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Reading 98% for WOT is normal. I was wondering about that to with my 690 but it was always like that and bike ran fine so i guess its normal. There are some threads about injector cleaning, one can try that and see if it works. One more thing might be decompression spring might be taken off during valve cover installation but dont see if that would make bike not start when hot but it cost nothing to check it. I dont know any other reason why it wont start hot without opening throttle except that screw witch regulates 0.5V reading and air temperature sensor (i did replace mine). When bike is cold servo motor keeps 3% throttle opened, when bike is hot servo motor sets it to 1% it actualy closes flapper to throttle position. If throttle position is closed to much it might be reason for not starting, thats why that 0.5V reading is important it tells servo motor fully closed flapper position so ECU knows how much it has to crack it open for seamless starting. Also if Air temp sensor is broken it would be same thing, but if TuneECU shows 1% throttle position when bike is hot it would mean air temp sensor is working propery unless ECU takes coolant temp for adjusting cold-hot throttle position.

There is no stalling issue which i find odd, since if bike cant start hot then it should not idle properly either imo considering there is mixture problem made by poorly adjusted throttle sensors, or air temp sensor. Thats why i suspect decompessor or valve clearance or maybe even valve rockers.
 

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Reading 98% for WOT is normal. I was wondering about that to with my 690 but it was always like that and bike ran fine so i guess its normal. There are some threads about injector cleaning, one can try that and see if it works. One more thing might be decompression spring might be taken off during valve cover installation but dont see if that would make bike not start when hot but it cost nothing to check it. I dont know any other reason why it wont start hot without opening throttle except that screw witch regulates 0.5V reading and air temperature sensor (i did replace mine). When bike is cold servo motor keeps 3% throttle opened, when bike is hot servo motor sets it to 1% it actualy closes flapper to throttle position. If throttle position is closed to much it might be reason for not starting, thats why that 0.5V reading is important it tells servo motor fully closed flapper position so ECU knows how much it has to crack it open for seamless starting. Also if Air temp sensor is broken it would be same thing, but if TuneECU shows 1% throttle position when bike is hot it would mean air temp sensor is working propery unless ECU takes coolant temp for adjusting cold-hot throttle position.

There is no stalling issue which i find odd, since if bike cant start hot then it should not idle properly either imo considering there is mixture problem made by poorly adjusted throttle sensors, or air temp sensor. Thats why i suspect decompessor or valve clearance or maybe even valve rockers.
I'll ask him when he did the clearances last but he swaps it over to motard trim and races it bit so generally keeps it tuned better than most, does sound like the .50 voltage may be the one to try and bump up a little as everything sounds like its right.
 

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KTM 690 SM 2007 Stallin problem

Hi, could someone help me with the "Procedure on how to adjust these 2 sensors can also be found in Repair manual from pages 165-169....." I haven´t this manual and i am sure my bikes problem is teh same of ANRIL.
My bike is 690 sm 2007, do you know if the voltage values are the same?
Regards from Seville, Spain

PD: My firts lenguage is not english as you can see....sorry if i wrote bad something
 

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This is the only place I could find a download for the service manual. It costs some money but helped me through the process of adjusting the voltage.
http://www.cyclepedia.com/online-manuals/ktm-motorcycle-online-repair-manuals/

I also used tuneEcu to see the voltages
http://www.tuneecu.com/

And this cable is needed for the tuneEcu and of course a laptop.
http://www.dualsportwarehouse.com/Tune-Ecu-Cables-For-KTM-Engines-TUNE-C-KTM.htm?categoryId=-1

I might be able to copy and paste from the service manual. I will check later this weekend.
 

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Many many thanks for your reply and the info, i will buy the Repair Manual one more time, I bought two "repairs manual" before on other sites and the chapters Fuel System and Inyection aren´t there. I have asked to Cyclepedia and i am waiting till response.
Anyway, yesterday I was enjoying some mechanics with my bike and could insert akrapovik tuneecu maps and it seems that the bike has improved a lot (before this, the bike is constantly stalling, even at idle), but i can not do the calibration of the 15 minutes because it stopped after three minutes with a fuel feed problem (I have faulty fuel pump and still I have not received the new one).
Next time, when you have new fuel pump and TPS values​​, i will follow the directions of Anril and the other participants in the chat and i will try to adjust TPS voltages.
 

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It's definitely in that document.

I scanned the documents to pdf but the forum isn't letting me upload them. I will try and PM you.
 

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Hi guys... I didn't wanted to open any new threads so here I am. My lovely 2007 ktm690sm is sick.

I red everything here. Did the adjustment using tuneecu. After getting everything sorted (0.72/0.72/0.52 V) and connecting the plug to the throttle it drops the upper value to .58. I understand this is the stepper motor taking over, but why is it dropping the value?
Bike will start only if I open the throttle, as soon as i let it go it dies.
My TPS gauge reads 0% to 100%, when the plug is not connected it's 4-100%.

After the procedure, the throttle response is better, more dynamic, but won't idle at all.

Any ideas about this stepper motor?

Cheers guys.

Matt
 

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Hi
I have similar problems with my 690 sm 2007. I fix my bike with a new fuel pump, also i adjust TPS but i don´t remenber the values. My pump had a rare problem, sometimes it works ok and sometime it doesn´t run...anyway the idle was not possible to mantain.
If you need something let me know.
Regards
 

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Thanks dude...
My day off today, and I woke up 8am to work on this bike again...
TPS still on perfect values when the multiplug is disconnected from the throttle. I assume it must be like that?

I cleaned the throttle inside with the butterfly... it was disgusting filthy. Just used tissue to wipe the stuff inside clean. After doing this, I checked the Tps again to be sure nothing changed while playing with throttle. Bike started right away and kept 1600rpm idle like never...
Left it for 15min reset. Went for a ride and it dropped the rpm once i clutched it only for first 5 min maybe. After that like a dream... i could rev it clutch it and 1600 idle alle the time :)
Went to my local bike shop for Motul Carbu cleaner, just to finish the job once and for all... will let you know how it performs after that.

Another thing.
Today i got my K&N air filter, so i put it on. Noticed that the bike is more responsive, and a little louder?... Is that right?
 

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Simptoms:

2. Bike does not stall during idle but when u try to apply small amount of throttle for 1st gear take off. During idle try to open throttle by very small amounts Very slowly and u can hear engine running irregular or even stall.
This is the EXACT issue i have after i mapped the bike with EVO2 map 2 days ago :(
Sometimes it launches nicely while other times when i give it just TINY amouth of throttle I can hear allmost like it scoops to much air ( hard to explain ) through the K&N air filter and it just shuts down!.... the bike was running perfectly fine with evo1 map but my spark plug was white/gray so the ktm dealer told me to map it to evo2 even that i didnt have the cam.
What may cause the stall ? Is it maybe that i ride it in Advance mode on mapswitch ? :hmmm:
 

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Sounds like you should remap to the Evo 1 maps and not worry about the plug. Mine is whitish grey too, but no sign of over heating.
 

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Now the Interesting fact is that i think bikes goes Much better with the new map. :)
So id rather try to remap it with evo2 , maybe i didnt twist the throttle correctly when i was updating , Or i just need to calibrate the sensors :hmmm:
 

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So I tell you guys what was wrong with mine.

Throttle body, butterfly... Mapping, adjusting TPS and all that stuff was helpful but bike was still "starving". Someone here already said that, but i might just repeat, give a good clean to throttle body inside and butterfly. Mine was "looking" ok when just looked at, but was covered with sticky stuff and TPS red 3% open it was really like 1% opening. That's why bike started ok, but stals when getting warmer.

Just something to check guys.

After cleaning throttle (Motul Carbu clean, that's what i used), and adjusting TPS just in case, since I played with butterfly, bike is like new... well... better that in the moment I got it. Really responsive and you can feel the power now. I also got rid of the 2nd and 3rd gear restriction, got K&N, ordered MIVV 1in1 exhaust and Map it with Akra.

Cheers
 

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Update on my bike. I just had my bike dyno'ed and mapped in Louisville KY at commonwealth cycles. Upon picking it up, the guy who mapped it said it was running lean all over the place, especially at just off of idle which most likely is why it was still stalling on me (rarely). I was running the 2007 KTM w/ Akra maps and the SAS and O2 turned off when I dropped it off with them. Anyway the bike runs better than ever. He disabled and removed the O2 sensor as well. It does pop on deceleration but it runs great and didn't stall on the last couple of rides which were all over an hour and the bike got hot (which is typically when it would stall). It pulls smooth in all gears as well, worth the money.

Unfortunately not all shops can do a good job with dyno mapping, but if you research you should be able to find one in your area that knows what they are doing.

I have no doubt adjusting all of the sensors, replacing the fuel pump, etc (all detailed above) were necessary, but it seems the TuneECU maps are certainly less than perfect and potentially part of the problem it seems (at least in my case).

Also I had a small leak at my counter shaft seal, that they replaced, not sure if anyone else has had that problem or not.
 

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Correct THAD and APAD Values for 2013

Can anyone tell me the correct THAD and APAD values for a 2013 690?

I have the tuneecu software and am running the stock maps. When not manually closing the throttle valve with my finger, the throttle display in tuneecu shows 8.3 - 0.52v (top value in tuneecu) and 0 - 0.28v (bottom value in tuneecu). When manually closing the throttle valve, tuneecu shows 8.5 - .32v in top value and 0 - .28v in bottom value. Does anyone know what the correct values should be for a 2013?

The reason I'm checking these is that over the last 200 miles, my 2013 with 4400 miles has developed intermittent stalling issues when hot. It almost always restarts immediately. But, a few days ago, it got really bad. In a 30 mile ride, it probably stalled 30+ times. Any time I pulled the clutch in when coming to a stop, when the bike would settle to an idle, it would stall. The only modification to the bike is a UniFilter in the stock airbox with the snorkel.

Thanks in advance for any nuggets of wisdom you can share.
 
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