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Nah, not to difficult, and I read through that maybe English is not your primary language.
I am an engineer, 55 years, I can figure out instructions.
Thanks again.

Yes, next time I try Leo Vince exhaust I will restrict it with a smaller opening. I think you might be correct about needing more back pressure. I bought the Leo Vince for the weight savings, so restricting it is not a problem for me.

Love my bike. The ultimate toy.
 

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I'd like to add my experiences to this thread. I have a 2007 690SM with a K&N and Akrapovic titanium cans.

I just bought it used and it was experiencing serious stalling issues. The maps installed by the dealer for the previous owner were:
KM750EU070F030FIMap.hex
KM750US070F001EPMap.hex
These are a mismatch, one is stock and one is the 2007 w akra map, this is what you get from the dealer I guess.


Things I have done to date:
1. replaced fuel pump and filter with cycleworks pump and oem filter on ebay. It is a fact that these pumps are failing in all years, which clogs the filters, unbelievable really. I replaced mine which was black expecting this to fix the stalling issue, it did not, but obviously needed to be done. Will post pics if I can.

With the fuel pump, I did not have an issues with the lines getting pinched but I did have an issue with one of the grey quick connectors popping off after installation, might want to zip tie everything together before you put it all back in the tank. Also the new pump comes with a hose and clamps that won't sufficiently tighten to the filter. For this I installed 2 standard hose clamps which has worked so far (popped off before I did this). I probably pulled this thing out of the tank 10 times. It's a ridiculous design and if I ever meet the guy that designed it I will promptly kick him in the nuts. Also you don't have to drain the tank, just tilt it so all the gas is on the lower side.

2. Replaced manual cam chain tensioner, kind of helped with the rattle, but I think it's just a loud engine.

3. Remapped to all different maps that are listed as with akra exhaust (myself with TuneEcu), nothing helped with stalling (more on this later)

4. Finally tried this procedure (above)
So really you don't have to remove the tank or airbox, pretty much just remove the seat, the plastic piece that the fuse holder is attached to, unplug the throttle motor plug, loosen the intake tubing and clamp and start adjusting. The process of adjusting the 2 switches on either side is really easy, just takes time (my upper voltage was out of spec). Also you can get a $20 set of tamper proof bits and driver from Sears.

The third adjustment is where I had problems. I could not get the cap off of the bolt to make adjustments (I will post a picture if I can of the bolt removed) it doesn't appear to be glued on, but rather a tension cap that should slide off, it won't. Before I started messing with it too much I realized the voltage did not even need to be adjusted so I just screwed it back in. Be careful with this piece, I checked the OEM parts diagram and they don't list this bolt, adjuster or cap, so if you screw it up you better have a plan for replacement, I couldn't even get the cap off to see if it's a standard size or configuration bolt.

Here's a weird thing and I don't know if others have noticed this, but when the stepper motor is unplugged and you are making adjustments, everything looks good on TuneEcu (after correct adjustments) and the throttle dial shows a full range if motion 0-100 when you turn the throttle, HOWEVER when you reconnect the stepper motor plug and look at the voltages the upper voltage looks out of spec and when you turn the throttle the dial only goes from 0 - 9%. I don't have any idea what's up with this but I have read other threads with people talking about this. Unplug the motor cable however and everything looks good again. Since unplugging the cable is part of the adjustment process I'm assuming it's normal until someone tells me otherwise.

Anyway I took it for a ride and my bike was still stalling occasionally so I started thinking I might need to change the maps again.

5. Remapped after throttle adjustments made.

I was running these files during the adjustment:
Titled all years w / akra (there are 2 sets of files with this name) these files were sent to me from a guy that they were working well for, didn't work for me for some reason.
KM750EU0804031EPMap.hex
KM750EU0804031FIMap.hex
Bike kept stalling

I remapped with the files labeled 2007 690sm with akra exhaust (I had heard from the same guy with my same bike not to use these files, that the all years were better) Anyway after a decent ride today, bike had great throttle response and power and no stalling for the first time since I have owned it. These files were loaded with the O2 sensor and SAS ON. I am just trying to get the bike running without stalling at this point, I might turn those off in the future and retry it. But for now it seems great.
Files now running are:
KM750EU070F030EPMap.hex
KM750EU070F030FIMap.hex

This has all taken me weeks and hours of messing around, this is a great bike, but honestly some of these issues are just a poor design (in my opinion). It sucks that every time you remap the engine should be stone cold and you need to do the 15 minute idle after, which pretty much means you get one shot a day. Again this is my understanding and may not be necessary, but it's the way I was told.

Note: I was leery of using the TuneEcu program. Now I absolutely love it. I am running XP and had no weird issues. Occasionally I need to manually connect and disconnect the ECU from the menu and sometimes you need to reconnect the USB, but as a whole it's awesome. I have run all these maps and as where the bike didn't always run great, at least it ran. I feel like this is really nice software and a great resource. Even if you don't want to mess with maps, you can run diagnostics and check codes and reset codes with no danger to the ECU (that I can think of or am aware of). I personally won't ever mess with the adjustments inside the maps myself, but I don't have a problem trying different working maps. I bought my cable from these guys http://www.dualsportwarehouse.com/

I will write back later if I can get any more miles in this year it's getting cold here in Chicago.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I had same problem with that bolt u post picture Plotts. Cant remeber how i got around it but i did pull out whole screw and had to adjust it outside the throttlebody.

Thing about steeper motor is that it regulates idle (by regulating idle throttle position) and it can take over your throttle input (by not letting throttle valve open). After u reconnect everything back, voltages should be as u set them before connecting steeper motor u have to be sure since u will never get same readings twice but they do need to be in that 0.70 - 0.74V range. I found odd thing that giving full throttle TuneECU would show 97% opening and not full 100% dont know why...

About stalling issues. ATM i have none, actually i starded to ride tight wood trails with to tall gearing and every time it amase me how stall resistant this bike is. Some times bike is so low on rpm it feels like its below idle and it can pick up throttle with no problem (only problem is engine noise from from load at low rpm). I can tell for sure that 3 things makes this bike stall:

1st is if throttle sensor adjustment is out of spec (thats why i made this guide),

2nd if your pipes are not restricted as stock, i had aftermarket muffler with 50mm diameter opening at the end and bike was still stalling even with throttle sensors adjusted then i made silencer for it that reduced diameter to 30mm (just as is on stock muffler) and had no stalling after that,

3rd is O2 sensor (u have to set that O2 sensor off it helps stalling and makes wonders to throttle response specially when ridden slowly).
 

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So what's my problem then? (I'm sure my wife could chime in)

I checked the voltages again (yesterday) before I remapped, because I saw they were reading 0.69V top, 0.73 bottom (with plug hooked up). When I removed the plug and checked them again I got 0.73 top, 0.73 bottom and 0.53 closed.

What else can I adjust?
 

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My bolt came out just like that as well. So I went to Home Depot and bought a stainless steel M4x30mm slotted panhead bolt and stainless steel nut to use as a jam nut.

Works great, and very easy to adjust now.
 

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My bolt came out just like that as well. So I went to Home Depot and bought a stainless steel M4x30mm slotted panhead bolt and stainless steel nut to use as a jam nut.

Works great, and very easy to adjust now.
Just one nut keeps it from spinning I guess? Thanks for the info.
 

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Just one nut keeps it from spinning I guess? Thanks for the info.
Yeah, just like any jam nut. You can just keep the bolt in place and back the jam nut down against the throttle body. I'm fairly certain that's how the stock one works, and the "cap" is just used to keep us from messing with it. Mine hasn't moved in several hundred miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
Also which maps are you running exactly?

You said you have the o2 sensor off?

What about SAS?
I own ktm 690 Enduro 2008 model. It has RU-1750 pod filter, aftermarket muffler, EVO1 map with disabled O2 and enabled SAS. Enduro/SMC modles have different intake system then Duke/SM models (cams might be different also but dont know for sure)

Wrote 2 replies already but for some reason they are not here...

Here are my advices:

1st - check your valve clearances, on rmz 450 cross bike successful kickstarting the bike is very dependent on valve clearance. So is stalling at idle...

2nd - to be sure u r downloading maps to ECU properly always download ORIGINAL maps to ECU FIRST! Then download Acrap map. Do it like that every time to be sure! There is no need to do 15 min idle after u download original map or any other from my experience.

3rd - Check how it runs with silencers or if u have any try to restrict exhaust at mufflers. For my enduro silencer that restricts muffler noise makes wonders to stalling resistance might not be true for SM since it has 2 exhaust pipes.

4th - make sure all 3 throttle body sensor voltages are within spec. U have 2 sensors and 3 voltage readings, 2 readings are for steeper-motor and idle position and one is for throttle position. U said u didnt need to adjust that screw but that screw directly regulates warm idle position...
 

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I own ktm 690 Enduro 2008 model. It has RU-1750 pod filter, aftermarket muffler, EVO1 map with disabled O2 and enabled SAS. Enduro/SMC modles have different intake system then Duke/SM models (cams might be different also but dont know for sure)

Wrote 2 replies already but for some reason they are not here...

Here are my advices:

1st - check your valve clearances, on rmz 450 cross bike successful kickstarting the bike is very dependent on valve clearance. So is stalling at idle...

2nd - to be sure u r downloading maps to ECU properly always download ORIGINAL maps to ECU FIRST! Then download Acrap map. Do it like that every time to be sure! There is no need to do 15 min idle after u download original map or any other from my experience.

3rd - Check how it runs with silencers or if u have any try to restrict exhaust at mufflers. For my enduro silencer that restricts muffler noise makes wonders to stalling resistance might not be true for SM since it has 2 exhaust pipes.

4th - make sure all 3 throttle body sensor voltages are within spec. U have 2 sensors and 3 voltage readings, 2 readings are for steeper-motor and idle position and one is for throttle position. U said u didnt need to adjust that screw but that screw directly regulates warm idle position...
1st, I will this winter

2nd, why? I haven't heard that one yet. It seems everyone has their own method with these maps, but if it works, it's worth a try!

3rd, it's running great for now so I probably won't look into spending money on Db killers, but I do believe they are made for this exhaust.

4th, the bolt adjustment only adjusts the upper voltage when not pressing on the throttle plate correct (and throttle motor unplugged)? Mine shows 0.73 every time I check it so I wouldn't see a reason to adjust it. Except like I mention, when I reconnect the motor plug the upper voltage seems to drop to 0.69.

Thanks for all the advice everyone! It really seems like there are a myriad of issues to be had with these bikes and there is no one reason or guaranteed fix, but it seems like I am at least getting there! The bike is a beast!
 

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My Progress Report

Thought I'd chime in again.
When I checked my TPS and the Servo Motor, only the TPS was out of whack -the servo side was correct.
Since I adjusted the TPS and fixed the broken wires on the air temp sensor -I've had no issues with stalling or backfiring and blowing the throttle body off. Eighteen hundred miles since my last post.
I even put the Leo Vince exhaust on, with standard maps, and all is good. (I do run the quiet insert in the Leo, and fabricated a spark arrestor screen)

One thing worth mentioning. The crankcase breather hose attaches to the air box at a very unfortunate position right next to the rubber boot feeding air into the throttle body. This feeds crankcase mung and goo directly into the throttle body. My throttle body was covered inside with a sticky nasty mess of crankcase phlegm.
Recommend you clean all the goo out of the throttle body while you are in there setting the sensors, as the goo could be interfering with proper operation of the butterfly valve, causing it to briefly stick closed.
 

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I'll bring this thread back since its probably a better thread than putting this in the TuneECU thread.

A friend of mine has a 690r '09 thats been having an issue when starting, the bike starts fine from dead cold but once its been ridden and left to sit for a while it won't fire, you can crank it and it just cranks and cranks but won't fire unless you give it a little throttle.

He originally had a wings pipe on it and had the akra map but has put the standard pipe back on to see if that makes any difference which is doesn't, he had risers on the bars and the throttle cables were a bit tight so we re-routed those to take some tension off the cables, I connected it up to my computer and checked the voltage and it was all correct so he tried it for a few weeks to see if the cables were the issues but it made no difference.

Today I went around and we pulled the airbox out and tested the voltages open and closed which were all correct and within the factory range, the TPS was 3-98% even after the throttle reset. After confirming the voltages were all correct I remapped it from the Akra map that was on it to the factory maps, reset the throttle and did the 15min idle. After that the TPS had changed to 1-98% so better but not perfect. We wondered if the throttle cables could be still a bit tight so we tried adjusting each cable in and out half a turn but saw no difference in the % figures so set them back to where we started.
So after setting it back to the factory map, confirming voltages and have the TPS at 1-98% we left it for 20-30mins to see if the issue was resolved, hit the starter and same issue as before, its cranks until you give it a touch of throttle and then starts. He's going to run it for the week with the standard pipe to see what its like and then we'll put the wings pipe back on and I'll map it back to Akra map and try for another week.

As far as the bike goes its got a new fuel filter, new battery, no broke cables as far as we can see and its well serviced and apart from the starting issue when warm runs really well, it had the error code from disconnecting the air sensor when we had the airbox off but I cleared that and everything else was fine, is there something we are missing re the TPS being 1-98% or something else we should be checking?? I had hoped to find the voltage out and an adjustment would fix it but not luck, any suggestions would be welcomed as would love to fix it.
 

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I know you checked the throttle voltages, but I am guessing it's still the culprit somehow. Did you open and close the throttle while on the computer and make sure the voltages stayed in spec after doing so. On mine (2007) sometimes after opening or closing the throttle 10 times it would still require the smallest adjustment to stay in spec.

Unfortunately there are so many variations and problems that can arise on these bikes it's hard to pinpoint exactly what the problem may be.

My throttle % readings where all over the place, never as good as the numbers you are seeing, so I'm not sure if that could be the issue or not. Make sure to turn the bars from lock to lock when running to make sure the engine doesn't rev from a tight cable.

Keep us posted on the progress.
 

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I know you checked the throttle voltages, but I am guessing it's still the culprit somehow. Did you open and close the throttle while on the computer and make sure the voltages stayed in spec after doing so. On mine (2007) sometimes after opening or closing the throttle 10 times it would still require the smallest adjustment to stay in spec.

Unfortunately there are so many variations and problems that can arise on these bikes it's hard to pinpoint exactly what the problem may be.

My throttle % readings where all over the place, never as good as the numbers you are seeing, so I'm not sure if that could be the issue or not. Make sure to turn the bars from lock to lock when running to make sure the engine doesn't rev from a tight cable.

Keep us posted on the progress.
Yep I watched the voltage as I opened and closed and they were pretty much on the numbers they should be and when you close the throttle it would read one of two volts under but then settle in range, the throttle cables were tight until he flipped the cables but seem to be ok now, I still wonder if we should maybe dial a little more free play into them just incase they are a little to tight but not sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
TPS sits at 3% when throttle is closed because servo motor in throttle body is keeping it opened for cold start. After u heat up the engine it closes it to 2% then to 1%. There are 3 voltage readings that u control via 2 sensor adjustment and one bolt adjustment. It seams like flapper is closed to much when u try to start warm bike. I didnt do this adjusting for a while (once its set it works for years) but from what i recall getting those voltages right takes bit more time. U need to have round 0.5-0.54V when u close flapper with finger u should have 0.7-0.74V thats for 2008 models. U cant be off from those ranges by 0.01V at any time cause its not gona work.What i mean by "at any time" is when bike is cold and when u open-close throttle 10 times in a row and after that u read it before and after it settles, then start the bike warm it up a bit then do it again. Also make sure that your sensors are screws in tight when u do readings since readings will go off after u screw them tight. Always start with 0.5V reading and always recheck it every time u make a change. Also its best to get both sensor as close as possible TO EACH OTHER, u dont want to have one sensor reading 0.7V and other 0.74V. Since your problem lies with warm engine start u should start from there. Warm it up and get it to where it wont start and do voltage readings. Now if u cant find anything wrong there maybe your bike has other spec for throttle sensors. If voltages are in spec you could try to raise voltage reading from say 0.52V to 0.55V and see if it helps since that would keep flapper opened a bit more when starting.

One more thing, does bike stall when hot sometimes? I found that muffler had big influence on stalling resistance and cold starting, less restrictive the muffler was = more prone bike was to stalling. Turning O2 sensor off and keeping SAS on helped in my case as well. But then again i had more problem with stalling when bike was cold then hot.

Adjusting throttle body, loading EVO1 map, turning off O2 sensor while keeping SAS on, restricting aftermarket silencer, and putting on RU-1750 transformed the bike. I was riding trails and bushes in woods and bike was so easy to ride right off idle. No stalling and no lack in throttle response.

BTW did u check your valve clearance? 450 mx bikes are very sensitive to valve clearance even if they are at edge of spec and its easy to notice since bike cant start from 1st or 2nd kick.

Oh ye and did u follow procedure on loading maps with TuneECU i wrote when loading maps other then stock? (always load standard map before u install any other map, 15 min idle and throttle reset is not needed for map change in my expereance only needed after throttle body sensor adjustment).

Hope this helps...
 

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starting issue

Assume you've made sure the throttle body is clean. At the low voltages and torques of the throttle plate motor the smallest amount of sticky crankcase goo can be a problem.
I have the same experience as Anril, silencer back pressure makes the bike run better.
By the way, I checked some parts lists, it does appear the throttle body on the 09 is the same as on the 08.

Assuming you don't have a FI light illuminated which could indicate a broken wire.

With the very low fueling rates of a warm start you may give some thought to taking the fuel injector to the shop and have them clean it. It's easy to take off, inexpensive to do, and is a baseline bit of maintenance to perform before spending hours of time chasing an air/fuel mixture issue.
 

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Its running fine apart from the starting issue when warm, he has the factory pipe on it to rule out the back pressure issue but he wasn't having stalling issues when he had the Wing's pipe on and he had the inserts in then too, I've got and he had a Duke and we both went through the whole stalling issues with the FMF pipe on them, he changed to the Enduro and I put a LeoVince on my Duke which fixed all the back pressure problems and fixed the stalling.
As far as valve clearances etc its in mint condition and he is a bike mechanic so his bikes are always spot on. Voltages did all come in range which is what I was expected the issue to be as most people have pointed out, its running the factory map now and I installed it as the TuneECU instructions recommend, I've mapped my Duke and not had any issues so I'm pretty happy I haven't done anything incorrectly there.

I'll let him run it with the factory map and pipe for the week and see how it goes and if it continues to have the warm start issue, then go back to Akra map and repeat with the Wings pipe. Good to know that the lower % numbers on the TPS are in range but saying that I'm only hitting 98% on the upper range, should I be seeing 100% and if so maybe the throttle cables need to be adjusted since its got the risers?? If the remapping makes no difference then we will try upping the voltage to the higher end of the range as it is sitting at .50v and from memory I think the others were both on .72v so we can bump it up a little.

I had the low voltage issue when running the FMF on my Duke, the LeoVince with more back pressure and a remap and reset fix that and I've had no issues since, at least it sounds like we aren't missing anything and its still probably a voltage issue so with a bit of adjustment we should be able to find a setup that resolves it.
 
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