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Thumper Racing - yes, just do the 610 kit and ask for whatever comp. ratio you desire - Travis can get you anything you want. Tell him Torque Monster sent you and I'm sure he will get you hooked up.
 

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amazing thread! but i must ask... didn't you REALLY just have that mesh on the seat put so you can comfortably air condition your balls when racing?
That's damn funny!

Bergs being a little different have the air cleaner in the middle of the gas tank - normally it is covered up by the seat for dirt riding, the mesh is to get air into to airbox not ball cooling:rofl:
 

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Nice gain in the piston/head combo - looking at your graph it seems to be falling on its face at 7500rpm. You have done the seat mod so I'm sure you have more that enough air to do the job at higher rpm and your pipe combo is not restricting things. I think you motor would like more cam, bet it would pick up even more above 7500rpm if it could get more fuel/air into the motor each stroke.
 

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I'm running a 45mm bored body on my 663 with no shortage of flow from what I can tell, but I don't run a stock cam.

The only reason I suggested the cam was my stock header w/ Akro can, 45mm throttle body - very similiar to the bike in the post flowed just fine.
 

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I had my throttle body bored to 45mm for under $250us dollars and it uses all the stock MAP, TPS, etc. I use the Vortex unit myself and have used them on my last 4 bikes with great success, the owner is MORE than helpful IMO. The Vortex gives you map changes and fueling adjustments with the turn of a screwdriver.

You may check into other brands TB's, don't know if they will put all the parts in the correct places but the Honda CRF uses a 46mm TB if I remember correctly. Maybe it would work?

Till I find that the 45mm one I am using on my 663cc motor is falling short I will stick with it. I don't think it is holding my motor back at all yet but more dyno runs will tell. No mention of the need for anything bigger from the maker of the 663 parts I am using.
 

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I was quoted for nice 20hp increase over stock with 46mm tb, piston/cylinder machining, doma exhaust, dna filter with seat cut and the fully adjustable ecu. Thats more than enough for me if I ever get my hands on at least the throttle body and ecu.
I would like to see this for real, my motor with 100cc more and moderate tuning so far is no where close to this. Your way would have saved me alot of money so lets see you do it. Wierus just did a piston and it add 2-3hp is all. Do you think TB/porting/exhaust/tuning are work another 17-18hp? I use the Vortex program for tuning it does everything I need it to do.
 

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One thing you may want to consider, looking at the motor on the dyno the HP numbers they must give are at the countershaft sprocket vs. all the dyno runs I have seen and it is not many have been rear wheel HP. 56-57hr rear wheel stock seems normal don't know what that measures at the countershaft would be but it would be quite a bit higher there as there is no drive train loss. If you were comparing the stock rear wheel HP number vs the German tuners countershaft numbers it might be possible the the 18-20hp difference but that may still be generous.

I look for someone else to go crazy on the motor and see what can be done, lots of ways to make things work. I'm interested.
 

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Btw do you have a link to the TB work?
I used a company called Injectioneering, some have posted problems with Wade on the internet but my experience was professional and good. Don't know if the internet is the best place to guage things as the whiners seem to out do the good post 10 to 1, deserving or otherwise for just about anything you look up now days. I had mine done in Aug 2011 and the bad posts were from 2010 so maybe he got his act together. Proceed at your own discretion.
 

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Take your cam out and get a hold of Thumper Racing and have it modded would be my suggestion. I have seen the numbers on the cams and they are not that much different, the stockers that is.
 

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Its a shame they didnt alter some of the frame geometry for the FS like they did the old ktm SMRs.
SMR's have always run the same geometry frames as the dirt counterparts - same frames. In 06 they did a cross member right under the front of the engine between the frame tubes and some other minor gussets. I have seen 0 degree and 8 degree KTM triples that would work if that is what you desire, they will be used and rare.

4 degree triple for SM - pretty extreme I would think. This for running a SM on pavement only or would you have an MX dirt section in the lap? I have always wondered what they Computrack guys would say? What sag numbers did they use if you would be nice to share?
 
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