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This isn't the first thread on this subject. The first one I saw was something along the lines of "Tubeless for under $10". I thought the idea was great, so I decided to try it on a set of wheels. Now, between my dad and I, we have 5 sets done with no problems, and will be doing a 6th set before the Summit Point track day on the 24th. With the price of tubes, and the potential for pinch flats or flats from sharp objects or wear from friction inside the tire, tubeless is a lot less hassle in the long run. As far as adjusting spokes... haven't had to do that with any of my sets, so I can't answer that particular question. In the event that tightening becomes necessary, it only takes a minute to dismount the tire and peel the old silicone and tape off. On to pictures and instructions...

Drill your valve stem hole to accept a bolt-in type valve stem. The ones I use are from O'Reilly Auto Parts and are chrome plated steel with a rubber sealing surface. Bolt valve stem in new, larger hole.



Put wheel on a piece of rod in a vise to prep for silicone and tape. Remove rim strip or tape off of nipples. Use brake clean and a rag or paper towels to clean the drop center and nipples. Hit the bead seat area while you are at it, if dirty.



Apply Type 2 Silicone to the nipples in a about a 1" diameter circle. I use GE Window and Door Clear Type 2 Silicone from Lowes. It says "Sun/Freeze Proof" on the tube.



Note the size of the blobs. Doesn't need to be any bigger than that. Make sure you get good coverage.



Put a little around the valve stem for good measure. Just a little!



Take Gorilla Tape and start your wrap in the center of the drop center, over the spokes and silicone, starting in the correct direction so the tag end passes the swingarm last in the direction of travel.. Pictured is a 5" wheel, 4.25" rears and 3.5" fronts will be easier to cover. Do one revolution in the center, one revolution to the left, and one revolution to the right, keeping it in the drop center. When done, cut the tape. NOTE: I ONLY use GORILLA TAPE. It is VERY sticky, and I have found that in normal conditions, it isn't likely to come unwrapped. If it does, the adhesive stays put and the backing comes off. Never seen it come undone more than 6 inches, and it never created a problem. Oh, put the Gorilla Tape on when the silicone is still wet!



Rub down Gorilla Tape well with your hand.



Cut hole through tape for the valve stem. Do more than just a poke with a drill bit, it can and may seal back up partially and make adjusting tire pressure difficult or impossible without removing the core and re-poking the hole. (Shameless plug for one of my CRKT designs doing the cutting :thumbup:)



Mount tire, preferably soon after adding the tape. Theory is, as thought of by Goosedog, that air pressure drives the tape, and thus the silicone, deep into the crevices between the rim, nipples, and spokes before it dries.



Pushed on



Ready to pull around to mount



Once tire is mounted, seat the bead, record pressure, and check pressure with the same gauge the next day if you would like to check for leaks. The method I have been following has been so reliable, I haven't ever had a leak.

Mount it up to your bike and go ride! :bannana:

Word on tire changers: If you change more than a couple sets of tires a year, get one. Harbor Freight sells one that makes a good base for modifying. I wouldn't use it in stock form, but with a little tweaking and some delrin blocks, it can be made into an incredibly useful machine. For $50 and some time, it is very worth it. If you ahve a lathe and a welder, you can use Delrin and steel tubing to make a mount/dismount bar too. I made mine similar to the No-Mar bar. Or, you can buy a bar already made from them. My days of messing with tire irons, rim protectors, and scratches from carelessness are over... not sure how I got along without a changer before. Changes are now done in a minute or less, as opposed to a couple, with 2 people bitching and moaning the whole time. :lol:

Hope this helps some people out, and answers questions or suspicions people have about the process! If you have any questions, post them up.

Gerry
 

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Great Thread. I just came inside pissed off because I pinched my tube. Text my buddy and told him I was going tubless then got on smj. My biggest concern and maybe it shouldn't be one, is the tape coming apart. Anyone had any problems with this? My plan was to buy a 16" bicycle tube and cut it open and the stretch it around the the rim over the gorilla tape. Anyone want to comment on this?
 

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Great Thread. I just came inside pissed off because I pinched my tube. Text my buddy and told him I was going tubless then got on smj. My biggest concern and maybe it shouldn't be one, is the tape coming apart. Anyone had any problems with this? My plan was to buy a 16" bicycle tube and cut it open and the stretch it around the the rim over the gorilla tape. Anyone want to comment on this?
If you read the original tubeless thread, you'll find all manner of bicycle tube applications. I used only Gorilla Tape after the silicone and it always came undone, yes it was wrapped the correct direction. I have well over 20k on my tubeless set up using silicone initially. After the tape fiasco, it causes horrible balance issues, I have resealed all the nipples with Goop. I let 'em get tacky then mount them up, air up, then let 'em set over night. So to answer your question from my point of view, tape is an issue. Don't use it, it will become a problem.

Thanks for the thread.... I'm going to be doing mine here in the next few days (also had it with tubes)....

I am planning to go this route though.....


http://cyb.smugmug.com/gallery/7250813_ZxQA5#465979444_cW2xa


Any thoughts????
I like that one a lot. I have no experience with the "seal all" but my goop only wheels hold up very well. Seems very time consuming letting both compounds set but if it seals and time is no issue, then it works.
 

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top thread cheers guys:thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I used only Gorilla Tape after the silicone and it always came undone, yes it was wrapped the correct direction. After the tape fiasco, it causes horrible balance issues, I have resealed all the nipples with Goop.
I wonder what we are doing differently? Do you ride over 100mph regularly? This really puzzles me. Only on one instance have any of my sets had tape come undone, and it was only for 6 inches. The backing had come off of the adhesive, and the adhesive stayed, so i just cut the small portion of backing off and mounted the new tire. Never had a balance issue with tape or otherwise. I don't balance, and they feel vibration free and stable at 95-100mph. I don't ride that speed a lot, so I wonder if speed is the difference here. :headscrat How many wraps did you do?

I like the goop idea with the other sealer, might try that sometime when I get another set of wheels to do. Had so much luck with this method I haven't found a reason to try anything different, though.
 

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Nice write up Gerry. :thumbup: I did the Goop, and seal all method in the link, but did use tape as well. When my tires show up, I'll let you guys know how it holds up.
 

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I wonder what we are doing differently? Do you ride over 100mph regularly? This really puzzles me. Only on one instance have any of my sets had tape come undone, and it was only for 6 inches. The backing had come off of the adhesive, and the adhesive stayed, so i just cut the small portion of backing off and mounted the new tire. Never had a balance issue with tape or otherwise. I don't balance, and they feel vibration free and stable at 95-100mph. I don't ride that speed a lot, so I wonder if speed is the difference here. :headscrat How many wraps did you do?

I like the goop idea with the other sealer, might try that sometime when I get another set of wheels to do. Had so much luck with this method I haven't found a reason to try anything different, though.
IDK, I do have about 20 min. of 75+ twice a day and I'm in FL so it gets hot in the summer. I did 3 wraps just like you:hmmm: When I changed my back and found the ball of tape, I :headscrat and re-wrapped it. 7 months later I did the front and back, the back was not a complete ball but the front was and I had been noticing an off balance vibe at 70+. So I cleaned the back completely, because it had been sloooowly leaking down every few weeks, and sealed it up with goop. Touched up any suspect nipples up front with goop. After I mounted them up and road I was amazed at how smooth she road.

I don't balance and that front has been there for 4 or 5k and it is still really smooth.

I was not trying to bash, just offering my 2¢ from experience. You did a great service with the pics and process involved:clap:

Whatever tubeless conversion works is great and I can't see ever going back! I'm glad there is a forum to share ideas and methods. Over at ADVrider, those fudgers flipped out at the idea:rolleyes2:
 

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IDK, I do have about 20 min. of 75+ twice a day and I'm in FL so it gets hot in the summer. I did 3 wraps just like you:hmmm: When I changed my back and found the ball of tape, I :headscrat and re-wrapped it. 7 months later I did the front and back, the back was not a complete ball but the front was and I had been noticing an off balance vibe at 70+. So I cleaned the back completely, because it had been sloooowly leaking down every few weeks, and sealed it up with goop. Touched up any suspect nipples up front with goop. After I mounted them up and road I was amazed at how smooth she road.

I don't balance and that front has been there for 4 or 5k and it is still really smooth.

I was not trying to bash, just offering my 2¢ from experience. You did a great service with the pics and process involved:clap:

Whatever tubeless conversion works is great and I can't see ever going back! I'm glad there is a forum to share ideas and methods. Over at ADVrider, those fudgers flipped out at the idea:rolleyes2:
Well, I only did the tape, more to make it look nice than anything, as the article didn't call for anything. Keep in mind, the ADV guys swear by dyna beads too. :lol:
 

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:rofl:
Some do, some don't. The "dyna beads this, dyna beads that" thread is back on the first equipment page.

I have tried them though:anim_peep:
You should have gorilla taped dyna beads inside your Sanford & Son tubeless setup, and you wouldn't have had any issues. :anim_peep: :rofl:
 

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Thanks Gerry...I will be doing mine, next time I have to do a wheel swap.
 

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Mines Done! The only thing I did different is I put a bicycle tube that was smaller than the rim around the gorilla tape to make sure it doesn't come off in the coming cold weather. Gorilla tape looses its bond in cold just so you guys know.
 

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My Talon/Excels had the Talon kit installed in them. I Gorilla taped them for extra tie spoon protection. I Gorilla Super Glued the ends down, and also every 6 inches or so to prevent them from peeling back. So fare it's been 4 months without a problem.
 

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Nice post!
 

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My Talon/Excels had the Talon kit installed in them. I Gorilla taped them for extra tie spoon protection. I Gorilla Super Glued the ends down, and also every 6 inches or so to prevent them from peeling back. So fare it's been 4 months without a problem.
What is the "talon" kit?

I've been considering doing mine with the goop/seal all method, but don't like the fact that it dries hard, could be a mess to clean up/reseal if adjusting of the spokes is needed. The silicone is nice in the fact that you can easily peel it off. :hmmm:
 

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issue w/ ghetto tubeless

I did the ghetto tubeless on my front rim. I am having an air leak at the bead where the rim was welded together.......Any ideas? I tried to put a shitload of pressure in there, but it still leaked at that point.
 
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