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There's way more to jetting than it making the bike able to wheelie. The performance part of it is to make your bike run how it should based off your areas elevation, temperature and humidity. It's not made just to get power gains but usually turns out that way. If you feel your bike isn't running lean or rich then that's your call. It's better to be on the rich side more than lean but jet kits dial your carb in to the correct balance.
 

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There's way more to jetting than it making the bike able to wheelie. The performance part of it is to make your bike run how it should based off your areas elevation, temperature and humidity. It's not made just to get power gains but usually turns out that way. If you feel your bike isn't running lean or rich then that's your call. It's better to be on the rich side more than lean but jet kits dial your carb in to the correct balance.
What about the fiability of the engine? It's more risky and exposed to failures if I jet the carb? I mean if I don't care about the speed and power, it's better or worse to jet?
 

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Jetting your carb to correct settings for your area won't hurt reliability. It'll hurt more if it's running lean. Riding it at redline and not keeping up on maintenance intervals will hurt reliability, not a correctly jetted carb.
 

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Then I'll reconsider jetting the carb at 1000km.

About wheelie...it was the technique ?
If I release the clutch too fast it doesn't wheelie, but if I do it slowly and release it gradually, it's rising right away...still afraid that I could slip the rear brake pedal and rising too much ?

I think it's also the sprocket that could help with doing the wheelies much easy at slow revs.
 

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Question: if I jet the carb, it's a MUST to also change the stock exhaust, or it's ok if I leave the stock exhaust?

I wouldn't pay for a full exhaust system, so I have 3 options:

- leave the stock exhaust
- modify the stock exhaust to make it flow air better
- get an used slip on Termignoni exhaust from a Ducati

What should I do?

Somebody told me that I can't install any slip on exhaust on my bike, I have to get one specially made for my bike, and also that if I modify the stock exhaust I will ruin it, and my bike won't have the same engine stop not power.

Should I forget about the exhaust and do only the carb jetting?
 

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Question: if I jet the carb, it's a MUST to also change the stock exhaust, or it's ok if I leave the stock exhaust?
I wouldn't pay for a full exhaust system, so I have 3 options:
- leave the stock exhaust
- modify the stock exhaust to make it flow air better
- get an used slip on Termignoni exhaust from a Ducati
What should I do?
Somebody told me that I can't install any slip on exhaust on my bike, I have to get one specially made for my bike, and also that if I modify the stock exhaust I will ruin it, and my bike won't have the same engine stop not power.
Should I forget about the exhaust and do only the carb jetting?
Of course it would be better to put that "better" silencer when you jet it. I cannot remember that info other have give for you to this matter.
But this is the right to do it, if you but that better flow silencer, then you need to jet it.

It is soo easy, just buy that correct silencer to that bike, why worries..
If that would be my bike and i would have money, then some place where to get that hole exhaust, i would buy it.
But now days it is soo hard to find that exhaust...Maybe, i dont know, but what i have seen, it looks like it is hard to find those now days.
If you jet it in stock exhaust, it maybe goes too rich, this you should ask how knows this issues better, like your local dyon/tuning, engine manage shop, dealer etc.
Of course that would be better use those parts what is intended for you bike, your bike model. Then you can get better reasult. You can use that stock silencer to mode it up to flow better, it dosent ruin it.........................

Like as was sayin early, if you want more/better sound, little more power, you should buy that correct silencer to just Husqvarna bike, then jet it.
 

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You are right, but the problem is I can't find ana ehaust mader Husqvarna SMR450 2007.

I have to buy from eBay a slip on exhaust. I only found Leo Vince X3 but for Husqvarna 250/310, not for SMR450.

I think I'll forget about it for the moment, and just use it stock until I find something.
 

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Performance Air Mixture Screw for Mikuni TMR 41 Carb

I have a 2004 Husqvarna SM450R Beast that I am looking to fine tune for a little more performance and better fuel consumption without spending too much $$. Therefore I was hoping if anybody could point me in the proper direction as I am looking for a Performance Air Mixture Screw for "The Beast's" Mikuni TMR 41 Carb. I don't wanna buy the newer Keihin carbs, as I plan on selling the bike shortly. Thanx
 

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Here's my issue. I have a 2007 SMR 510 and when I close the throttle it pops a lot. Also, when I crack the throttle in 1st or 2nd, it stutters. If I wack it open a fair bit, it's fine. I'm at 750 meters and I just in the mountains a lot. I assumed it was running rich. Then yesterday I took it much higher in the mountains and it ran better! Is it possible I'm running too lean? Is it pointless to try and get a carb to perform better at very small throttle openings? I spend a lot more time at larger throttle positions.
 

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Here's my issue. I have a 2007 SMR 510 and when I close the throttle it pops a lot. Also, when I crack the throttle in 1st or 2nd, it stutters. If I wack it open a fair bit, it's fine. I'm at 750 meters and I just in the mountains a lot. I assumed it was running rich. Then yesterday I took it much higher in the mountains and it ran better! Is it possible I'm running too lean? Is it pointless to try and get a carb to perform better at very small throttle openings? I spend a lot more time at larger throttle positions.
Yes, popping on decel and an off-idle stumble sounds like it's running lean but you should be able to fix it very easily with the mixture screw. The mixture screw and pilot jet control from 0 to about 1/8 throttle opening, the mixture screw is up in a tube on the bottom front of the card and takes a small short flat blade screwdriver to adjust.

You can find detailed instructions on performing an idle drop online or probably somewhere in this thread but basically you want to bring the bike up to operating temp and adjust the mixture screw while the bike is idling. Lay some rags on the engine to keep from burning your hand and slowly turn the mixture screw in and out until you find the setting where it idles the highest, then slowly turn the screw in until RPMs drop slightly. Watching the tach helps here as you may not here a small decrease. When the RPMs drop that is the point where the engine starts to misfire due to a lean condition. Back the screw out 1/4 to 1/2 turn from where the RPMs drop and you're done. How far to richen it up is kind of a personal preference thing, at 1/4 turn you may still get a little popping on decel but throttle response should be a little crisper, at 1/2 turn it may feel a little softer and your fuel mileage may drop a little but the popping should be less.

One other thing, after you finish the idle drop shut the bike off and turn the mixture screw in all the way until LIGHTLY seated and count how many turns out it was. Don't tighten the screw down or you'll damage the carb, just turn it slowly until you feel it start to stop. If it was less than 3 1/2 turns out just back it out to where it was set and you're done, if it was out more than 3 1/2 turns you should go up one size on the pilot jet and do another idle drop. If it was less than 1 1/2 turns out you need to go one size leaner on the pilot jet. Ideally the mixture screw should be about 2 1/2 turns out give or take a little if you have the right size pilot jet.

It's really pretty simple dialing in the mixture screw just remember screwing it in allows less fuel and backing it out richens it up, kinda like opening and closing a water faucet.
 

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I followed your advice and richened it up. It was difficult to find the biggest idle, but I backed it off and heard the idle drop and then rode it. The popping stopped, but starting became much harder when cold. Especially if I let it sit for two or three days, it takes a lot of work to get it going. It also chokes and backfires when trying to start. Once going, it runs well, except I can smell the fuel when idling. I've now adjusted it so it pops a little on decel, but not much. After a bit, I'll check the plug. Do you think I could have a jet/needle issue? Its got a K&N filter and slip on exhaust with silencer. Probably running stock jets.

Another thing, the intake pipe from the carb to the engine is old and cracked. Also, it's Euro 3 and it's got a vacuum tube that hooks into it which has been taped up with electrical tape. Could these cause a lean condition? I've got new ones on the way. I'll install and check. Could it hurt to see if I can lift the needle one position while I've got it apart?

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 

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I replaced the air intake stuff and rode the bike. I can adjust the carb so it is rich when idling but if I kill the bike while I'm riding and check the plug it's white. I figured that was dangerous I went to a 182 jet from the stock 180. Now or pops and back fires when in the throttle. It appears much too rich. I dropped the needle down all the way and it's still too rich. Do I need a 181 main jet?
 
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