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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Picked up an '06 titled and tagged CRF450X last Tuesday. I drove almost 4 hours to get it and the pics looked good and it started up fine and seemed to run just fine. Ran fine when I stripped it down too.

I checked the valves the other day since it has 39 hours on it and they'd never been checked. There's less than .006" clearance on both the intake and exhast valves because that's the smallest guage I have and it wouldn't fit.

Loaded it up and took it to the Honda dealer because I don't have the ability to replace valves myself and with that little clearance they are too far gone to shim, right?

I've been googling my butt off and it seems that kibblerwhite valves are the way to go? Or TRX valves?

Any ballpark idea of what this is going to cost me to have fixed? I'm sure they will give me an estimate when they get around to it but they said it would be a week before they could even look at it.

I'm trying to prepare myself for the worst. A grand? $750?

Should I go ahead and have a new piston/rings put in while they will have it that far apart? It still has a lot of compression...

TIA
 

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39 hrs and the valves need replaced on a 450X:headscrat What's the spec on the valve clearance? My Husky has been at .004" and just shimmed and rode on. My Berg was a bit tight when I checked them this weekend and adjusted them to spec. Then I rode the piss out of it.

Buy the feeler gauges you need and shim it yourself.
 

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Picked up an '06 titled and tagged CRF450X last Tuesday. I drove almost 4 hours to get it and the pics looked good and it started up fine and seemed to run just fine. Ran fine when I stripped it down too.
TIA
If it started and ran fine I would think it's not a big deal. Get a service manual and do it yourself, it's really not that hard and will save you a ton of money. Probably just need thinner shims to get in spec, no reason to jump to a total rebuild of a bike with 39hsr that starts and runs fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What's the spec on the valve clearance?
.006 +-.001 on the intake and .011 +-.001 on the exhaust.

Granted, the intake could have been cose and my guage not gone through, but the exhaust is definitely way out. .006 wouldn't even slip through.

I have a service manual, but I have the mechanical ability of a water buffalo. Well, I take that back, I can rebuild the top end of a 2 stroke CR no problems, because that's what I'm used to. This is the first overhead cam 4 stroke motor I've ever looked inside of. I had a DRZ for a few months but never checked the valves as I only put 1k miles on it betwen when I bought it and when I sold it. The amount of little parts crammed into such a small space intimidates me, I'll be honest.

The bike is already at the shop. I'll see what they say and take it with a grain of salt. Been using the same shop for 15 years and they've always done me right so I hope that doesn't change.

I'm glad to hear that it might can still be shimmed. By other threads I've read once they get too far outa whack they couldn't be shimmed.

I was thrown off by how they could be out of adjustment and the thing run so good. I only rode it to work and back once, 6 miles each way, on knobbies, but it ran great, started easily and wheelied awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Water buffalo huh? Well just a thought, but are you absolutely sure that the motor was at TDC?
I pulled the crankshaft hole cap and aligned the punch mark with the arrow and double checked that the cam lobes were indeed facing rearward.

So... I think so... :hmmm:
 

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Ya theres no reason to change the valves on the first check and shim. Hot cams makes shim kits and untill you run out of thinner shims through the course of adjusting valves theres no reason to change valves just because.

And from what iv read for shops adjusting valves its usually about 2hrs shop time thats charged so you should base your price on that. But if you already told them the valves are out they may not even bother to check and change them becasue thats what you wanted so at that point ya youll be looking at the 700+ easily for no reason from the sound of it.

z
 

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.006 is the smallest feeler gauge you have? Spend the $4, get the tool you need and know, not guess what is your situation.
 

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Yeah, something doesn't sound right. Intake valves have been known to move on these bikes, but exhausts stay put for a long time.

I went ahead and put TRX intake valves in mine - that was almost 5k miles ago with no issues. Didn't really have any issues with the valves prior, but decided to go ahead and have it done since I bought the bike used and didn't know the history.

If you want to have it done, talk to AS Racing - http://www.asracinginc.com - Won't cost you anywhere near a grand or $750. Think I had everything done on mine for under $400 shipped there and back from FL to CA, and you could eat off it when it came back.

But definitely get some good gauges. I had to order some good german ones because everything I found around me was crap. You *shouldn't* need valves yet unless the previous owner really ragged on that thing and ran w/o an air filter or something.

Piston/rings are probably fine, but watch your oil consumption. Mine was using a lot of oil, so I went ahead and put a TRX piston in it. Was much better afterwards. Not saying that's what you should do, but its been working for me for a while now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah, something doesn't sound right. Intake valves have been known to move on these bikes, but exhausts stay put for a long time.

I went ahead and put TRX intake valves in mine - that was almost 5k miles ago with no issues. Didn't really have any issues with the valves prior, but decided to go ahead and have it done since I bought the bike used and didn't know the history.

If you want to have it done, talk to AS Racing - http://www.asracinginc.com - Won't cost you anywhere near a grand or $750. Think I had everything done on mine for under $400 shipped there and back from FL to CA, and you could eat off it when it came back.

But definitely get some good gauges. I had to order some good german ones because everything I found around me was crap. You *shouldn't* need valves yet unless the previous owner really ragged on that thing and ran w/o an air filter or something.

Piston/rings are probably fine, but watch your oil consumption. Mine was using a lot of oil, so I went ahead and put a TRX piston in it. Was much better afterwards. Not saying that's what you should do, but its been working for me for a while now.
Thanks for the info and the link. :thumbup:

I don't know how the previous owner treated the bike, that's why I wanted to go ahead and get it checked out. He said he just trail rode with his kids and saw very little street time which I believe to a point. You couldn't stand to ride it much on the highway with the knobbies that are currently on there.

The down time doesn't really bother me right now too bad. I'm waiting on my supermoto wheels and tires to be shipped here from Motostrano anyhow. Figured the shop would know more about it than I.

Gonna get some thinner guages as well.
 
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