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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I spent a week trying to get bike not to stall after loading any kind of map with after market slip-on exhaust. This is a guide on how to do it yourself in much less time spent :).


Simptoms:

1. Bike stalls after startup when cold. U need to fire it up every 10 or 30 sec. U can hear it idle iregular and u can even know when its going to stall just by listening to the engine...

2. Bike does not stall during idle but when u try to apply small amount of throttle for 1st gear take off. During idle try to open throttle by very small amounts Very slowly and u can hear engine running irregular or even stall.

Cause of the problem is in two throttle sensors on each side of keihein throttlebotdy. For ECU to know how much throttle is opened, its sensors needs to be in voltage ballpark (so to speak). If sensors are not aligned ECU will think it has throttle opening of 3% while actual opening would be 5% or more, it can also go other way around. Also if sensors are not aligned ECU will not pickup small thottle openings that u apply around idle.

To fix this: one needs TuneECU software http://www.box.net/shared/pusg6v7nyd, connecting cable http://tuneecu.com/TuneECU_En/KTM.html, Service manual and some tools. To be able to unscrew throttle sensors one needs torx t20 that has hole in middle.

Procedure on how to adjust these 2 sensors can also be found in Repair manual from pages 165-169. I also advise to read it twice. In manual this procedure is explained using ktm diagnostic tool. U dont need the tool to adjust anything u just need it to read voltages.

Try to read all of the TuneECU guides to get familiar on how to use this software before u start to adjust sensors.


Procedure:

Do this while engine is as cold as possible. Always consult manual first before doing any of this. I am not explaining how to turn every bold around and I am using nuts and connector names and numbers as in repair manual.

Take off seat, body fairing and air box (dont forget to unplug air temp sensor before u remove air box), then unplug motor drive connector thats under keihein throttle body on the left side of the bike (connector DR1 from manual). There are 2 connectors and DR1 is one that has more then 3 wires! U will know if u unplug wrong one by hearing drive motor working when u use your finger to fully close throttle valve (see repair manual on how to close it with your finger). Now connect TuneECU to the bike and go to diagnostic menu. When its comunicating with the bikes ECU u will see most of bikes sensors values appear in Diagnostic menu, here is how it looks like when its not communicating http://www.tuneecu.com/TuneECU_En/diags2.html.

What u need is to be able to see 2 voltage values under the "Throttle" menu in software ("Throttle" is under "Ignition" and above "Idle" menu on left side of the TuneECU Diagnostic window). Both upper and lower voltage should be round 0.70-0.74 V, and when u use your finger to close throttle valve u should see that the upper voltage value from those 2 drop to 0.50-0.54V. Now if ANY of these voltages is only 0.1V off from what it should be u need to adjust all 3 readings.

So upper voltage reading in TuneECU should be 0.70-0.74V normaly and 0.50-0.54V when u press throttle valve to closed position with finger. While bottom voltage reading value in TuneECU should be 0.70-0.74V.

U always need to adjust all 3 voltages values if any of them is now within spec.

1st u need to adjust voltage reading when u press throttle valve to closed position with your finger. See manual on how to do this! So u need torx t20 key with hole in it (when u see bolt u will know what iam talking about) to losen up sensor that is on left side of the bike its on same side where u unplug motor drive connector. Now adjust sensor by rotating in both directions untill u get 0.50-0.54V reading in TuneECU while pressing throttle valve to closed position. TuneECU reading has lag so dont expect voltages to drop instantly. Make sure that voltage reading stays adjusted AFTER u screw sensor bolts tight.

2nd u need to adjust upper voltage reading to be within 0.70-0.74V when u r NOT pressing throttle valve to closed position. See manual on how to do that! U need to unscrew the cap (fuse cover is called in manual) then u need to loosen the nut no.5 from manual and adjust voltage with screw no.6 from manual. I found manual guide not working for me since top fuse cap was glued on to screw no.6 and nut no.5 was glued so hard to screw no.6 that i need to take it out completly and use some mechanism to hold screw no.6 while i turn nut no.5. I cant give u any advice on how to do that u will just need to figure out yourself, just make sure u dont fuck up the threads on the screw no.6. Once u get this top voltage reading to 0.70-0.74V u can go to 3rd step. Sorry for not being more help full here but I am not sure if u will find this screws glued or not (mine ware glued in not very logical way!).

3rd u need to adjust throttle position sensor on the right side of the bike so that bottom voltage from TuneECU reads 0.70-0.74V. Its same procedure as in 1st step only by using sensor or right hand side of the throttle body (opposite side from 1st step). Adjustment is done after u open throttle fully and close it 10 times and voltage is within specification every time!

4th u need to turn off and back on ignition on the bike, then w8 till it connects to TuneECU and check AGAIN if all 3 voltages are in specification range. If they are in spec range then u are done. Dont forget to do this after any sensors adjustment!
 

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Wow this is some great info... Thx for taking the time to write it up and share with the rest. :thumbup:
 

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Has anyone tried this? Does it actually resolve the cold start up stalling issue?
nice to see tune ecu has opened some doors. I resolved stalling issues by installing a fresh fuel filter as mine was clogged; and adding fuel to the bottom of the akra map specifically to idle rpms. Also you can change the switchover from the regular map to the idle map so it changes at a lower rpm giving smoother throttle and less chance of stalling.
So while my bike might be off as it shows 3% throttle opening at idle i did the fueling adjustments first and it corrected the ultra lean condition at idle and the thing runs good. If i get brave i might attempt the above write up, thanks for that
 

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Tune ECU

need instructions on how to get to the fuel table and change it then down load it -
have downloaded maps but can't seem to locate information on how to these changes to A/F mixture at various RPM/s

Thanks

Steve
 

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Anyone?

need instructions on how to get to the fuel table and change it then down load it -
have downloaded maps but can't seem to locate information on how to these changes to A/F mixture at various RPM/s

Thanks

Steve
Anyone have any helpful suggestions on this?
Thanks again in advance

Steve
 

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need instructions on how to get to the fuel table and change it then down load it -
have downloaded maps but can't seem to locate information on how to these changes to A/F mixture at various RPM/s

Thanks

Steve
Steve,
assuming you have Tune ECU up and running and the bike connected you simply choose download map from the ECU menu while in map mode. Save it. Then you can edit it.

You don't change the A/F mixture exactly, you alter the injector time by increasing the values in the main maps (F1,F2,F3). On my bike (SM) F1-F3 all appear the same. You can increment each box/value individually or select a block of values and increment/decrement.

But of course you must know exactly what you are doing if you don't want to risk grenading your engine.
 

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Hi, I have covered the sensors on the EPT, following the instructions above. They stayed in:

- Basic position voltage "THAD", 0.54V
- Emergency runnig voltage "THAD", 0.69V
- Grip sensor "APAD" 0.65V,

then, start the motorcycle, to perform the reset of fifteen minutes, and the bike is at 3000rpm! Loosen the throttle cable and a low 2200rpm.

Anyone know because it stays so revolutionized the motorcycle or high idle?
As regulates the idle?

APAD sensor, this gives me the maximum and 0.65V, and its value is from 0.70 to 0.74, because it goes higher? Be broken?

Hehehe, there are many questions and my English is not good, sorry, but I want the best for my KTM 690 SMC!

You know, if the values ​​of EPT KTM 690, 2011 are different from those specified in the repair manual 2008?

THANK YOU!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
1st use 2011 repair manual for correct values, i know 2010 models have changes regarding throttlebody but i cant tell which.

2nd i still dont understand your problem. 2200 idle rpm when cold is normal, 1650 when hot is normal idle rpm.

Both sensors on the thorttlebody are very sensitive to slightest movement, and your voltages might change just after u tight their screws to lock them in place. Procedure is somewhat boring cause u need to tighten them all then do open-close throttle round 5-10 times then measure voltages again (measure all 3 voltages).

Sensors could be broken but u need to be sure u are doing it right before u change them...

I could help u more if u can explain your problem better
 

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Thanks for the reply,

The idle is at 2200 rpm with a hot engine. I have to check the values ​​again. I realized the 15-minute reset. Also open close 10 times the accelerator. Tomorrow will connect to Tuneecu once again for the values.

And I followed the instructions in book repair, enduro 2008. If someone is kind enough to hang the repair book 2011, it would be greatly appreciated!

thanks
 

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I have the same problem with my 2011 smc.
I need the trottle values for a 2011 SMC

My problem was that the bike some time's give a little trottle when i close the trottle to get on a roundabout, not nice, when you count on the engine brake.......
:headshake
Therfore i connect the SMc on the laptop.
Adjust it with the 2008 manual and the bike won't even start
I adjust the left sensor til 0.5 with the vinger on the valve @ .72 V emernecy.
then adjust the rigt sensor, an cant get more than a .65 V on the reading and a sensor fault on the ECU.

My original readings where both 0,62V
later i adjust the sensor to the original value , and the bike wil start and run again normaal.
has anyone the 2011 manual ?? or the correct values.
 

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I have the same problem with my 2011 smc.
I need the trottle values for a 2011 SMC

My problem was that the bike some time's give a little trottle when i close the trottle to get on a roundabout, not nice, when you count on the engine brake.......
:headshake
Therfore i connect the SMc on the laptop.
Adjust it with the 2008 manual and the bike won't even start
I adjust the left sensor til 0.5 with the vinger on the valve @ .72 V emernecy.
then adjust the rigt sensor, an cant get more than a .65 V on the reading and a sensor fault on the ECU.

My original readings where both 0,62V
later i adjust the sensor to the original value , and the bike wil start and run again normaal.
has anyone the 2011 manual ?? or the correct values.
Hello!

I got a KTM SMC R 2012 model, and the repair manual 2007-2010.

I use the values for the 2010 690 Duke R on my bike. THAD = 0.530V to 0.570V, and when you push the butterfly valve fully closed THAD = 0.280V to 0.320V. APAD = 0.280V to 0.320V.

Values for just the Duke is THAD = 0.70V to 0.74V, pushing the butterfly valve fully closed THAD = 0.50V to 0.54V. APAD = 0.70V to 0.74V.

I asked for the repair manual for the 2012 smc, but got this one? But the values seem to be the same and the engine is most the same.

I hope this maby helps you out. :thumbup:

Greetings from Norway!
 

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stalling and blowing TB off engine.... Fixed

I joined this group just to say that I followed Anril's 5-30-2011 instructions on a 2008 Enduro I purchased used that refused to run right, stalling and blowing the TB off the engine on backfire....
Fixed my bike. What a joy to ride now. Thanks Anril.

Now... Having purchased a Leo Vince exhaust.......... Make sure your bike runs right before swapping exhaust and tunes, because too many variables makes impossibility. My bike runs perfect on stock tune and pipe, but when I go to Leo everything changes and will take me some time to figure out.

Make sure you are not mixing in a fuel filter/screen/pump problem at the same time!

Thanks Anril.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Iam glad it helped. Some times i worry cause after i have read it while back i noticed that there are few things i wrote down wrong. Guess its not that hard to do this. Btw i can tell for sure that smaller diameter muffler helps as well.
 
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