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Lesson learned.

Yeah, 122 is the best I've seen. NJMP has a long straight that I BEGIN at about 105-109mph coming out of the kink. It's exciting through the kink, then a bit of a slow recovery of forward momentum all the way to the braking zone where I am just about to hit the rev limiter...
I spend my time, to date, on Shenandoah at Summit point. It's tight enough that even bigger bikes are only getting up to 120 or 130 at the end of the straight. With a good drive (for me) it's getting just past the ton by the time I need to get on the brakes.

What's your gearing btw?
 

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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
I think I'm at 15/40. I'm headed to NJMP for 3 sold out days sun/mon/tues. instructing 1 on 1 sun and mon, then it's a ladies day Tues. :)

I thought NJMP would be too big for the SMC, but not at all. The kink is so much fun that the long straight isn't a bother.

I can run full sessions in the advanced group and not get passed by more than a couple of people. I'm running pretty near race pace though. lol.
 

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I think I'm at 15/40. I'm headed to NJMP for 3 sold out days sun/mon/tues. instructing 1 on 1 sun and mon, then it's a ladies day Tues. :)

I thought NJMP would be too big for the SMC, but not at all. The kink is so much fun that the long straight isn't a bother.

I can run full sessions in the advanced group and not get passed by more than a couple of people. I'm running pretty near race pace though. lol.
Crazy, i think im at stock 16/42? and its pushing it at 100. How are you hitting 120! When does the rev limiter actually kick in?

Also which rear shock did you end up getting? I imagine tightening the rear wasn't enough and took away most of the shocks length if done to much?
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Rev limiter kicks in around 8,800rpms? The stock gearing might be too tall to pull you to redline in 6th. Go to a 15 in front and it will keep accelerating in 6th. I only weigh 126 and I tuck one arm behind my back for aero. :lol:
 

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Rev limiter kicks in around 8,800rpms? The stock gearing might be too tall to pull you to redline in 6th. Go to a 15 in front and it will keep accelerating in 6th. I only weigh 126 and I tuck one arm behind my back for aero. :lol:
Crazy! I have a 15 so ill throw it back on. Maybe drop 2 teeth in the rear

I'm thinking of getting a stiffer rear for obvious reasons. I think the stock is 85? Which did you go with?
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
I can't remember, but it's crazy, like an 11, or even 13!!! I'm not jumping this thing though, just smooth, fast pavement. I have lowered my suspension internally 1" as well. I'm getting stoked for 3 HOT days in Jersey. The hotter the better in my book! These lightweight bikes can't really overheat a tire, so more temp equals better grip and feel. :coffee:
 

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I can't remember, but it's crazy, like an 11, or even 13!!! I'm not jumping this thing though, just smooth, fast pavement. I have lowered my suspension internally 1" as well. I'm getting stoked for 3 HOT days in Jersey. The hotter the better in my book! These lightweight bikes can't really overheat a tire, so more temp equals better grip and feel. :coffee:

I have been wanting to lower the rear, but figured it would just make matters worse with making the bike unbalanced and front lighter. Did you use the Koubalink for the rear? and cut a inch or so off your fork tubes? I really want to get this bike lower, something more around my old husky 610.
If you ever find out what spring you used id be interested to know :) thanks for all your info, unfortunately the 690 just needs a lot of love before shes race ready!
 

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Okey, then my forks started leaking.....

What do you recommend me to do?

Full service or change the sealing rings only?

09 SMC with 6000 km on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
I have been wanting to lower the rear, but figured it would just make matters worse with making the bike unbalanced and front lighter. Did you use the Koubalink for the rear? and cut a inch or so off your fork tubes? I really want to get this bike lower, something more around my old husky 610.
If you ever find out what spring you used id be interested to know :) thanks for all your info, unfortunately the 690 just needs a lot of love before shes race ready!
Definitely do NOT lower the rear without lowering the front. My suspension guy lowered mine internally with spacers. You don't have to cut anything. I've never done that part, so don't know much about it. Kept the stock link. I'm not sure about the kouba.
 

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Great thread - Paab great video- you are Definitely hauling ass -

this is how I lowered my Yamaha WR 450 - should be similar mod on KTM -
I lowered WR because I have short legs --F/R lowered same amount - lowering bike did not effect handling -

also installed much lighter springs F/R - changed F/R suspension oil to Maxima 5 wt -
I use for fast street and track - dont jump the bike much -

Used a gopro cam mounted under bike on skid plate to dial in suspension -(to see how much time the tire left contact with road )
defiantly the easiest way to See what is causing handling problems - ( set cam to 60 frames per second )
with stock suspension tires were in the air a lot over ripples /small bumps = bad front end push - rear tire sliding out -

dampening clickers set to lightest dampening with out getting bounce - no valving changes -

after dialing in suspension tires are glued to pavement almost zero air time now-
tire wear is cut in half -good wear patter on tires -
(stock suspension tires had bad cupping and hitting speed bumps/pot holes hurt my wrists )

Bike now goes where I point it -
much harder to break tires loose when leaned /turning or skidding tires when braking-
took a lot of time to get suspension lowered and dialed in but was well worth it -
Have put about 800 miles on bike after mods completed -

http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?136439-Fork-Shortening&highlight=fork+lowering
 

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Definitely do NOT lower the rear without lowering the front. My suspension guy lowered mine internally with spacers. You don't have to cut anything. I've never done that part, so don't know much about it. Kept the stock link. I'm not sure about the kouba.
interesting, so he kept the stock rear link? Not to sure i follow you, did he lower the rear by taking shims/spacers out of the shock and forks?
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
He lowered front and rear equally by adding? shims to the shocks and forks. These spacers limit the amount the suspension can extend, effectively lowering the bike. Stock linkage on the bike.

We then had to source shorter springs to get the desired preload as the stock lengths would be automatically under 25mm EXTRA preload. We shot for 5-10mm max preload with the suspension off the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
I didn't do this so I could touch my feet, I did it for handling reasons. I really felt the bike was too stretched out at max lean to provide any front end feel, and possibly enough to cause the forks to bind under side loads. My tuner did the math on the geometry, and suggested no more than 25mm lower. The swing arm angle can't get too flat, or traction out of the corners will be compromised.
 

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Good idea with the GoPro camera, Groovy; takes much of the conjecture and "feel" out of the equation.

I'm on a Duke and don't need to lower the suspension, but I also put my compression damping front and rear to full soft and the bike works much better; it still handles fine and is much more compliant. I had dialed in excessive rider sag in the rear and when I corrected that my steering improved dramatically.

Good idea with the softer springs. That's the place to start for anyone much less than 180 lbs., but hardly anyone does it.
 

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First and cheapest step - try cleaning the oil seal. If that doesn't solve it then new seals are needed. Slavins sells SKF per leg - so an oil and dust seal. You might as well order two sets of seals and both sets of bushings too. No way to really tell how they are until the forks are apart. You'll need the some day. So if not yet, you can hold them for a future rebuild.
 

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Thank yuu :)

Im not a mechanic so Im probably going to send it to a Yamaha dealer.

Would that pose problems, is there any special tools needed?

Nearest KTM dealer is 3 hours away so thats not an option in the middle of the season.

The fork leg with disc on is leaking most. It makes oil rings when I compress the fork, no serious leaking like dripping. Can I drive with it like this ?
 

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Cleaning the seals can be done at home. Google/YouTube should be able to walk you though. There are commercially made 'tools' for it - though one can make your own without much cost or skills.

Replacing the seals and bushings are pretty standard items. If you want and I recommend you get the SKF seals you might need to supply them. A call you to the shop will guide you.

I'd recommend polishing the lower tubes too if they don't do it normally.
 

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Waiting for the rings in the mail now.

What should I do with the fork legs before delivery? Screw the setting all the way out or something?

They're going to change oil too, think they will use Motul sae 5.
 

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Waiting for the rings in the mail now.

What should I do with the fork legs before delivery? Screw the setting all the way out or something?

They're going to change oil too, think they will use Motul sae 5.
Someone else is doing the work? You might record your clicker settings... but that's it. Just give them the legs, parts and any additional instructions, like the polishing
 
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