SuperMoto Junkie banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to buy this style/ model bike. can I have some input about price and what I should offer? Is this a good supermoto deal?

Here is the ad copied/pasted: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/mcy/3937438353.html

Bought a new bike, sadly just don't have room for this beast anymore. It really is the most fun you can have on a bike, light and nimble but extremely powerful.

The most care has been put into this bike, only using the best oils and parts. Oil has always been Motorex recommended by KTM from the factory.

-2003 KTM 525 EXC racing engine (electric start)
-Plated, clean title and currently registered for the street (you can't plate these bikes anymore!)
-Valves checked and reset to factory specs less than 300 miles ago
-Talon Billet anodized hubs
-DNA racing wheels
-Billet axle adjusters
-Front and rear axle slider kit
-High Flow intake/filter
-FMF Carbon Exhaust system
-Braking full floating wave rotor
-Brembo Caliper
-Racetech suspension front and rear
-Trail tech Vapor digital gauge
-Pro Taper Bars
-New chain
-New Battery

Extras
-Comes with a full dirt setup, Wheels/tires and a sand paddle
-Desert high capacity gas tank
-Saddle bags
-KTM factory service manual
-Much more

SO GUYS WHAT DO YOU THINK? What should I offer?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
It also has 10.000 miles on it

just so you know it has 10,000 miles on it and he is asking 5000
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,397 Posts
10,000 miles is a lot, even for a RFS. I would want to know if it's still on the original piston, cylinder, valves.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
reply

10,000 miles is a lot, even for a RFS. I would want to know if it's still on the original piston, cylinder, valves.
Ok I will ask and get back to you. Thanks for the help.

Do you have any commentary on the price? Assuming they were replaced. He mentioned something about the valves being reset to stock spec?

What should I say?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do you have any commentary on the price? Assuming they were replaced. He mentioned something about the valves being reset to stock spec?

What should I say/bargaining tactics?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
he replied

10,000 miles is a lot, even for a RFS. I would want to know if it's still on the original piston, cylinder, valves.
he said, "top end at 5k and valve check 300 miles ago, everything was in spec"




do you have more input for me?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
the price would be high for where I live (Indiana), but probably not unreasonable for CA.

What would be the most likely maintenance costs within the next few months if I did buy it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
Bottom end is a big cost item and will most likely be due SOON! I have heard of bottom ends lasting 20,000 miles but that is on the long end. Probably runs around $1500-2000 parts and labor, depending on what you do.

At 12,000 miles I would have to walk away, especially for the price. Or negotiate a better deal and swap in a lower mileage motor or rebuild the whole thing.

Lou
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Price doesn't seem too terrible, CA does set a premium on CA plated dit bikes. If it wasn't factory plated it is very difficult and can be costly to do after the fact. But around here in SoCal a plated rfs bike seem to be going for 3500+ depending on condition and extras. A full set of dirt wheels is nice to have, and it does look in ok shape....but 10k miles is a lot of miles for a race bike on the street. I would ask for proof of the rebuild. I would want to see the splines on the counter shaft and check their condition. Make sure it's plated in CA, and not some other state, because their is no garauntee it will transfer to CA.

I would work him down on price and make sure you get a good warm and fuzzy feeling about the history of the motor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Price doesn't seem too terrible, CA does set a premium on CA plated dit bikes. If it wasn't factory plated it is very difficult and can be costly to do after the fact. But around here in SoCal a plated rfs bike seem to be going for 3500+ depending on condition and extras. A full set of dirt wheels is nice to have, and it does look in ok shape....but 10k miles is a lot of miles for a race bike on the street. I would ask for proof of the rebuild. I would want to see the splines on the counter shaft and check their condition. Make sure it's plated in CA, and not some other state, because their is no garauntee it will transfer to CA.

I would work him down on price and make sure you get a good warm and fuzzy feeling about the history of the motor.


THANKS GUYS, so I guess I am going to ask to see paperwork for the top end or just lay down the law and ask for a price decrease to compensate for the bottom end? Urgh I wish I had someone more knowledgeable than me to talk this guy down =b.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
I have a 2006 525 that I blew up last year. I finally got the funds to get it rebuilt this summer. Here's the quote from the guy who built it:

Well we got this opened up, not pretty! Rod bearing failed, as the crank splashes thru the bit of oil in the bottom it slings the oil/debris onto the front cylinder wall, piston comes down and grinds thru the grit, as the bearing fails piston travels up further and hits the valves, its final breath was piston hitting the head hard enough to dent the piston down so it pinched the top ring, that ends compression and engine quits.
It needs rod, piston, cylinder re-plate, valves general rebuild.
Original estimate was around $1500. I wanted to keep this thing for a long time, so I went nuts and had him go all out with it. I did a 540 kit (new cylinder/piston) oversized valves (which will hopefully help longevity) 806 cam, and had him bore the carb from 39->41mm. It came out to about $2200 excluding the $2-300 it cost me to ship it out west from KY.

This could have been a much cheaper repair earlier on. There was a bad noise in the engine that I was trying to diagnose. After ruling out the simple possibility (primary drive nut that commonly comes loose) I should have sent the engine out then. I kept riding, it blew up. There were also plenty of metal shavings in my oil. I was dumb and I paid for it.

I'm not sure what this bike is worth, but there's some actual info from an up-to-date engine build. I'd say if he had no paperwork, use that as a basis to talk him down. Tell him you'd have to send the engine out to get refreshed soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I am looking for a better deal

Thanks for the input guys.. he won't budge so I am looking for a better deal. =]
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top