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I'm not 100% sure that is detonation. At first glance maybe, but all the photos I see online show thicker deposits or broken ceramics to indicate detonation. But I will agree that it appears the engine is running too lean. You've got me wondering so I will pull my spark plug over the xmas break and have a look.

If I were you (and I probably have the same scenario), I'd try using the KTM Evo1 mapping.
 

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I'm not 100% sure that is detonation. At first glance maybe, but all the photos I see online show thicker deposits or broken ceramics to indicate detonation. But I will agree that it appears the engine is running too lean. You've got me wondering so I will pull my spark plug over the xmas break and have a look.

If I were you (and I probably have the same scenario), I'd try using the KTM Evo1 mapping.
Yeah i alredy switched to the standard Evo 1 mapping instead.
Please post a picture of your spark plug when you pulled it out :)
 

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Yeah i alredy switched to the standard Evo 1 mapping instead.
Please post a picture of your spark plug when you pulled it out :)
I finally pulled my spark plug to have a look. It doesn't look anything like yours. I only have about 2000km on that plug, approx 1500km with the KTM Akrapovic mapping, and only 500km with Tai's modified maps. I'd be willing to bet your injector needs to be cleaned. Taijohnson had the same issue early in this same thread.

 

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Smc 690 r 2013

Where i can find akrapovic map for SMC 690 R 2013, on tuneecu site i can only find for 2011 and evo 1 for 2012 no maps for 2013
 

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I have a 2013, yes. The maps are the same in 2012 and 2013. You need the Evo 1, that's the one for open pipes, there's no Akra map, only Evo1/2
 

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Hi guys!
Had my bike on the dyno today to see if it ran rich or lean , im running taijohnsens mapping with the added fuel and timing.
Although i use the stock exhaust this is so i can pass the sound regulations on track here in Sweden, other mods are the evo 1 lid and dna filter.
As expected it did ran rich , especially in the midrange.
What surprised me was the power output with stock exhaust! I got 61 hp on the rear wheel and 72NM , impressive!
Tomorrow me and the tuner are going to optimize the map with TuneEcu , will post the results then.

This is the dyno Graphs from today.
 

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Hey guys, I own a KTM 690 SMC-R 2013. Today I installed the Evo2 cam and when I was uploading the new mapping with TuneEcu I was checking the TPS values and I saw they where different then described in this topic

I don't know if there are differences between the normal 690 and the R (real 690cc's)

Are those values correct or do I need to adjust them?



Also, should I alter the F-L switch?

EDIT: In the picture I have an error code because I disconnected the motor so I can test the TPS by hand when fully closed.
 

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Hello,

Remember to disconnect the connector on the throttle valve body while adjusting all of the voltages, when finished, re-connect it and clear the fault code.

The values for the SMC R are:

THAD basic position = 0,28 - 0,32 volts (when you are pushing on the butterfly valve)
THAD emergency position = 0,53 - 0,57 volts ("idle" screw adjustment)
APAD basic position = 0,28 - 0,32 volts

You can try to edit the F-L switch if you have any problems, I would have adjusted the F-L switch.
 

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Hi Guys,

Great thread, I have been learning so much.

I have a UK 2012 690 SMC-R to which I have added the Akrapovic end can (removed DB killer) and KTM Evo 1 airbox lid (Standard filter).

I downloaded the 2012 Evo 1 maps and it rides strong but suffers the dreaded on/off slow speed jerking when riding with small throttle opening at town speed.

I made some 233 maps from another thread by AMa in another forum (EP map from 201 and FI map from 231) which looks really hopeful but I have not yet loaded them. I am still a bit confused.

Is it recommended to change the EP map to 100% in the Performance throttle table? Also should I be changing the F-L Switch in the FI map to 10,10,0,0,0,0,0,0, ?

I keep hearing that the 231 Evo 1 map still runs lean so should I increase the fuel by 4% in F and L settings?

I have read so much here and in the other forums my brain hurts and I want to learn so bad.

Thanks in advance for any help.:)
 

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Hi Guys,

Great thread, I have been learning so much.

I have a UK 2012 690 SMC-R to which I have added the Akrapovic end can (removed DB killer) and KTM Evo 1 airbox lid (Standard filter).

I downloaded the 2012 Evo 1 maps and it rides strong but suffers the dreaded on/off slow speed jerking when riding with small throttle opening at town speed.

I made some 233 maps from another thread by AMa in another forum (EP map from 201 and FI map from 231) which looks really hopeful but I have not yet loaded them. I am still a bit confused.

Is it recommended to change the EP map to 100% in the Performance throttle table? Also should I be changing the F-L Switch in the FI map to 10,10,0,0,0,0,0,0, ?

I keep hearing that the 231 Evo 1 map still runs lean so should I increase the fuel by 4% in F and L settings?

I have read so much here and in the other forums my brain hurts and I want to learn so bad.

Thanks in advance for any help.:)
OK, no body got any thoughts?

Im going to try the 231 map with 2%, 3% and 4% fuel increase in both F and L settings. Also trying the AMa RPM Relative EP Map. Devices switched off. Fingers crossed :headscrat
 

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OK, no body got any thoughts?

Im going to try the 231 map with 2%, 3% and 4% fuel increase in both F and L settings. Also trying the AMa RPM Relative EP Map. Devices switched off. Fingers crossed :headscrat
Use it with +4%. It's still a bit lean especially around above 50% throttle in the midrange, but that's your best bet without a dyno.

Try the 100% EP map, it's not good for city riding, but might be usable on track.
Do NOT modify the F/L switch to those values, stock settings are the best there.
 

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Use it with +4%. It's still a bit lean especially around above 50% throttle in the midrange, but that's your best bet without a dyno.

Try the 100% EP map, it's not good for city riding, but might be usable on track.
Do NOT modify the F/L switch to those values, stock settings are the best there.
Thanks Jarrekstar, I see you went through this recently. Did you change both the F and L by 4% as I noticed you posted in another thread that you were going to back of the L to 2%? How did you get on with the 100% EP? I thought it was supposed to make riding the low revs more gentle to avoid the on/off feeling?
 

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Thanks Jarrekstar, I see you went through this recently. Did you change both the F and L by 4% as I noticed you posted in another thread that you were going to back of the L to 2%? How did you get on with the 100% EP? I thought it was supposed to make riding the low revs more gentle to avoid the on/off feeling?
Yes, both F and L have 4% added accross the table. 100 EP makes the bike very sensitive on low throttle openings. Try AMa.'s rmp relative EP (you can find it on AdvRider I think)

Since then I changed to custom velocity stack with pod filter, and have dyno tuned the bike.
 
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