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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My original review
http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?112289-My-Personal-2011-SM-630-Review

I figured it was time to be fair and provide a summarized review of my SM630, AFTER overcoming the performance and weight issues that countered my expectations and spawned a poor review.

Out of the show room I was expecting too much. All of the hype over the 630 being amazing and so much better than the 610's went right to my head and I had an expectation that this bike off the floor is going to kick some supermoto @ss. I know that's a sick state of mind now as A) break-in needs to be completely done and more importantly B) almost any bike off the floor is not going to be a race bike. I know that from all my sportbike fiascos so I'm not sure why I expected the husky to be any different other than I got whisked away to lala land with all of the hype.

Husky did a good job with this bike (aside from the 38T sprocket, I still think that's just ridiculous). But all of the little tweaks and refinements are noticeably lacking when you hop on a 610 and ride around a bit. If you're looking for a solid bike that's going to zip along through town at a hooligan pace the SM630 is an excellent bike. If you want a fire breathing machine to trash the streets and do 2nd gear power wheelies out of corners, then there's some work to be done…

I'll just get right to the goods I put on to start the transformation. I took it in and had a very depressing baseline dyno run done so that I could see where it's at completely stock and what kind of improvements it's making.



1) Full Titanium Leo Vince 2-into-1 Exhaust with an iBeat mapping
a) Dropped 17 pounds
b) Added a tiny bit more HP and Torque

2) MotyDesign 8 Cell Lithium Battery
a) Dropped 9 more pounds

3) 43T Sprocket and Gold Link RK chain
a) Doesn't lug anymore and is a lot smoother on the road
b) It'll actually wheelie without trying now
c) Still does over 100mph, but only by 4mph…

After doing all of that and riding it a bit I had it dyno'd again. Something was still not quite right. The airbox was still pretty much sealed up and I didn't have much faith that the AFR was right.



4) Power Commander V and AutoTune
a) I set the target AFR to 12.8 and the AutoTune did the rest; awesome.

5) Opened the Airbox
a) The silly labyrinth was removed
b) I cut large breathing vents into the airbox lid and installed 42% stainless mesh over them.
c) Cleaned all the OEM air filter oil out of the airbox and filter.





There was a silly amount of a green type of oil on the air filter. I scooped it out of the airbox and ringed it out of the air filter before I even sprayed it down with my UNI air filter cleaner. I then applied the cleaner, massaged it in best I could and rinsed the filter three times and I still didn't remove all of the oil. But I got enough of it that a fourth time would have been a waste of cleaner.

The openings I cut into the airbox lid and removing the air filter sludge made a pretty big difference. The bike can finally breathe and wow can I hear it. It's almost like having an exhaust on the right side of the bike now. Some think it’s a down side but I love how loud the intake is and the very noticeable increase in performance that comes with it.

That’s about when I started to really refine my AFR map and play with the AutoTune. I spent a lot of time figuring out what AFR I wanted and where. I do CAD work for a living and realized that hey all this AFR map is, is a bunch of XYZ coordinates just waiting to be dumped into a spreadsheet, macro run and XYZ points plotted into SolidWorks for my three dimensional viewing pleasure.



Here's some important stuff I think a lot of people need to read. I don't think it is possible to get a perfect AFR map from an AutoTune on a single cylinder bike. Its rich its lean, its rich it's lean and the AutoTune does its best but there are still some pretty steep peaks and valleys due to the nature of the bike. Aside from the super common user errors like not wiring your hardware up correctly or wiring coming undone or breaking I think this is where a lot of negative feedback about the Power Commander and AutoTune comes from. I had my share of frustrating moments trying to figure out why it wasn't working and come to find out they were almost always my fault. But anyway, here's a sample of what the AFR map looked like at 2% throttle as (orange) before and (green) after.



The original was pretty ugly by my standards. It runs pretty good but you can feel some hesitation here and there as well as see that something is off when you look at the AFR map. Your map shouldn't jump around from 230, -43 then back up to 150... That's just a good example of being able to see the cycles of your engine in the AFR map. Inline fours have a much more laminar flow through the exhaust so you don't get this type of surging and the AutoTune works great. The AutoTune still works great you just have to be a little more aware if you want to dial it in just right.

Now for the good stuff; I imported the points into SolidWorks, played connect the dots and voila! A three dimensional map showing me what the original AFR map looks like from any perspective I choose, pretty sweet. Once I had that I then went back and made new optimized curves for each throttle position. I made a couple big boy decisions and did a little pushing and pulling here and there but the objective was to make the map look smooth using a couple of the existing points for a reference.





Wow what a difference did that make. It's much smoother and more responsive now, and all without the AutoTune. It's still on the bike for now but I have disabled it. The only things I need to do now before a final dyno run is adjust the valves and completely remove the AutoTune.

Performance at the track was pretty good in my opinion. I'm not a very good supermoto rider yet but I'm starting to get there. A group of us went to Oregon Raceway Park (ORP) in Grass Valley, OR and had an absolute blast. I completely devastated my left foot peg slider, flipped it around, and devastated the other side. My set of Q2's and both foot peg sliders are completely smoked.

The only issue I had was with the airbox pulling some engine oil. It was dripping out all over and down the swing arm and made a big mess. It had never done that before and I haven't searched the issue at all. But I was assured that it was somewhat normal if you have over filled your bike a tiny bit and rev the hell out of it while it's leaned over pretty far.

<About half way through this video is when the day 2 supermoto riding kicks in. And I apologize for the linking mess if it doesn't work. Stayed up super late trying to get it done and I didn't get the supermoto half looking the way I'd like it to. Standby for a more better video :D>

I was able to get a few good passes in on some mediocre 600 riders but the good riders were difficult to impossible to overtake. The horsepower game came into play and their 100+HP left my 40'something HP in the dust. That is until the next turn came up and I'd catch them and nearly get a pass in then zoom, zoom they were gone again…

After the track day was over the big things I wish I had on the 630 are forks and a shock that’s re-sprung and setup for me. The front end dives like crazy under heavy braking and the back end is all over the place because I've got the spring so tight that there isn't any static sag. But hey, it doesn't sink four inches when I get on it anymore… Other than that it's all minor stuff like levers, pegs, grips and brake pads that I'd like to tweak.

The 630 has been pretty good, once I came back to reality and spent some money. It's got a lot of things the 610 doesn't and some of that is just extra weight but the rest is solid engineering that just makes sense. Two keys for one bike, WTF; glad I don't have to deal with that. Side plastics and seat just pop right off, no sockets needed. I'm starting to like my hydraulic clutch. And the power has been enough to satisfy with the Ti Pipe, Power Commander, AutoTune and gearing change. It'll come right up in 3rd now if you sit back a bit and work the clutch. And that is a long long ways away from where it used to be.

My conclusions are that the SM630 is a great bike, mine was a really expensive financially emotional roller coaster of a bike, but a great bike and I'm very happy with it :thumbup:

 

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nice review, so when are you looking to get it dyno'd again?

I dont understand why it has such little power tbh, mine had ~52 with just a slip on, lamba still connected as well

pleased you love the bike now though! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
As soon as I can get the valves done and an oil change I'll take it in and see what it's doing now.

It could very well be variations in dyno's. I'm sure I could take it to a different shop and get 5 or more horsepower :thumbup:

I've just been using the same guy on the same dyno for consistency in my numbers.
 

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Very cool man!


Ordered mine yesterday. Cant waiiit. Going to get them to do the PU kit before I get it. Just the O2 lambda delete.
 

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This is good stuff. Are you able to save your custom PC map and post it up for download?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yup :thumbup: think people would want it?
 

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For sure. People are always looking for better solutions than what DynoJet can provide, but most of us don't have the technical insight into how to make a proper map. Race shops do this stuff all the time but never release their own maps to the public. If it works, people will want it.
 

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Great write up MA$tER_E :clap: Good to here that your happy with it in the end. Your threads on this topic will solve a lot of head scratching for other 630 owners.

And someone had to be the Ginnie pig.:thumbup:
 

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You have described my experience with the Auto Tune to a "T". I disabled it and re-installed the -0- map on my 2010 SMR510 but the bike felt sluggish. After re-activating the auto tune it instantly felt more powerful and crisper, but that slight surging feel is there at lower throttle positions. Just for an idea, I'd like to see a screenshot of your map to see how you smoothed it out. Also, why did you choose 12.8 instead of the 13.2 that dynojet recommends and has the auto tune set to?
 

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I just looked at your numbers again. Am I seeing that correct? Is your autotune adding 250% fuel in one cell then pulling a -32% in the next in areas? Holly crap, mine is like minus 10 here, minus 8 there, plus 3 or 4 here and there.:headscrat
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I forgot to post my map last light. Yes, it really was going from 250 to -32. When I take it in for the dyno I'll be able to see how their O2 sensor compares to my AutoTune and'll be able to make some adjustments if needed. Unless you run the fancy DynoJet LCD there's really no way to see what your AFR is doing while you ride...
 

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Is that before or after you "smoothed" it out? Those are some whacked numbers. I hillbilly engineered my net-book onto the bike and took a quick ride to watch what it was doing. Pretty cool, but not practical for actual rides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Is that before or after you "smoothed" it out? Those are some whacked numbers. I hillbilly engineered my net-book onto the bike and took a quick ride to watch what it was doing. Pretty cool, but not practical for actual rides.
I thought about doing that very same thing. I have a netbook too and think I could attach it to the bars good enough :D

The pic above with the lines and dimensions is showing what it used to be in ORANGE and what I made it into in GREEN. After the fact I think I need to lean it out a tiny bit. I just picked the high points and smoothed the map from there. Really those high points are compensations from the low points and it should be somewhere between the high and low... I think... I won't touch it though until I can get it in for a dyno. And if its rich I'll know by how much and where.

I went with 12.8 because the guy I use for dyno work has noticed over the years that the big singles tend to perform a little better. If they actually do or not I don't know for sure but I can say that I didn't feel anything amazing when I leaned it out to 13.0 and 13.2
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
My Smoothed AutoTune Generated AFR Map

Guess what I finally got around to doing :thumbup:

Down side is I couldn't get the silly attachments function to work, I guess my file is a failure and doesn't want to be uploaded as a zip, txt or doc file... So, I literally copied and pasted from the PCV software to here so if you have any issues getting this data into the software try pressing Ctrl and F4 at the same time, that should fix it... I have faith you guys will figure it out :D

Oh and as soon as I get my valves and services done I'll dyno it and let you guys know what the dyno says the AFR is doing and how much HP I'm at now. May tweak and re-upload the map based on those results...

Code:
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 25 -5 -5 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 88 -24 -15 -14 -12 0 0 0 0
0 162 -33 -18 -9 -9 4 3 7 16
0 186 -31 -19 -11 -3 17 20 12 24
0 200 -15 -15 -6 -6 17 26 27 25
0 212 -15 -7 -20 -4 4 21 22 26
0 210 -26 -7 -11 -8 -5 17 12 16
0 214 -25 -6 -11 -1 -6 8 11 10
0 224 -15 -9 -14 -9 -14 -3 11 11
0 244 -32 -8 -13 -9 -4 -3 3 9
0 250 20 -16 -12 -15 -8 -1 -2 12
0 242 162 -16 -14 -14 -6 2 -3 3
0 230 182 -15 -8 -15 -3 -5 -3 -3
0 194 200 -15 -12 -17 -8 -3 5 -1
0 150 202 -16 -13 -15 -3 7 5 4
0 130 182 -17 -12 -9 -7 0 9 7
0 110 110 -25 -16 -10 -13 0 12 12
0 92 55 -10 -11 -17 -8 0 12 12
0 76 35 -7 -11 -15 -14 1 14 12
0 35 20 -10 -18 -15 -14 3 10 13
0 20 10 -6 -14 -10 -16 -6 10 11
0 17 7 0 -10 -21 -15 -3 4 11
0 8 2 4 -3 -18 -18 -7 8 10
0 3 2 0 -2 -6 -14 -1 6 8
0 1 -1 0 0 -3 -14 -8 9 6
0 1 0 0 -1 -4 -8 -10 5 3
0 1 0 0 0 -5 -1 -8 0 -4
0 0 0 0 0 0 -6 -7 -4 -4
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 -1 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
:cheers:
 

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As soon as I can get the valves done and an oil change I'll take it in and see what it's doing now.

It could very well be variations in dyno's. I'm sure I could take it to a different shop and get 5 or more horsepower :thumbup:

I've just been using the same guy on the same dyno for consistency in my numbers.
i dont think a dyno will vary by 13hp on a single cylinder, something definitely doesnt seem right :headscrat

i know the dyno that mat who posted above you used is a very tight and accurate run. ive had my 660 tested there showing 56hp, similar to all the other 660/LC4s tested on it. not an exaggerated 60 like some dynos claim.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
what did you do for your plate holder?
I pulled the mud flap and mounted the plate to the little white tail under the tail light. Works pretty well. Made some brackets that go to the grab bar bolts and attached the blinkers there. Looks and works pretty good so far :thumbup:
 

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I pulled the mud flap and mounted the plate to the little white tail under the tail light. Works pretty well. Made some brackets that go to the grab bar bolts and attached the blinkers there. Looks and works pretty good so far :thumbup:
can you post more pics? :thumbup:
 

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OP I read you review of the 630 before I bought it.. 1200 miles after 1.5 months of owning it.. my bike has decat pipes, j d fuel controller, few holes to open the air box and PU kit..

The bike hauls.. ass. It does very well in the canyons.. Plenty of torque, power wheelies in first with ease 2nd gear clutch with no problems,.. I just got a 14t sprocket today.. After decatting the pipes I am not even sure I need it.. Im sure the wheel would come up on 2nd gear on just power alone after the 14t sprocket.. I sold a drzsm a couple years ago after owning it for 3 months and 4k miles; I thought the drz400 would be a perfect sumo if it had 15 more hp and better brakes.. The Husky covered both wants.. I have a liter bike and it sits for now, and I plan on using it for only long trips and track days.. The husky has only 1/3rd of the power of the r1 and I am sure on tight twisties my pace is just as fast if not faster, then I am on the liter bike...

I hope peeps read this will decide.. As of 2011 the 630 is out of production.. I'm sure the heavier 650 with the bmw motor will do just as well.. It's just a tad bit heavier.. But I'll stick to my pure breed Husky.
 
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