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Hi, I have a stock klx250sf, and have gotten pretty comfy with stoppies, up to around 40mph....now i want to make them look cool,,,,,any tips on B.A. landing, like a 180, and how do them?
And how do i extend my stoppies...... i get about 40ft or so, until i run out of forward momentum, and tips on that?
Thanks
 

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To go further you have to get your rear wheel higher. Yes, it takes more brake to get it up, but it also takes less to keep it up.

As for landings, not sure.

I need to start practicing stoppies again, I haven't done one in forever.
 

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balls
 

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you have to bring the bike up faster and higher to roll farther, take it a little at a time so you don't go to far though. to bring it around 180 you have to push on the inside grip and lean into it as you are slowing down. gotta keep the wheel up high as it comes around to get full 180. if you come up short, you have to start the rotation at a faster speed. watch out for the under rotation highside action though.
 

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+1 to what Ryan said, turning stoppies is all a matter of practice. its a skill that takes years to master to roll long distance smoothly. i gotta work on my 180s still im sketched to toss it around at to high of a speed and just get thrown off. stiffen your front sispension as far as it will go and it'll help you be a bit smoother
 

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+1 to what Ryan said, turning stoppies is all a matter of practice. its a skill that takes years to master to roll long distance smoothly. i gotta work on my 180s still im sketched to toss it around at to high of a speed and just get thrown off. stiffen your front sispension as far as it will go and it'll help you be a bit smoother
Ive done that alot, LOL!! Run out of it!
 

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I was gonna say that if you're only rolling 40', you ain't ready for 180 stoppies yet...
 

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before you start learning 180s and 270s and precision and parking and stuff, you need to learn how to do longer stoppies.

Example:
Where you are - Counting only your roll (40ft) your deceleration value is around 43.02ft/s^2, thats around 13m/s^2 which is around 1.3g.

I considered myself an intermediate roller, when i rolled my practice stoppies around 35mph best i could do was about 100ft (i had 100ft marked out, i rolled past it, but i can't claim it as i never really measured, maybe i had better results but i switched to 100ft approach instead of a set speed, rolling around 150-160ft on that, then i increased it to 150ft approach rolling 220-260, then just rolling whatever speed felt right and worked on precision, turning around cones, 180s, 270s, and parking, longest i've ever rolled was around 350 feet, but that's because i didnt want to go any faster than about mid-high 3rd (1 down 5 up on my drz). But 35 mph at 100ft comes out to deceleration value of about 13.1ft/sec^2, i may have done better, but again, i didnt keep track of speed after that.

Official world record holders did 305 meters (1001ft) with 120mph approach, thats 15.47ft/s^2.

However if you look to better riders; Mitch Adams for example rolled 925ft with a 400ft approach in a comp at the Nashville round of XDL this year, unfortunately i can't find their approach speed, however i know Adams rocks a 600, so i'm going to do some quick guesstimating, based on an r6 0-60 acceleration (3.something sec, don't want to look it up again), i am averaging it at around 7.847m/s^2 which over 400ft gives us 97.85mph (it would be slower as the power required to push an object through a fluid increases as a cube of the velocity, meaning a car that takes 10hp to overcome air resistance at 50mph, would require 80hp to overcome air resistance at 100mph, meaning that the acceleration of the bike gets slower the faster you go) but without going into complex modeling which i don't have time for, lets assume, generously 95mph, average deceleration of 10.49ft/sec^2

The comp was won by Jesse Toler, but he had a 1000 and so had a much faster approach bringing his deceleration number higher than Mitch's, and i mean come on, Mitch rolls stoppies with 1 finger on the brake. Also the faster you go, the more deceleration due to air friction, so at 30-40mph those those deceleration values would be a lot lower.

Anyways, that's to help you put a perspective on where you are. I'd get to consistently roll ~100ft on 40mph before working on 180s, no feet, 1 handed, 270's, 180+hop, precision, 1 foot in 12 bar, and parking, oh and slalom, can't forget about slalom :)
 

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wow dude you are really looking wayyyyy to far into the physics of doing stoppies.

you dont need to learn how to roll distance to learn any of the turning ablities of stoppies, some people like nick apex love to turn stoppies and so on but have no desire to roll long distance. on a rocket its wayyy easier to carry a faster approach speed when lifting into a stoppie the bikes are just way heavier and tend to go straight a bit easier, motards are so light its easy to get out of control on the lift. i used to go for distance on a 636 and could roll 300+ but ive looped a few and now could care less to roll anything over 100ft. and unless your doing comps most don't care to measure stuff out either. i'm working on turning abilities and so on i will rarely get into upper 3rd gear and go for any length of distance. hardest part with stoppies is being consistent on the lift and thats also the scariest part, lifting to fast is the worst way to crash ive done it twice, id rather loop at the end trying to carry it a feet extra feet than i would when your doing 45-50mph like both of mine were.
 

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The thing is you need to be up there near the balance to exercise contol, if you are not up there, you cant quite turn effectively, and for 180s you will actually be up, where you turn the bars and use the brake to kind of launch the back end over the top as the front turns. It's weird to describe, but when you push on the inner bar the front will start rolling in a semi circle and the back will start kicking in the opposite direction, but you will actually be adding a little more pressure on the brake (you will get a feel for it) that compresses the suspension and aids the back in making that arc. Turning on a stoppie is a little different, the best way i can describe how to learn it is to be rolling, looking straight, then look a bit off path (right or left) and align your body to it (meaning you will actually lean towards it), and that will turn the bike, then when you aligned the bike you continue looking in increments in the same direction and continue aligning the bike to that position. For slalom its a the same motion you will just lean left then right then left again feels like you are leading the bike. 1 hand off is fairly easy, you just gotta get a feel for it a little, so do it right as you are about to come to a stop a few times first let go a little trying to keep the bike up, and grab the handlebars when you are coming down, then you realize how easy it is and you'll be able to come up on a stoppie, be rolling, take your hand off, no prob.

For practice:

For precision, set a cone and a fairly low box (like a crate) on the ground. practice by rolling from the cone (to get consistency, you will get the speed dialed this way) to the crate. Actually between the cone and the crate, if you are rolling from the right side of the cone, roll towards the left side of the crate, which will give you a good angle once you first tap then roll over, and finally park the bike on the crate. Some people also do distance precision, usually they will start with some cones in a line or a corner shape and practice approaches until they can get very close to the cones without going over.

For parking, if you have a consistent spot to go to, build a medium bench (something that doesnt require you to be waaay up to park on, which was my initial problem and my drz exhaust can bears the dents from when i was trying to park it on a picnic table) make it about 1/2-3/4 of a width of a car, find a good place for it, where you can place it consistently and practice parking on it. Techique is simple, approach it at about a 30 degree angle and as you roll close to it turn in the opposite direction, the back tire travels about 90 degrees of your original trajectory. Again, you push on the opposite bar, you are just not doing the full 180. Weird thing is that once you get it, you will probably jump off the bike, so you will need to practice it for a bit before you can just park the bike there and do a burn out. That's for example how Like Emmons practices (i've ridden with him a few times) (a lot of this is not without his input)

For turning, (not like 180, think 270 approach) you want to put some cones down making at first a wide, but eventually fairly narrow path with at first a slight curve to it (somewhere in the middle), then gradually you'll want more challenge and start making the curve bigger, and the path narrower. Then you can play with some cones, set up 3 for slalom to go left right or right left, then 4, then 5 for a challenge

And between all that you will come up with other things to do, as you get better at controlling stoppies, tricks will come. Like as i was doing practicing turning, i got into doing 270s as it's a 90 degree turn followed by a 180, etc.

And no matter what they like to do, between L Duke, B Bubash, B Dixon, D Herz, some other local riders who love to do sick stoppies, they can all roll very well, they can all roll pretty long stoppies, but they don't like getting hurt, so they keep the speed down and tricks more technical. http://video.mpora.com/watch/ZjNyp5k4o/

Stoppies, are one of those tricks you gotta take slow and steady, if it's not working for you that day, stop trying, it's an easy way to get hurt. I've flipped a stoppie on a 70 in a lift, i've also flipped my drz and couldn't ride for 2 months on a lift, also wiped it out on some dust in cold weather coming up once too. Lifts are scary, but it's something that comes with practice, you just want to be consistent with how you do them (like i see some people trying to slide up the tank or bounce on the seat, and thats dangerous), and wear good gear :)
 

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thats some good info for guys that don't know how to roll yet or are just getting into rolling farther and starting to try new things. i can steer really well and get the bike to go in any direction i want im just working on perfecting some things and getting more comfortable doing different stuff. ive only been on a motard since spring. the lift is the hardest part to get really consistant at especially if you've looped a couple and gotten hurt in the past like i have.
 

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From there, it's just practice, as you very well know. You just gotta roll them, roll them and roll them some more, there's no magic formula and no way to learn it over the day, you get more comfortable the more you do them, you get better pick up, carry, stability, control, feel, etc.. :)

I've crashed my fair share of stoppies, enough that i havent rolled any last year at all; don't even have the front suspension set up for stoppies on the 426, though if my hand brake keeps getting postponed like it has, i may have to...

Stoppies are so addicting...

Also my responses were really aimed more at Dr, as he's the one who originally asked for direction, so i hope he is getting something out of it, as far as your comment on physics, well its a part of it all, and it certainly doesn't hurt understanding at least some concepts involved. I am just here to share what i know and what i've learned, sometimes the hard way, and when it comes to it, ask for direction. I'm always trying to learn more, though i haven't had as much seat time in this season as i really wanted to, but if i feel like i can provide some input, to not have someone make the same mistake(s) i have, i try to do so. And I'll never claim that i'm the best at anything, in fact i'm first to state that i'm not :)
 

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I want to try and learn to do stoppies, but the best I have been able to do is, bring the back tire up around 2 feet coming to a stop. How does someone start out learning a rolling stoppie? I'm riding a DRZ, the fork springs are pretty stiff for my weight and street riding, but I think they are about mid range on adjustment. Do they need to be to stiffest compression setting?
 

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they dont need to be the stiffest theyll go but it can help if you get to much bounce. if your doing it coming to a stop thats your first mistake its way easier to do them at some speed than coming to a stop. its easier to loop um coming to a stop cuz your lifting all at once when rolling you can lift it more gradually. just work on it at 30mph or better and youll get um.
 
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