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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody make a reusable stainless-steel one yet, I'm tired of going through these paper ones.
 

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i get the k&n filters for about 5 bucks each and order about six at a time

last time i got it for 35 bucks to my door

do some on line searching there out there cheap

call me stupid-you never seen a race car where they reuse a filter do you.
i wont!

i have this take on oil and fiters
for 10 bucks in oil your crazy not to be anal and change it more often the the man requires
 

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Last time I checked Motorex was way more than 10 bucks and the Scotts filter actually filters out smaller particles than the paper filters. Cleans with solvent and you just blow it off.
 

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If a Scotts style filter out filtered an oem style paper filter, then you would not see every motorcycle manufacteror on the planet using paper oil filters. The sotts filter does outflow a paper element but it does not out filter it. this stuff has been debated for years. Some very expensive race engines do use a scotts style filter but those things run one day and are rebuilt the next. I have never seen a filter of comparable size both outflow and out filter another. You have to make a choice.
 

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wow i never knew that. ive been looking too but since ive had my bike 9k miles on it today ive only changed the oil filter 3 or 4 times... its not that bad, though i havent gotten the costco supply of filters like pea, i do get raped with buying one at a time at my local husky dealer... i hate that place.
 

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with 3-500 miles oil changes like on the 510 it may be worth it to buy the scott filter for the long run, like the very long run. Thoese fuckers are expensive! I had it in my 510, and never could tell if it was dirty or not. never found anything in it. I just sprayed it brake clean, but apperantly to truely clean it you need an ultrasonic cleaner, like the one for jewlery.

Goose, dont get one, a big waste of money, especialy with the 1k miles plus intervals of the 610. Plus yeah, it doesnt filter as well as the paper. If the stock husky one was like 30 bux or mare then it would be worth it but there cheap, like 5 bux...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I hear ya about the Scotts being too expensive and not as good as paper. The paper ones aren't breaking the bank, it's just a pain when I go to change my oil, get ready to refill so I can ride and realize I don't have anymore filters lying around. I have a SS reusable one in my YZ and got use to only stocking oil in my shop and not filters. I'll buy a case of 'em and stick it in the corner. :lol:
 

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reuseable filter.

apparently some people on this suite have never looked closely at a dry sump system on a modern race engine, ie; formula atlantic, indy car, ALMS, etc. stainless filter's are inline on the dry sump system in multiple places. it helps before you criticize if you know what you are talking about. stainless fuel and oil filters are also used in military aircraft. the reason paper filter filters are made is so they can sell you more filters. the money at a dealership is made selling part's, and the service dept, not on the bike. :clap::hmmm::bike:
 

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apparently some people on this suite have never looked closely at a dry sump system on a modern race engine, ie; formula atlantic, indy car, ALMS, etc. stainless filter's are inline on the dry sump system in multiple places. it helps before you criticize if you know what you are talking about.
But, you need to understand the level of filtering that each one does.

The 610 for example has two screen filters, and they are not filtering down to 25 microns, you can see thru the SS mesh and they are there for larger particulate matter.

The a/m SS filters use a medical grade SS mesh and filter down to 25 microns. If the mesh gets clogged, then you have no oil flow. If it has a bypass valve, then you have unfiltered oil circulating in your engine.

I use K&N paper filters and buy them from Cycle Gear, they carry them and I buy 8-10 at a time.

I also don't see the point of changing the oil ONLY, it takes all of 5 minutes to replace the 610's PRIMARY oil filter, then I clean the left side screen, and do the right side screen every 3-4 oil/filter changes.

I just changed the oil & filter last Sat and the left side screen was spotless, and the magnetic plug had NADA on it, so the Mobil 1 15W-50 and K&N paper filter are keeping things nice and clean for me. :thumbup:
 

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I guess to each their own then. for me I dont see any point in buying something over and over when I can buy it once. Yes its a little more expensive but its a one time price. Just as easy to take it out and spray it with Brake Kleen and then blow it off clean. I have had it since the first oil change I have done 4 changes since and also have no metal on the left filter nor on the magnetic plug. So those of you who wish to keep paying for something you dont have too go right ahead.
 

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I guess to each their own then. for me I dont see any point in buying something over and over when I can buy it once. Yes its a little more expensive but its a one time price. Just as easy to take it out and spray it with Brake Kleen and then blow it off clean. I have had it since the first oil change I have done 4 changes since and also have no metal on the left filter nor on the magnetic plug. So those of you who wish to keep paying for something you dont have too go right ahead.
I sure will! :)

When the epoxy from your stator flakes off and clogs up your precious 25 micron SS mesh oil filter, and your engine goes KAPOW from oil starvation, please post up some pix of the blown engine & clogged oil filter! :thumbup:
 

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Doubt very highly that will ever happen its not like these are a new product and if there were issues as you state Im sure they would no longer sell them. However if you are correct time for a big bore kit :thumbup:
 

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I used a Scotts SS for over 15,000 miles on my DRZ and I ran that poor bike hard - never a problem.

One of the 1st things I bought for my 610.

Hate paying dealer prices for a filter that should cost a couple of dollars.
 

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The leftside double bag filter gets the larger nasty stuff from the flywheel and gearbox since its located at the bottom of the engine. Then, there is the magnetic plug that catches the fine metallic particles settling to the bottom. The oil filter (located higher up on the engine) is catching the fine particles that come off from the clutch plates and recirculating oil back to the oil pump. For me, this is where you want a 35 micron stainless filter. It's the final filter of the oil. The primary work is being done by the double bag filter on the left side and assisted by the drain plug. There should be no epoxy or large flakes found in the oil filter unless the bags filters were incorrectly installed or broken.
 

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I just switched from Repsol 10w-50 to Spectro full synth. 15w-50. Engine sound a lot quieter and smoother and the clutch is easier to get into neutral. Using Hi Flo 154 filter.
 
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