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Discussion Starter #1
I remember reading about this being done, and became very interested in trying it myself...

So after pulling the velocity stack out of my airbox, I'm a bit stumped... Any pics or threads covering this procedure? I'm usually pretty good at this sort of thing, but I can't really figure out a method that would keep everything air tight... :hmmm:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Excited to try this out... Just waiting on the filter now.The only RTV I had was the copper high temp stuff for exhausts... Looks rad, I think.



The only RTV I had was the copper high temp stuff for exhausts... Looks rad, I think.
 

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Aaron,

Are you going from the RU-1750 to the RU-0830 w/ stock velocity stack? If thats the case, should make for an interesting experiment.

Cheers,
Roy
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Aaron,

Are you going from the RU-1750 to the RU-0830 w/ stock velocity stack? If thats the case, should make for an interesting experiment.

Cheers,
Roy
Yeah, I am. But I'm just riding on the coat tails of THOR450 in the thread referenced above... He noted a better increase of low to mid range over the 1750 filter. I'm hoping to gain the same, plus the added surface area of filter material can't hurt either.
 

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I have the EVOII filter, but I think this is a great solution for the POD filters. Velocity stacks work, that's why every bike has them, and a tuned length to benefit either lower or upper biased power. The SMC's stack is pretty long so it won't really add any upper HP, it should for sure beef up and fatten the lower/mid RPM's power some though.
 

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Nice!! Im also thinking about doing this mod. I currently run the evo 1 lid with the modified evo 1 mapping , great low end power but lacks on top.
Did you have to modifi the velocity stack or add anything to make it work? Why the use or orange sealant?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Nice!! Im also thinking about doing this mod. I currently run the evo 1 lid with the modified evo 1 mapping , great low end power but lacks on top.
Did you have to modifi the velocity stack or add anything to make it work? Why the use or orange sealant?
You can read through that thread posted up top, but that area between the two lines of "orange sealant" is a hard plastic tube I cut to fit over the rubber velocity stack. I trimmed the splines down flush where that sleeve/tube fits over, and sealed it all with RTV Silicone. This is done so you have a large enough diameter and a solid area to clamp the K&N Filter to...

I wish now I had taken more pictures, but once you pull the stack out, it'll all come together.

Oh, and I got the plastic sleeve from a shop vac accessory pack at Home Depot. I can't remember the actual diameter, but looks like 2" to me... It fits snug.
 

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Aaron,

Where you able to use the stock battery in its original location?

Cheers,
Roy
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Aaron,

Where you able to use the stock battery in its original location?

Cheers,
Roy
Yeah, it touches the battery, but just barely, and just touches the bottom of the seat as well... If anything that would all help keep it in place, as when you run a filter like this, the throttle body is no longer supported.

The wiring is a bit tricky, I had to really tuck it down into place, and the quick disconnect of the fuel line was hitting the mesh. I think I'm going to run a longer fuel line, and place an external fuel filter elsewhere, which will rid me of two issues...
 

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It definitely feels better down low. since weather here has been much better iv'e gotten some seat time. I used a piece of 2 inch I/D exhaust pipe though instead of plastic since it was free. This forced me to use filter RA-0600. same specs as the RU-0830 but with a larger diameter mounting flange. I think this variation of pod filter setup should ban the thought of using the ru-1750 from anyone's mind:thumbup:

Mine as well hit the seat and needed some pressure to get it to latch, but after leaving the seat on for a week or 2 the rubber elbows conform or stretch slightly and now the seat goes on smoothly as it did with the airbox.



 

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Great work guys! Aarron from Texas, your right, once you start looking at the disassembled pieces, "it just comes together!" I recently serviced my K&N 830 and while waiting for it to air dry, I threw the 1750 on for a ride. The 830 is better down low, period!! It is not a huge difference but you will notice it!!
 

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I have a question about this modification. I have been reading through a lot of related threads. I ordered my K&N RU-0830. I am sure this is mentioned somewhere and I probably just missed it. The tube for the crankcase breather that goes back to the stock airbox when the airbox is removed what happens to this tube? I thought I read somewhere about using a small vent or crankcase breather filter.
 

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