standard shock spring (80N/MM) ~8.15 kg/mm and my rider sag is ~70mm. What springrate would you recommend me to get for the shock?
Whoa, how much do you weigh? I don't think I could use more than half the travel of the stock front end...

I'm not a suspension guy, so I can't recommend a spring. I think I have an 11 on mine and I weigh 130lbs on a good day.
 
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