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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi, i have a ktm 690sm 2007

my problem is that a few days ago i started feeling the clutch lever lose, it feels weird now, and i have to grab the lever all the way in to put it in gear, it does not feel right

what do you guys think? is it something easy to fix?... i haven't check the oil yet, i think it might just need some oil to restore the pressure

it has 10.500 miles i got it with 4.500 and never had to do anything to it before, so i think is time

thanks and will really appreciate any help :thumbup:
 

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Pick up a magura bleed kit and get new fluid in there. The previous owner of my 690 used Walgreens mineral oil, and the stuff was crap that started to congeal.

I used the pressure from the bottom method with the syringe, no possibility for air bubbles in there. When I was done it went from thick and sluggish to the best one-finger clutch I've ever owned.

This is all hoping your slave cylinder hasn't already failed. If it has, you'll need to replace it. You'll need to change your oil immediately too, because you probably dumped mineral oil in it. Once repaired, increase your bleeding frequency. Every 1500 miles would probably be good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you zaph for the great info:thumbup:

Now this worries me

This is all hoping your slave cylinder hasn't already failed. If it has, you'll need to replace it. You'll need to change your oil immediately too, because you probably dumped mineral oil in it. Once repaired, increase your bleeding frequency. Every 1500 miles would probably be good.
Is there any way to find out if this happened? Or i might be able to tell if putting the new oil didn't fix the problem.


Ok, i pick up the magura oil at the dealer, original price was $22.82, the guy gave me a discount and paid $11.90

Now my next question, and again, sorry i'm a total noob, i have never done this before, how do i do this?:anim_peep: can sombody please give me a detail explanation on how how this is done? What tools do i need?

Thank you for your valuable time:thumbup:
 

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Thanks to this forum. I learned all the info here myself for my '07 690 SM.

Well, if you are driving along and all of a sudden your clutch is gone, then you open the top master cylinder and there's nothing there with no signs of leakage elsewhere, that means your slave is blown and mineral oil is in your engine.

There is no short term damage from this, but oil loaded with mineral oil causes notchy shifting and a weird feeling clutch. Long term, if you don't change your oil right away you could wreck your engine. Most people resolve the problem right away, but the wrong thing to do would be to refill and bleed the mineral oil and go on your merry way without an oil change.

Your slave could be partially gone with no serious symptoms yet other than a low level and bubbles in the line. Leakage can go both ways and engine oil can get in your mineral oil. Take a look - if it's very dark and it smells like combustible products, it could be on it's way to failure. likewise, if the level in the top cylinder is low, you've probably leaked a good portion of it into the oil.

There are 3 ways to bleed the system. 1)from the top, pumping it through with clutch action and bleeding out the valve at the bottom into a catch pot; 2)vacuuming it out through the bottom with the kit syringe through the bleed valve, and 3)pressurized from the bottom up with the kit syringe through the valve. The old fluid is removed with the other syringe at the top cylinder or just soaked up with a rag. Some like one way better than other ways but I like #3 because it has the best chance to get bubbles out of the system. My local KTM dealer recommends #3. I think the bleeding kit recommends #2. #1 might work and is easiest but it can be hard to get bubbles out this way.

The only real problem with #3 is that if you don't have the valve opened up far enough, the pressure makes the mineral oil explode in your face. Ask me how I know, heheh. The dealer even warned me about it.

The key to making these slave cylinders last is to bleed every 1500 miles or so. there may be some other tips to be found on the forum, I know there are tons of posts on the subject. Google search helps more than the in-forum search.

Seems like kind of a pain but when these Magura clutches work well, there is no beating them for feel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
First of all i want to thank you zaph for your great explanation and your valuable time :clap:

The only way to learn is doing it yourself. First thing i did was open the top master cylinder, and guess what?... It was empty:rolleyes2: i remember i had a phone number from a good mechanic from the past and i called him

He told me that is was probably because it's been a long time without bleeding the slave and somehow it leaked, he said refill, bleed the slave and get the clutch to work again. After that, re-check the master cylinder, if is empty, the slave must be replaced

So i did and the clutch it's been working great and it's holding the oil:bannana: i just need to master the right way to get the bubbles out

:thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Back again

Hi

So i keep having issues with my clutch, i think it's time to replace the slave cylinder, this is the one i found and looks like people here likes it

http://www.ktmtwins.com/catalog/pro...illet-690-clutch-slave-cylinder/category/142/

Now my question is, my master cylinder also leaks, is this cause by a blown slave? Or do i need to buy a new cover for it? Anything else i need to know replacing this things?

It looks like an easy installation but any tips would be very much appreciated

Please help!!!
 

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Now my question is, my master cylinder also leaks, is this cause by a blown slave? Or do i need to buy a new cover for it? Anything else i need to know replacing this things?
Leaks how?

But no - a malfunctioning slave would not cause any leaking at the master.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Leaks how?

But no - a malfunctioning slave would not cause any leaking at the master.
From the cover, everytime i'm going out for a ride i notice a small tear coming out from the cover

Maybe i'm not installing the cover the right way, but i'm freaking tired of opening the damn thing

Thanks for responding "yuu" :thumbup:
 

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From the cover, everytime i'm going out for a ride i notice a small tear coming out from the cover

Maybe i'm not installing the cover the right way, but i'm freaking tired of opening the damn thing

Thanks for responding "yuu" :thumbup:
Make sure all the surfaces are clean - lid, reservoir body and both sides of any seal.

Opening things up will usually end up getting a little of the oil up on the lip of the reservoir which will then appear outside. A little after opening things up is normal - just wipe it off or rise with mild soapy water to break up the oil on the surface.

If a lot is coming out - like any amount to run down or drip off then you need to check for a damaged bit in the seal or damage to one of the metal surfaces.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, i will check that first

Thanks:thumbup:
 

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What zaph says :thumbup:

For mating surfaces I use a torque wrench, so there is even and correct pressure to all bolts/screws, cause if you over-do it at the bolt, it will deform there, and there is no going back :rolleyes2:

For you info, there is also an after market slave for the 690

Try to investigate where the problem is before reassembling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What zaph says :thumbup:

For mating surfaces I use a torque wrench, so there is even and correct pressure to all bolts/screws, cause if you over-do it at the bolt, it will deform there, and there is no going back :rolleyes2:

For you info, there is also an after market slave for the 690

Try to investigate where the problem is before reassembling.
Thank you "oki"

I'm looking now into that torque wrench i really need one

I learned that this "slave cylinder" problem is very common on these bikes, so first i'm going to try the cheap way. I just ordered a new O-ring and a new gasket, and also two new flat head screws for the master cylinder, if this doesn't work i'll buy a new slave

Thanks you so much guys :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 

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While I'm a proponent of the torque wrench for many things - getting it out to snug the cover on my masters is a bit much IMO. They just need to be snug and even without gorilla gripping it.

Also, at the low torque values you'd be looking at for those, you'll really want something like a torque screw driver for precision work.. A hundred something dollar tool you'll use infrequently... if I was going to spend on a specialty tool like that I would be putting my money to a spoke torque wrench.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
While I'm a proponent of the torque wrench for many things - getting it out to snug the cover on my masters is a bit much IMO. They just need to be snug and even without gorilla gripping it.
this makes sense too

Also, at the low torque values you'd be looking at for those, you'll really want something like a torque screw driver for precision work.. A hundred something dollar tool you'll use infrequently... if I was going to spend on a specialty tool like that I would be putting my money to a spoke torque wrench.
Good point...

... Going to check that screw driver now

:thumbup:
 

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If i remember correctly its 10NM for the clutch screws. I bought a cheap 1/4" torque wrench from ebay and checked it. Ok its not so good at the ends of the scale, but I'm not using it there. I have changed my front sprocket about 30 times, and that involves removing a couple of screws holind the slave and no issues so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Please!, help installing new slave cylinder

Hello friends, hope everyone is doing great

I'm back with another question(s)

So i bought the sigutech clutch slave cylinder, $155 with shipping, it took two weeks to get it





I want to install this myself... Is it just, take the screws out, install the new one and bleed the clutch?... Any tips?... What is the proper way to install a gasket?, or proper way to install this slave???

Sorry guys, i know for most of you these are stupid questions but this is new for me, so any help will be very much apreciated

Thanks!
 

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I haven't done a KTM clutch slave - so I'm not 100% sure.

But I'll tell you about what to do for Ducati and some will help as it's probably quite similar.

So, you:
- Take off the original - but do no loosen or disconnect the bleeder or line yet.

- Clean! It'll be grimy down there so close to the sprocket - take time to ensure you do a good cleaning. With the fact there's a gasket make sure the case side if free of oils or other contaminants that might spoil the seal

- Prep! Get all your tools and parts in a handy place. This included topping up the reservoir
On the Duc, once you loosen the banjo fitting enough, fluid (on those it's brake fluid) will start coming out, so you want to be able to move quickly
Ensure the slave piston is as far into the body as possible. You don't want a big air space in the slave that will mean even more bleeding.

- Loosely fit the new slave and it's gasket. I mean LOOSE - like only a few threads of the bolts into the case loose. Enough to keep it on the side of the bike, but leave you room to move it.

- Disconnect the line from the old and transfer. Don't fully tighten the fitting just yet

- Snug the slave bolts to hand tight

- Now position the line as needed and tighten the fitting to torque spec

- Torque the slave retaining bolts to spec

- Bleed that SOB! This will probably be a pain as a good bit of air got in during the transfer and might take a couple sessions. It's a almost necessary step with the ducs to bleed normally then as a last step strap the lever to the bar and let it sit over night or even 24 hours to allow trapped air to work its way up to the reservoir and out of your fluid column. Not sure if it's the same for the KTM set up - but it doesn't hurt to try
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Update

First, "yuu"... Awesome explanation, was very heplful, thank you! :bowdown:

It's been ten days since i replace the slave cylinder, so far it looks like the problem is solve, i open the top master cylinder to see if the mineral oil was still there or even if level when down, but nothing!, still the same :bannana:

My clutch problem looks like it's been solve and that's thanks to all of you guys, zaph, yuu, oki :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 

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You're welcome. Hopefully you won't have to mess with it again, save for the occasional maintenance bleed
 

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Just an FYI. When the slave cylinder starts to leak at the plunger, all it requires is a new buna-n rubber o-ring, available at any/all hydraulic shops. It's a .21 cent piece. Screw KTM and their unwillingness to sell just the o-ring instead of the whole $140+ slave cylinder.
 
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