SuperMoto Junkie banner
1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
658 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All these guys have so much jetting and other tech knowledge, that when I pick up my bike this weekend, I know excatly where to start. Reminds me of the old days on labusas.org when people started making their own TRE"S and how to best hook up a radar screamer and Valetine 1. Figured since I already had it organized in a text doc I would poost it up. Most of the guys post here anyhow. Hope no one minds. I just cut and pasted alot of good things, I stopped on the TPS topic after a page of text......too much info there I think. Sounds like a EURO 3 standard thing

HERE GOES

SMOG REMOVAL

Yup, it's history. Pretty easy to do.
Disconnect the carb vent lines/fuel lines and remove the tank and the headlight unit. Take a look at what goes where... where the hoses go.
Remove the manifold that is zip tied by the ignition switch
Remove the small cannister attached to the lower triple
Disconnect the hoses that connect to the pink carb vent lines and reroute the vent hoses
Disconnect the hose from the nipple on the intake side of the head, near the carb boot and plug it up with an automotive vacuum plug
Remove the large cannister and attached hoses.
Install one of those little aluminum no spill fuel vent fittings to the top fuel vent nipple on the tank.
Reinstall the tank and headlight and you're good to go. Don't forget to plug the nipple on the side of the head.
It is a vacuum line and will suck air otherwise.
I routed the top carb vent lines to a location under the seat and used one of the left over T fittings to connect the lower carb vent hoses (not the carb bowl drain line) and installed a filter and one way valve to keep shit out
of the carb. Also rerouted the crankcase vent from the airbox, plugged the hole left in the airbox and capped of the vent hose with a K and N vent filter. Took about 30 minutes to do in total.

STOCK JETTING MODS

I haven't received the Leo Vince yet but I've been planning ahead for a baseline carb setup.
The SM630, while it has a different engine, has the FCR41 carb.
It is setup with a 58 pilot, a 180 main, and the same needle as the 610 (OBDVR)
except it is set at the 5th position rather than the 4th position on the 610.
Mine came with a OBDVR needle, 50 slow fuel, 178 main fuel jet.
After spending a couple of hundred dollars on jets and needles
I ended up with the stock needle clip #4, 52 slow fuel and a
188 main fuel. The stock main air work the best too. Can't remember
the size. All of the work was getting the slow air jet correct.
I ended up adding the adjustable slow air jet to get it right.
Runs great now solid smooth power from 2500 rpm to 8000 rpm.
No stumble at all. I will look for the dyno sheet tonight
Sudco slo jet part no's 012-230 and 012-235 about $12
Hi guys, Thought I would post my jetting results from the weekend.After trying a dozen or so changes I've found that a 52 pilot with air screw out 2 turns and the needle in position 5 runs the best with the stock pipe and the screen left in. Still get a little deceleration stumble but hardly noticeable.

STOCK CAN GUTTING

Before I found this thread I figured out it was the muffler and cut it apart and made my own race muffler out of the shell. Now i find out there is aftermarket for the bike, but its to late. I basicly made a race muffler just like most of the manufacters build, as I do this for a living but with auto drag race applications. Anyways that woke it up a bunch.
And thanks to you all I have a good referance for jetting.
BTW, The stock pipe is actually a stainless muffler within the aluminum tube. The end cap, though rivited on, is welded to the internal muffler. You must drill out the rivits and use a press to seperate them pushing from the intake side. Its on really, really...REALLY very tight. I stuck an upside down 3/4" drive, 1.75" socket and an extension up against the cat coil inside so I wouldn't mar the intake cap. Pressing it out gets harder as you go...
have faith it'll come out. Insulation from between the SS and the Aluminum wads up right before it pops free. Wish I'd taken some pictures... Oh well. Once its apart, you can eithercut out the cat, keep the baffles and press it back together or slice off the endcaps and toss the heavy SS
muffler in the garbage...thats what I did. I then trimmed an inch off the rear of the can, redrilled the rivit holes, and put it back together with a little high temp rtv. No core or wadding inside and actually its not all that loud. I am going to soon add a perferated tube and some ceramic glass so it'll be like a typical straight through pipe. Front wheel pops
up much easier and my assodyno indicates I've made an improvement. Not as clean as a slip on but so far, much cheaper (cost of rivits) and I like that it retains the stock look and Federal approval etching
Also, anyone that has their old stock can and wants to get rid of it, I'll take it. I'd like to try the mod just taking out the cat and do a comparo. Will pay a small fee plus shipping. Thanks

OEM HEAD PIPE DIAMETER

What size are the head pipes?
35mm headpipes and 48mm main pipe, I didn't take the pipe off, these are OD dimensions. The tubing is thin, subtract about 1-2mm.

FCR cARB TUNING FROM FACTORY PRO

http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbkei.html

LEO FULL SYSTEM JETTING REFERENCE

I'm going to go with the 180 main to start.
I may try a JD needle from the 450/510 kit with a 45 pilot, or go up to the 58 pilot and move the clip to the 5th position with the stock needle.
Still have some time to figure this out but the thought of 60+ hp is starting to affect me.

BARRET EXHAUST

I'll post some pics tomorrow (my camera is at home)
As for the sound of the carbon fibre Barret.
Without the baffle/bung/tea strainer installed (circular piece of metal gauze that fits in the end of the pipe) It's quiet. I have no compasrisons with the stock as I have not ridden a SM610 with a stock pipe. Its quieter than my mates 98 SM610 with a staintune pipe (with the baffle installed) Without the baffle the bike is LOUD when your on the throttle.Louder than my mates 98 SM610 withthe staintune without the baffle. Could be rated as slightly offensive to bystanders when your accelerating hard. I was running without the baffle on the street, and felt that I was attracting too much attention, so I insatlled the baffle. As for the performance. Again I have no experience with the stock pipe.
With stock gearing it will stand up off the throttle (rolling it on- not cracking it open) in 2nd easily. I haven't seen what the topend speed is yet but it gets to 130km/hr on the
freeway fairly qulickly on about ~5500 rpm. Craps on my old KLX650R motard. I could up
the front sprocket 1 tooth or drop the rear a couple.
Very fun bike to ride. I use it as a work commuter, cafe racer, weekend warrior and
to pick up my girlfreind from work.

SPARK PLUG 4K STUTTER FIX.........or is it TPS, read on

Something I noticed on my bike that might be causing your stutter... the stock plug cap is
made for a spark plug with a screw on cap. My stock plug did not have this cap on it,
so the connection was not solid. I replaced the stock plug with an NGK iridium CR8EIX
and put a cap on the plug before I even rode it. Don't know if this is the cause of your
problem but it's real easy to check out.
Fattening up the needle a notch or two is worth a try if you're running the stock exhaust
at sea level. Also, check your spark plug. The 610 cames with a plug boot that requires a
screw on cap on your plug. My bike did not come equipped with this cap, might just have
been an isolated case but it's easy to check. The bike will start and run without this cap
but over time, it could cause problems since the spark has to jump the gap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
658 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
MISC CARB FUEL/AIR TALK

Apparently the SM610 has a catalytic converter inside the muffler.
I think I'll need and a Boyesen pump plate for the carb to install as well.
I got the JD kit from the Thumper Talk store. It's for the 450/510. Same carb as the 610,
FCR-MX41. I'm using the Red needle and my bike is running great with this needle. The blue needle was too rich. The Red needle appears to be similar to the stock OBDVR needle. My comparison between the two needles was by eyeball and there are probably some subtle
differences in the taper of the JD needle that are not very noticeable by the naked eye.
OK, installed the Leo Vince full system and made some carb adjustments:
52 pilot
JD Blue Needle 3rd position - this needle is the same length as the OBDVR but is thinner.
(With the stock needle, I would go down to the 4 or 5th position and try a 55 pilot)
185 Main
Boyesen Pump Plate
I left the backfire screen in and kept the airbox lid intact. Bike fired right up and is at least as quiet at start up as the stocker. That all changes when you get on the throttle though. Power is up but I need to fool with the needle and maybe back down to the 50 pilot with the needle I'm running
The Boyesen plate supposedly eliminates the aeration in the accelerator pump that can cause a momentary delay in the squirt when cracking the throttle open. Didn't notice this problem before but I had the plate so I put it on. The FCR MX allows some adjustment of pump squirt timing. Haven't messed with that and I don't think I will need too.
I think I've found my settings - JD Red needle @5th position, 45 pilot, 180 main. Bike carburates very cleanly and throttle response is instantaneous. The husky barks, then it howls!

FUEL PETCOCK LEAK
I've had the fuel petcock leak...2 wires are attached to the petcock one is a ground the other is sealed into the petcock itself. The leak usually comes through the sealant used to seal the wire entering the petcock. It was resolved by JB Weld. My dealer mailed me a new one. So far so good....My head is "sweating"a little fluid, but only after Pushing it a little. I'm glad to hear torquing the head bolt should resolve this...I Love this bike

CLEAN OIL SCREEN

Removed the clutch cover today to clean out the right side screen. It wasn't really necessary since the screen was very clean. In the future, I'll just do the left side screens at every oil change and the right side every 5th oil change or so. Although it was clean, I'm glad I did it. I had lots of crap the first couple of oil changes in the left side screens. Very little if any debris this time. Also checked the torque on the nuts/screws securing the head The front nut under the head needed a little tightening with a 13mm wrench. All the other nuts/screws seemed to be OK. The nuts on top of the right side of the head are 11mm. Hopefully this will prevent some of the leaky head
gaskets I've been hearing about.

JD RED NEEDLE

The JD Red needle appears to be very similar to the stock OBDVR needle. I could probably go back up to a 50 pilot with this needle. I'm getting a little bit of popping on decelleration but it's not bad. I should be able to dial out the popping with the fuel screw. The standard pilot is a 50 so you should be good to go. Just fatten up your needle to the 5th position and stick a 180-185 main jet in and adjust your fuel screw 1.5-2 turns out. This is at sea level. While you're at it, seal the hole in the airbox from the crankcase
breather and put a K&N breather filter on the end of the hose. This will keep oil from getting into your air/fuel mix. There is a backfire screen in the airbox. I didn't want to remove mine until I got the jetting sorted. You might get less intake restriction if you remove it. Don't know what the effect of this would have on jetting... might require a 52 pilot.
Big singles have a tendency to burp through the carb on occassion. Haven't noticed it on my 610 but I figure that backfire screen might be there for a reason. Some of the older big bore huskies would actually blow the carb right off. I'm going to leave the backfire screen in until I get more experience with this bike. I don't want it to burn down while its still new!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
658 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
MIRRORS, CLUTCH LEVER

Installed some dual star mirrors and a ASV Clutch lever/perch with ball bearing pivot. The clutch pull is a lot smoother and easier with this setup
Where did you get those mirrors with the integrated turn signals
www.speedzilla.com

FC 2000

http://performance-design.net/SHOP/indexb.html
149.95
The FC 2000 re-routes the air-flow for the air-jets, from the path of pressure variances & turbulences that it did take, to a much smoother more calibrated & controlled flow to the carb`s Pilot & Main Air-Circuits. It also greatly smoothens the air-flow directly into the carbs main throat. On top of all that, you get instant adjustability to the main & pilot circuits. No disassembly of any kind of the carb to make a adequate amount of adjustability
Over on the ZX-9R forum I frequent the drag racers who know what they're talking about have determined that gismo doesn't do anything—except for one guy who swears that it added 5hp to the rear wheel.
I'm interested but a bit skeptical, especially after seeing Eric's post.
It may be capable of flowing more air but the limiting factor may be the airbox. I'm also trying to verify whether the range of adjustability of the slow and main air needles are within the range of the stock slow and main air jets. I sent the guy an email but haven't heard back yet. I don't mind experimenting but I don't like throwing good money away on stuff that won't work. Besides, the 610 is running great so I'm in no hurry to make more mods.
I've been thinking about putting a Boyesen Quick Shot accelerator pump cover & a Power Now intake on my Keihen. I know a lot of Motorcross guys/mechanics that swear by them. I ordered one of these and installed it over the weekend. I did not do a before/after dyno run but I've got to say that there is a definite improvement in the torque curve. Also, it allows me to fine tune the pilot and main air settings without taking the carb apart. Very easy to install and is very well made. I think that this is a good mod, but
it is important that you start off with good carb settings. It will not compensate for bad jetting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
658 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
TPS ISSUES

Hi Dave, I haven't disconnected the TPS. Could be that some bikes need to have their TPS adjusted. This is done with an ohm meter. Not sure what the values are though. Maybe I'm lucky but my 610 runs clean with no evidence of stuttering anywhere. I'm also running the FC2000 velocity stack which seemed to add a little more low end/mid range punch but that is by the seat of my pants. It makes adjusting the low speed air and main circuits easy
and supposedly flows more air through the carb.SM610 TPS specs:

Throttle Position Sensor checking (TPS)
Set the tester in “Ohm” position then detach the throttle position sensor cable (1) from the main wiring harness. Set the two tester terminals in corrispondence of YELLOW (A) and BLACK (B) cables and check for the correct values (see table).
throttle control grip in CLOSED position - 890-990
throttle control grip in COMPLETELY OPEN position - 3,4÷4,4 K +/-5%
This is from the 610 draft workshop manual.
Also, you will need a tamper proof torx bit - T-25 but better check the size yourself.
http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_9504.htm
Disconnecting the TPS is easy enough and is worth a try to see if it has any effect. I think that the longer term solution is to properly adjust the TPS so it works as intended. I'm going to check the workshop manual to see if it has any specs for the TPS. The specs you've listed along with a sweep test are good for testing a TPS to see if it is good. For adjustment you want to measure reference voltage by back-probing whatever is the reference voltage wire that sends a signal to the ECU.
As a rule of thumb you should see something like .3-.4 volts at closed throttle to something approaching battery voltage at WOT. The trouble is unless we know the reference voltage the TPS should be putting out to run well we got to do some horsing around playing with adjustments to see if changing the reference voltage makes a difference. For example my old K-bike came stock with a reference voltage of .32v at idle and a flat
spot at 1100 rpm. Eventually I got the flat spot to go away by adjusting the TPS so that it sent out .39v as a reference voltage at idle. Personally I think the map is intentionally set funny to pass emissions because some of the DOT OEM emissions tests happen at 1/2 redline rpm which I'm guessing is around 4,500 rpm on these 610s and I'd bet the map is overly advanced at around 4,500 rpm to lean out emissions. By unplugging the TPS the ECU defaults into what is generically called a "limp home mode" which sets the ignition map to a factory baseline that doesn't dynamically change the
ignition map (and fuel map if we were talking about fuel injected engine management systems) based on rpm and desired engine load (how much your kacking the throttle open at any given time). That all said, if the computers are the same, trying out my 510s ECU isn't a bad idea because I'd bet ignition map isn't all that different in these thumpers. The bad thing is
that if it works it may be possible to over-rev the 610 engine because a 510's rev limiter doesn't kick in until something around 10,500—although I've no idea what the 610 redlines at. If the 510s ECU does "fix" the flat spot then we know to really fix the 610 we either need to pump a new map into the stock 610 ECU or get the rpm and TPS signals to "lie" to
the ECU (which is what all those aftermarket inline thingies do).
Some more info on TPS adjustment from KTM talk.
http://ktmtalk.com/index.php?showto...261&hl=tps&st=0
I disconnected the TPS on my 610SM after reading about someone on ThumperTalk solving a missing/stutter issue on a TE610.
My bike did not have a serious problem, just an intermittent miss at around 4500 RPM during constant throttle. Also surging at small throttle openings, mostly noticed in 1st-2ndgear cruising along in slow traffic. Very annoying.
I'm not sure adjusting the TPS (I've owned BMW's) will completely eliminate this problem, I suspect the map is emission oriented.
After disconnecting the TPS I noticed:
No more 4500 rpm miss
No more low rpm surging.
Throttle response is more linear
The engine seems "smoother"
I have noticed no performance penalty, whatever base map is being used doesn't seem to be a "limp-home" type. Power difference? Only a Dyno run would tell for sure.I would be very interested to see the results of a ignition box swap from a 510. I don't think adjusting the TPS is going to do much either because all adjustments to the TPS can do is shove the map forward or back but it cannot change the map. Nevertheless, sometimes adjusting the TPS along with jetting can mask certain drivability issues like in
my old K-bike and countless cars I've tuned up.
Limp home mode is a phrase that just means that the ECU uses assumed values instead of reading the values from sensors. In other words, in limp home mode the ECU is not dynamically interacting with data from its sensors.
I'm not convinced that this intermittant miss or stuttering is inherent to all 610's. My SM610 does not have this annoying behavior. Maybe I'm just unusually lucky. I did spend quite a bit of time checking wiring connections and carb set up before riding it though. Although I re routed a few things and removed the emissions stuff, I did not notice anything all that unusual other than the spark plug connection I mentioned in a prior post.
I disconnected the TPS last night. It's a pain; yep, it's under the tank.
Didn't really help. It seems to idle a bit higher, but the stumble through first gear then anytime I try to hold a constant rpm/speed is still there--if anything, it's a tish worse.
I'm just stumped. Jetting doesn't seem to help as lots of folks have tried that...and that magazine article says they couldn't sort it.
What the hell is this? I hate to take a brand new bike back to the dealer and just sit on the couch while they fiddle with it....
But there's really nothing left to check....
I disagree Jetting is the only thing that fixed mine. Almost 3K mi and it's still running great. I switched the ECM from another model too with no improvement.
Racing CDI - CDI/coil for race use. Adds 2hp to std 570/610 - £225
Maybe this could solve your stumbles!!!!!
www.motosupplies.com.uk
I contacted MotoSupplies and they said that this CDI will NOT fit the '06 SM610SIn Husky's case, they are using a really basic system because they can—but in more fully developed systems such as expensive cars that use crank and cam position sensors, dual O2 sensors, MAP and BAR sensors, rpm, TPS, and mass air flow signals the computer
kicking into limp home mode can be dramatic. Dramatic not because the engineers don't know how to create a base map (the assumed values) that works well but because they
intentionally make the vehicle run stupid so the owner will take it in to get it serviced (thus the term limp home mode).

SM610S WARRANTY ?

I talked to Rob Keith at the Mnpls motorcycle show. He did tell me that the warranty was 6/months with unlimited miles. I know there has been some confusion about the warranty,and 10 minutes earlier my dealer at another booth told me the warranty was one year. He also seemed to indicate that there should be no problem getting anything fixed in that time frame.
I'll be hauling my bike up to the dealership in the next week or so to get my head gasket issue taken care of. Although it isn't really a big job to replace a head gasket on a thumper, I figured I'd let the dealership handle it as long as it is a warranty item.

SM/TE610 - Revised Service ScheduleUpdate: 26/10/05

As part of the ongoing product development and quality assuarance that is carried out by MV Agusta group, it has become apparent that the service schedule as laid out in the ownershandbook for the 2006 model SM610 and TE610 details excessive service requirements. All UK dealers will be advised to follow the revised service schedule as laid out in the SM/TE610 Revised Service Schedule. Any SM/TE610 owners who require a copy of the revised
service schedule should use the 'Contact Us' option on this website to make their request

LUGGAGE RACK

As you can see it actually fits nice and flush atop the rear fender. It also adds another point to grab the bike with. It will be obvious where to drill the holes as you line up the bolts with the frame extension under the fender. You should have two spacers for the front bolts as well as four rubber grommets that you can put in the fender to help hide the rough edges of the hole. The bike should have come with the four bolts as well.
Hint: add some lubricant to the inside of the gromments before trying to seat the rack, otherwise the legs on the rack will want to pull the gromments along with them, disloging them from their position in the hole.
Now where are those saddlebags that Husky has been advertising???

DOES YOUR HEAD HURT YET...........?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
363 Posts
Good work. There is alot of information out there on the bike glad to see your helping the guys that come here looking for it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
I originated a few of those posts on speedzilla (dukepilot) as I went about finding optimal carb settings, etc. A lot of that stuff was trial and error. Spent a couple of days swapping out brass and changing stuff. I'm pretty satisfied with my current setup. Hope that info makes it a little easier for newer owners to get their bikes setup.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
658 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
yeah duke pilot, you had a alot of good info

hey, I am picking my 610 up saturday, seems like alot of you guys rip the smog shit off and rejet for the stock can right after you get home, is that okay or should I wait till my first oil change to pull the smog stuff ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,059 Posts
An FYI: all the Boyesen Quickshot does is eliminate any air in the ac pump making the squirt consistent. You may still need to tune the ac pump for length of shot, the timing of the shot, or volume. I've got a 510 so what I did to my bike probably doesn't apply to 610s.

That said, if these 610s have a bog off of idle that is related to the ac pump there are five things that can be done:

1) Install a leak jet which creates a calibrated leak essentially squirting the ac pump back into the bowl and into the engine.

2) Limit the volume of gas that can fill the ac pump. I used an '05 Honda CRF450 diaphram to do this.

3) Limit the stroke of the ac pump (this requires adding a stop screw).

4) Adjust the timing of the ac pump (pop the black cover off the side of the carb and have at it).

5) Install the Boyesen Quickshot so the ac pump always squirts gas not sometime gas and sometimes gas and air.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Why don't you provide a link to the thread on the Speedzilla forums where all of this info originated? Seems kinda bogus to steal the info and not give any credit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
658 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
zrxchris said:
1. Figured since I already had it organized in a text doc I would poost it up. Most of the guys post here anyhow. Hope no one minds. I just cut and pasted alot of good things, I stopped on the TPS topic after a page of text......too much info there I think. Sounds like a EURO 3 standard thing

Most of the people who's information is sited in this compilation posts here as well. Not everyone knows about speedzilla.
In preparing for my 610, I was getting some reading material from speedzilla and thought, hmmm maybe this is alot of good info, maybe folks on other supermoto forums would like to know it as well. Figured since I had already made a little text file it would be good to share.

did you read the disclaimer on the top ?
In no way do I take credit for any of the info

The speedzilla thread is like 38pgs long.........just trying to help people out.
I guess if you contributed something to that speedzilla thread and feel I have intruded on your turf. Please contact the site admin and have my post deleted.
My apologies to you and yours
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
304 Posts
Well done on the thread

Good job of listing a quick reference for the 610. I am the TPS guy from Thumpertalk, pulled it till I tried the CR8EIX plug and it works better, has a little surge instead of the stumble/cut out before. Will report on fuel milage after a tank as I feel no power gain by seat of the pants. I'll add my fuel light disconnect as our tanks are the same, I have a TE610.

My fuel light was unreliable to say the least and since I hate running out of gas I added a KTM EXC petcock with reserve. I disabled mine. A KTM EXC or Acerbis petcock with a "reserve" will fit right in, add a T connector and run the tank with the left tap closed till she stumbles(low fuel). By then you have probably travelled about 105-128 miles and have exactly 1 US gallon of fuel in reserve, open the left tap and switch the right side to reserve and find a gas station in the next 35-48 miles depending on your right wrist control. This will give you a dependable reserve as even when mine was operating correctly it would light up at almost any time, remove the leak prone wired tap you already have and rid your bike of a few wires,(mine had a unshielded splice between the tank and harness), making it easier to remove/install the tank. Good luck, Jim.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
658 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks jim........speedzilla dave posted the link to the thread on thumpertalk, he did not seem upset. you just don't know what great husky info is on speedizilla cause the board covers so many brands.

I just am lucky to have found all your guys knowledge and it will make my wonership of an SM610 all that sweeter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,059 Posts
zrxchris said:
thanks jim........speedzilla dave posted the link to the thread on thumpertalk, he did not seem upset. you just don't know what great husky info is on speedizilla cause the board covers so many brands.

I just am lucky to have found all your guys knowledge and it will make my wonership of an SM610 all that sweeter.
Buy some of Dave's mirrors for your 610 so Speezilla Dave can keep the lights on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
590 Posts
I just discovered a new feature on my 610 - when riding in a heavy rain, the compression of the seat from you sitting on it forms a nice little bowl, allowing a very cold lagoon to form around your ballsack. And every time you move, your little lagoon dumps down one of you legs and straight into your boot. Then the lagoon reforms with even colder water. Rinse, repeat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,059 Posts
RatMotor said:
I just discovered a new feature on my 610 - when riding in a heavy rain, the compression of the seat from you sitting on it forms a nice little bowl, allowing a very cold lagoon to form around your ballsack. And every time you move, your little lagoon dumps down one of you legs and straight into your boot. Then the lagoon reforms with even colder water. Rinse, repeat.
Husky 610: Now with wading pool!

Bring the kids. :thumbup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
304 Posts
seat

Good seat option from Guts Racing! I have the tall soft version with their gripper cover and now that it has about 1200 miles on it, (street riding), it has broken in quite better than I expected and no pooling! If anyone wants a hard tall foam and a cover I have both new, stapled it on and found it way too stiff for the street. Cover is blue with yellow Husqvarna logo. Pool proof by the way! PM me for info and $. Thanks, Jim.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
658 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I was thinkin' of just getting a sheepskin pad from aerostich to start. Post the link to this guts racing
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top