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There is a KTM dongle that you can buy that plugs into the bike that saves your TC settings when you switch off/restart the bike, so your ideal ride mode settings stay the same every time you start it up. I haven't bought that dongle, but I might. Traction control is on from when you first turn on the bike if you don't have the dongle, -TC prevents the front coming up, so you have to turn it off to wheelie, although you can hit a speed bump and hit the gas and have the front float up in a wheelie with TC on, although generally TC will kill the wheelie.

To be honest, I turn mine on and off. I use my bike for both commuting and some aggressive evening or weekend rides (been riding supermotos on one wheel since 2005), but in the wet TC is unbelievable, its like you're riding on a dry road, especially when you factor in the new gen 2 ABS, so there is a time and place in my mind for TC. For highway riding I like TC as you get some incredible drive out of turns, where in the past I was getting a healthy amount of wheel spin out of turns- its like maybe 20% more drive at full throttle as it just hooks up, computer does the work, you just focus on the ideal line. For city riding you definitely want it off. I don't do a lot of highway wheelies, most of mine are in the city, hence turning TC off for slower speed and back alley whoops. The 2019 makes a lot of power and just comes up on its own with TC off in every gear, and if you go +2 on the rear it comes up even easier, lol, like on my 2010. On gravel roads TC is crazy with slicks, the tires really really hooks up in loose dirt, super weird.


I don't have the dongle, but I found a quick workaround last week. If you start your bike in neutral with the side stand up, standing next to it, and give it a quick hard shove forwards and tap the front brake at the end of the hard shove, (so that you maybe push the bike like 12-18" forward at most) the ABS warning light turns off (which always lights up at startup), signifying that you can now switch off ABS or TC. So you can now climb on your bike from rest and adjust your gear and then wheelie away, without having to ride, stop, switch off, ride...
The TC must be what keeps my front wheel planted. It has only wheelied ones in first gear when I popped the clutch.
I'm no wheelie person anyway. But I just wondered if it's something wrong since I can just go full throttle and no wheelie.
I have tried going at 40 km/h in second and open fully, wheel stays down.

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
The TC must be what keeps my front wheel planted. It has only wheelied ones in first gear when I popped the clutch.
I'm no wheelie person anyway. But I just wondered if it's something wrong since I can just go full throttle and no wheelie.
I have tried going at 40 km/h in second and open fully, wheel stays down.

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Yes, you're absolutely correct; TC is cutting power to keep your front wheel down. Clutch pops off a speed bump is the only time that I've ever been able to wheelie the bike with TC on.

Try turning it off sometime when you're full of caffeine and warmed up with some riding gear on. Give it a really hard throttle roll on from zero off the line, it will come up in first, it will accelerate hard first and then just start lifting on its own at higher rpm (around middle of the rev range). It comes up smoothly and consistently, no surprises at all, and the bike really just floats in the wind because its so light, especially in the higher gears, its very stable on the rear wheel. The throttle is so precise and crisp and the whole handling and package is so incredibly refined and improved over my 2010 that its just effortless wheelies really, as minute throttle inputs are well received.

I have wheelied in both ride modes too, and I suggest using street mode/1, rather than track mode/2. They both make the same power but the throttle response is far more direct in track/2, and I've actually found that I can hold my front wheel up maybe 25% longer in the street mode/1 probably because I'm no superstar and the electronics are helping me wheelie further by taking the "edge" off of my bad throttle inputs, to smooth things out.

If you really want to turn your 690 into a wheelie machine, I would suggest going +2 on your rear sprocket. Thats all you will need - you lose maybe 12 km/h top speed but it will lift the front at perhaps 1500-2000 rpm lower so city riding becomes pretty fun. (As an aside, don't ever change your front sprocket to anything but official stock KTM, or you will get a seal leak due to the thinner aftermarket front sprockets not putting enough pressure on the 2 seals).

I should mention something that's F'd me up a few times too: Make sure that you keep your left foot away from the quick shifter unless you're trying to shift. Attempting wheelies, I have tagged the lever with my foot when the front first comes up, from having my left foot a little too far forward on the peg, and it will pop the bike out of gear for a moment (it might not change gears though), causing a sudden front drop as your drive cuts to zero, and then it hits hard when it kicks back into gear and you get a good Ronnie Mac head snap. When thinking about bringing up the front just shift the ball of your left foot back an inch on the foot peg and you'll have no issue with popping out of gear from tapping the QS accidentally when it comes up. In higher gears for wheelies, I generally bounce it up more like a stand up wheelie where I'm timing that bounce and tug on the bars with that slightly delayed leg thrust, but without too much bounce or thrust, as the bike wants to do the work for you; I put in a Li-ion battery, so mines at 320 lbs. With 74 hp and 55 ft pounds at that weight, you don't have to use a lot of body English to wrangle the bike into a wheelie, it wants to go on its own, you just have to contain it.

Have fun ;)
 

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Yes, you're absolutely correct; TC is cutting power to keep your front wheel down. Clutch pops off a speed bump is the only time that I've ever been able to wheelie the bike with TC on.

Try turning it off sometime when you're full of caffeine and warmed up with some riding gear on. Give it a really hard throttle roll on from zero off the line, it will come up in first, it will accelerate hard first and then just start lifting on its own at higher rpm (around middle of the rev range). It comes up smoothly and consistently, no surprises at all, and the bike really just floats in the wind because its so light, especially in the higher gears, its very stable on the rear wheel. The throttle is so precise and crisp and the whole handling and package is so incredibly refined and improved over my 2010 that its just effortless wheelies really, as minute throttle inputs are well received.

I have wheelied in both ride modes too, and I suggest using street mode/1, rather than track mode/2. They both make the same power but the throttle response is far more direct in track/2, and I've actually found that I can hold my front wheel up maybe 25% longer in the street mode/1 probably because I'm no superstar and the electronics are helping me wheelie further by taking the "edge" off of my bad throttle inputs, to smooth things out.

I should mention something that's F'd me up a few times too: Make sure that you keep your left foot away from the quick shifter unless you're trying to shift, attempting wheelies, I have tagged the lever with my foot when the front first comes up, from having my left foot a little too far forward on the peg, and it will pop the bike out of gear for a moment (it might not change gears though), causing a sudden front drop as your drive cuts to zero, and then it hits hard when it kicks back into gear and you get a good Ronnie Mac head snap. When thinking about bringing up the front just shift the ball of your left foot back an inch on the foot peg and you'll have no issue with popping out of gear from tapping the QS accidentally when it comes up. In higher gears for wheelies, I generally bounce it up more like a stand up wheelie where I'm timing that bounce and tug on the bars with that slightly delayed leg thrust, but without too much bounce or thrust, as the bike wants to do the work for you; I put in a Li-ion battery, so mines at 320 lbs. With 74 hp and 55 ft pounds at that weight, you don't have to use a lot of body English to wrangle the bike into a wheelie, it wants to go on its own, you just have to contain it.

Have fun ;)
New battery and levers are next in my to do list.
But right now no money after my first fork rebuild on my bike :(


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Discussion Starter #24
Well, if you feel like adding some free pizzazz, there's basically a free tail tidy mod that you can fab that gets rid of the lower. There's a factory blank'd LED plate light hidden in the LED module that you can activate. I modified mine recently, attached is a pic. There's a strong chance that my workplace is getting either a CNC plasma or waterjet machine in the next little while, so there could be some future 690 options on the menu too...
 

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Well, if you feel like adding some free pizzazz, there's basically a free tail tidy mod that you can fab that gets rid of the lower. There's a factory blank'd LED plate light hidden in the LED module that you can activate. I modified mine recently, attached is a pic. There's a strong chance that my workplace is getting either a CNC plasma or waterjet machine in the next little while, so there could be some future 690 options on the menu too...
I have a tail tidy bracket on mine.

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Well, if you feel like adding some free pizzazz, there's basically a free tail tidy mod that you can fab that gets rid of the lower. There's a factory blank'd LED plate light hidden in the LED module that you can activate. I modified mine recently, attached is a pic. There's a strong chance that my workplace is getting either a CNC plasma or waterjet machine in the next little while, so there could be some future 690 options on the menu too...
How did you activate the led?

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