[08wr250x/08gsxr750]

...Ok so me and good old dad are getting to talking about bike stuff
and hes ramblin' about "back in the day" we'd boil our chains in oil and whatnot stuff...blah blah,
then states that for a good oil change.......

...if you use a "high detergent oil" such as transmission fluid
you can give a mouthwash to the inside of your engine.:headscrat

1.) You drain the old and fill w/ tranny fluid, let the bike sit in the garage and let it run for a while (revving rpm's) then drain this tranny fluid. (it supposed to do wonders)

2.).....then do a regular oil and filter change

-anyone that really knows their stuff agree or disagree?

my only concern is getting foreign particles out of my foreign bike!

 

[albarelli]

:Funny: He said run your bike on ATF fluid instead of oil for a "while" to clean it out.That sounds crazy! Where ear plugs for when it goes bang at the "a while" mark! I think its time to start looking for retirement homes for the old man! jk.

 

[Chase]

The old timers kill me. :thumbup: Don't know about that trick, but my step-dad used to pour water down the carb of his cars on occasion to blow out built up carbon deposits. Which sounds to me like a good way to blow a head gasket.

I think that some of these old-timey tricks may have had some merit 'back in the day', but modern machines and fuels and oils are much better than they were then, and many of these tricks have become un-necessary.

 

[mil]

Heres what I would do. Warm up bike and then shut off. Then drain oil and replace the oil filter. Put the drain plug back in and fill it, button everything up. Loosen the oil pressure bolt and start bike till oil comes out, then tighten. After all that be glad that you didn't do those "old timer" methods and you will have an oil change the RIGHT way. Also Ive never blown up my bikes using this method!:rofl:

 

[apa]

I have not completely replaced the oil but added a Qt of Kerosene to what was in there and ran it to clean the inside. I have done this on cars/trucks and bikes.

This was a trick for Kawasaki VN700/750 Vulcan with hydraulic valve adjusters that would gum up and make loose valve noises. Add Kerosene and run for 5-10 min then change the oil and they would no longer be sticking.

Old School but it works.


.

 

[M Dubya]

I have always run what I consider to be good oil in my bikes; Amsoil, or Mobil 1 Red Cap. I have never had a bottom end failure. I have had some top end failures due to broken valves which had to do with high mileage and had nothing to do with oil. When I have pulled my motors apart, the bottom ends have always been jewel like in appearance. These have been high mileage motors; 60K, 45K, and 40K respectively, that were raced and ridden hard. IMO-there should be no reason to need to "clean" the inside of your motor. By doing so, you risk breaking down oil viscosity and ruining a bearing or bearing surface.

Just change your oil and filter regularly and use decent oil. The inside of your motor will be clean. I am not even a stickler about intervals. Just change it as per the manufacturer recommendations. If you don't put a lot of mileage on your bike, change the oil 2-3 times a year to avoid the oil becoming contaminated from moisture.

 

[sooperxtool]

i think dub has it spot on.

 

[08wr250x/08gsxr750]

Thanks guys, I just read "do not use" any other chemicals due to the slipper clutch relationship too.:thumbup:

A big old "yam bag" slapp' into dad's nuts on this one!

Thanks again, just was curious.

...thats what you guys are here for:clap:

 

[MAVEN]

The ATF engine flush and water carbon cleaning are perfectly valid and trul effective solutions.

ATF flush is just as your dad states. Get engine/oil up to operating temp(read: hot). drain oil. fill with ATF. run engine for "a while"....maybe a minute; just long enough to ensure the ATF fully circulates(I dont recommend revving it ). let engine sit so most of ATF drains into crankcase, drain ATF, fill with oil, change filter. And yeah obviously this could have a detrimental effect on your clutch(highly dependant on your clutch and type of ATF used) but it IS effective on the engine, best to save this for your beater 4 wheeled vehicles.

Water as a carbon cleaner. AWESOME. 100% factual, can be used on any engine, no harmful side effect unless you use so much water that you create massive misfires for extended periods of time or hydrolock engine. Good rule of thumb is that most multicylinder engines running at 1500-200rpm can ingest as much water as you can possibly spray out of typical manual spray bottle(windex, simple green, 409, etc....) singles can take average spritzes from the same bottle. The water vaporizes when it enters the chamber, some of it breaks down into oxygen and hydrogen fueling the fire and the rest of just softens the carbon and helps to blow it off surfaces as the water increases in volume by 1600 times as it vaporises. Still not sold??? google "water injection"

 

[miketegra]

I wouldnt put anything in a motorcycle engine except oil. As M Dubya stated, you risk messing up a bearing. I've worked on bikes with leaky carbs that allowed gas to get down into the oil....bad news for the crank bearings. As also previously stated, you risk contaminating the clutch fiber plates.
If you use a good oil and filter and change it when you are supposed to, there should be no reason to "flush" the engine.
I recommend Yamaha's Ring Free. It's pretty much the only thing we use at the shop as an additive, and you actually put it in the gas.
Another option, albeit expensive, is to drain the old oil, fill with new oil, run for a while, or even ride it up the street a few times, then drain it again, re-fill, and change the filter.

 

[00BRADY00]

Ask a chemist.

http://www.belray.com/consumer/sirtech.fsp