[earl]

apparently some people on this suite have never looked closely at a dry sump system on a modern race engine, ie; formula atlantic, indy car, ALMS, etc. stainless filter's are inline on the dry sump system in multiple places. it helps before you criticize if you know what you are talking about.

But, you need to understand the level of filtering that each one does.

The 610 for example has two screen filters, and they are not filtering down to 25 microns, you can see thru the SS mesh and they are there for larger particulate matter.

The a/m SS filters use a medical grade SS mesh and filter down to 25 microns. If the mesh gets clogged, then you have no oil flow. If it has a bypass valve, then you have unfiltered oil circulating in your engine.

I use K&N paper filters and buy them from Cycle Gear, they carry them and I buy 8-10 at a time.

I also don't see the point of changing the oil ONLY, it takes all of 5 minutes to replace the 610's PRIMARY oil filter, then I clean the left side screen, and do the right side screen every 3-4 oil/filter changes.

I just changed the oil & filter last Sat and the left side screen was spotless, and the magnetic plug had NADA on it, so the Mobil 1 15W-50 and K&N paper filter are keeping things nice and clean for me. :thumbup:

 

[earl]

I guess to each their own then. for me I dont see any point in buying something over and over when I can buy it once. Yes its a little more expensive but its a one time price. Just as easy to take it out and spray it with Brake Kleen and then blow it off clean. I have had it since the first oil change I have done 4 changes since and also have no metal on the left filter nor on the magnetic plug. So those of you who wish to keep paying for something you dont have too go right ahead.

I sure will!

When the epoxy from your stator flakes off and clogs up your precious 25 micron SS mesh oil filter, and your engine goes KAPOW from oil starvation, please post up some pix of the blown engine & clogged oil filter! :thumbup: