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Discussion Starter #1
would you please share how you did it?I tried 3 different spanner wrenches(none which would fit in that tiny space) before boogering up the spanner nut with a screwdriver.

Thanks
 

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Beat on it w/ a punch or remove the entire shock and do it on a bench.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Beat on it w/ a punch or remove the entire shock and do it on a bench.
I beat on it with a punch enough that I formed a nice little round indentation on the nut and thought I was going to mess up the threads on the shock.

Remove shock to adjust sag?:eek:
 

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Unfortunately it's just a stupid design. They could have at least given us a steel shock collar to beat on.

Anyways, to make it spin easier spray the threads w/ WD40 and then jack the bike up a bit to take the pressure off the spring.

Then, you still have to beat the crap out of it and mess it all up. Pick a tool that is as broad as you get so as to spread the load out.

Both of my KTMs have crapped out shock collars.
 

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you have to take some weight off of it, so jack the machine up from under the engine, but i noticed there is no room in there, so might have to remove some things to do it right
 

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Their is a "bung" in front of the RH side footpeg that you jack it up on.
 

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you have to take some weight off of it, so jack the machine up from under the engine, but i noticed there is no room in there, so might have to remove some things to do it right
I'm 5'6" and weigh 138 pounds without gear so I really wanted to get that extra inch of sag. I noticed that after I sprayed the threads with a little WD-40 that top lock ring it spins pretty freely (by hand) once you loosen it with a punch, or in my case, a tire iron.

I figured the adjuster ring should spin just as freely if it wasn't pushing against that damn spring. It took me a moment, but I noticed that I could wedge a tire iron between the one of the spring coils and a frame cross member and use that compress the spring enough to spin the adjuster. It worked like a charm, I can get both feet on the ground now. :thumbup: Don't forget to wrap the iron with some cloth tape so you don't mar the spring or frame.

 

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the spring is definitely under pressure from the retaining ring, so the ring closest to the spring won't move 'freely'
 

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I used a spanner wrench from ohlins and it turned with some effort. the problem is the bottom turned with the top so I need a second person the hold the bottom still. the rear wheel was off the ground. there's also not alot of room so I have to turn about 1/8 at a time.
 

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on my yz i loosen the lock ring and then just turn the spring with my hand
and it will turn the ring nut as well.
do you set it to the same sag as an mx bike? 100mm
 

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I'm 5'6" and weigh 138 pounds without gear so I really wanted to get that extra inch of sag. I noticed that after I sprayed the threads with a little WD-40 that top lock ring it spins pretty freely (by hand) once you loosen it with a punch, or in my case, a tire iron.

I figured the adjuster ring should spin just as freely if it wasn't pushing against that damn spring. It took me a moment, but I noticed that I could wedge a tire iron between the one of the spring coils and a frame cross member and use that compress the spring enough to spin the adjuster. It worked like a charm, I can get both feet on the ground now. :thumbup: Don't forget to wrap the iron with some cloth tape so you don't mar the spring or frame.

Good thinking!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Their is a "bung" in front of the RH side footpeg that you jack it up on.
At delivery I asked the salesman to help me with the sag (which ended up as him watching me mutilate the ring). He lifted the bike on a center stand but it was never steady and was rocking back and forth.I was going to put on an aluminum skid plate on in hopes the flat bottom would make it more stable on the stand.Is there a better way to jack it up... ?
 

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I think your confused on how to do this.

Leave the bike on the kickstand. Then jack it up near the right side foot peg where it's leaning up on the kickstand.

To get the front tire off do the same but put the jack under the front of the engine.

I have been doing this for years on all kinds of bikes and it always works well.
 

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I dropped the shock out of the bike to make the adjustments. Not too bad, just takes time. I agree that the collars are shite, soft metal that just buggers up when you try and adjust the preload.
 
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