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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I had my first full weekend on my drz so I decided to practice body position and form. First thing Saturday I'm out riding around the house and I come into a tight switchback, not too fast, stick my foot down, inside arm straight, outside arm slightly bent, trying to push the bike down beneath me when all of a sudden the rear breaks loose! My first close call went well, I saved it thanks to having a foot down. My tires are nothing great at this time but I expected better grip than that. What caused this? And yes I was very smooth braking, leaning, and on the throttle. Does my upper body need to lean in as well even tho my ass is somewhat on the outer portion of the seat? This also happened today in a high speed turn. BTW I have no experience on mx style riding so this is very new.
 

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it sounds like you got a little too aggressive before your tires warmed up to proper temp. next time, get some heat into them before you tear it up. oh, and check your tire pressures. make sure they are at the proper psi for your bike.
 

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put more weight on the outside peg. possibly cold tires and pushing too hard as mentioned and/or too much air
 

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^ What those guys said. Also, do you still have the stock tires on your DRZ? If so, ditch those as fast as you can...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Tires were warm cause I had just rode like 15 miles to pick up my new sm front fender. The tires are lame, not even sure of the brand. I ll probably order a set of conti SM's this week unless somebody can tell me something better. Not really sure what pressure to be running, I know I never ran the stated pressure on my old sportbike and it handle fine with no slippage. Can someone post pics of some moderate lean angle foot out turns so I can see the correct body positioning, no peg grinding slide pics please I'm not advanced enough for that yet
 

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Stay above the bike and put pressure on the outside peg. Your inside leg should be slightly bend and lean your body to the front of the bike.



Or the sick version:

:lol:


Edit: Trying out your and your bikes limits on the track or an empty parking lot will help you advance really fast :thumbup:
 

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Stay above the bike and put pressure on the outside peg. Your inside leg should be slightly bend and lean your body to the front of the bike.




Edit: Trying out your and your bikes limits on the track or an empty parking lot will help you advance really fast :thumbup:
That's great advice right there. Also, get way forward on the bike, put your junk on the gas cap so to speak to weight the front tire.

That being said, if you just got the bike, might not be a bad idea to take it easy for a bit and get a good feel for it. Especially until you get some decent tires.
 

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First thing Saturday I'm out riding around the house and I come into a tight switchback, not too fast, stick my foot down, inside arm straight, outside arm slightly bent, trying to push the bike down beneath me when all of a sudden the rear breaks loose!

This also happened today in a high speed turn.
So the problem is the rear breaking loose? Both on the switchback and the hish speed turn? Everyone has has given very good advice that you should think about and work towards in your riding but notice they're focusing on getting weight up to the front tire because that's usually where the problems are. Breaking the back end loose is kind of normal on a supermoto, depending on why it happens.

So, do you use the rear brake? It is super easy to lock up the rear if you're using the rear brake. And you want to use the rear brake sometimes, especially as you get good, but it's something you can add in later. I would skip the rear brake for now and work on body position and just getting comfortable on the bike.

How about in the high speed turn? Were you had on the gas and the rear stepped out? Or neutral, or braking for it?

As for tires, stock DRZ-SM tires are reportedly no good for traction. Contiforce SMs heat up quickly and are sticky. There are plenty of tire threads out there. Get new tires so you don't waste your time with the stock tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Im pretty sure I wasn't all up on the tank, both times were just mid turn steady throttle no brakes like I just ran out of tire or something. Hopefully Its just my junk tires instead of me. I did manage to remove the half inch chicken strips that were on it when I got her :bannana:
 

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I'm pretty sure that tire psi is the culprit. First set the tire to the correct psi. If you still have the same symptoms, it could very well be your lack luster tires or poor suspension settings.

Do you at least have the sag setup in the rear for your weight? If you don't that will help.
 

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Gutzy hit on a good point too, you need to set your sag properly if you're going to be riding it agressively. Depending on what you weigh, you may not be able to get a good balanced setup without having the suspension done. Tire pressure is a good point too, how twisty are the roads where you live? Here in western NC, depending on tire selection, I run around 24psi front and rear cold. Any higher than that, and they'll slide with you.
 

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I'm pretty sure that tire psi is the culprit. First set the tire to the correct psi. If you still have the same symptoms, it could very well be your lack luster tires or poor suspension settings.

Do you at least have the sag setup in the rear for your weight? If you don't that will help.
Plus one on that, If he has 35 PSI in the back end and he weighs 200 pounds or more with a stock spring then the rear end isn't really gonna do shit.....
I have been harping on this for years...:headshake gawd it has been years now :anim_peep:...get the bike sprung for your weight...set the clickers in the middle get some tires with the right PSI and that bike should stick like shit to a blanket...I have come up on DRZ's on the track on practice days and have seen peg all the way against the engine cases...:thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
HPIguy, I'm in Murphy nc, I have some pretty tight roads plus the dragon within a hour ride :D. I'm running sport bike pressure, 32-34, when I had less the bike felt heavy and didn't turn. I ll drop it down this weekend and test it.
 

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OK I read all the posts but there's one thing I couldn't tell for sure, were the tires new? If they were your problem could have been from the mold release residue that is left on brand new tires. If they weren't new, I'd say it was not weighting the outside peg or over-inflated tires.
 

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HPIguy, I'm in Murphy nc, I have some pretty tight roads plus the dragon within a hour ride :D. I'm running sport bike pressure, 32-34, when I had less the bike felt heavy and didn't turn. I ll drop it down this weekend and test it.
Yep, I know a lot of those roads, grew up in Andrews. :D As mentioned above, you probably need to set your sag for you and go from there. That alone made a HUGE difference on my bike when I first got it. If memory serves, the recommended starting point is 25mm of static (just the weight of the bike, no rider) sag. Some like more, some like less depending on feel. I prefer a little more, the bike is slightly heavier and more reluctant to turn in as you describe, but to me it feels like it's more stable once you're at your desired lean angle and line. I don't ride a lot of what would be considered pure motard stuff though FWIW.
 

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HPIguy, I'm in Murphy nc, I have some pretty tight roads plus the dragon within a hour ride :D. I'm running sport bike pressure, 32-34, when I had less the bike felt heavy and didn't turn. I ll drop it down this weekend and test it.
Plus one on that, If he has 35 PSI in the back end and he weighs 200 pounds or more with a stock spring then the rear end isn't really gonna do shit.....
I have been harping on this for years...:headshake gawd it has been years now :anim_peep:...get the bike sprung for your weight...set the clickers in the middle get some tires with the right PSI and that bike should stick like shit to a blanket...I have come up on DRZ's on the track on practice days and have seen peg all the way against the engine cases...:thumbup:
Yep, I know a lot of those roads, grew up in Andrews. :D As mentioned above, you probably need to set your sag for you and go from there. That alone made a HUGE difference on my bike when I first got it. If memory serves, the recommended starting point is 25mm of static (just the weight of the bike, no rider) sag. Some like more, some like less depending on feel. I prefer a little more, the bike is slightly heavier and more reluctant to turn in as you describe, but to me it feels like it's more stable once you're at your desired lean angle and line. I don't ride a lot of what would be considered pure motard stuff though FWIW.
All three of these.....Start with 25lbs pressure cold work down,but 24 or 25 should do for riding our region. Brian,youd be suprised how many people say they dont need suspension work...Dave at www.fastbikeindustries.com is the man for suspension upgrades to DRZ. He is in Hendersonville and did mine and HPIguys DRZs.
 

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actually I wouldn't be surprised, I read it 2 to 5 times per day...guys figure they only need suspension work If they race,....first thing you do to a sm is do the suspension, especially If you race, If you bought the bike and ride it like a moped then yur fine I guess..:rolleyes2:....I dunno its rare that a guy doesn't buy an sm for the fun factor... and they are fun but when you really lean on one then the short comings of the suspension comes into play...generally its the springs are too light then if they are correct for the rider ( the guys weighs 165 to 175 ) then the sag isn't correct...new riders have to remember these bikes aren't designed to have 17 inch wheels,they were designed with a 21 inch front and a 19 inch rear...with some tweaking they work super well but out of the box :headshake
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
No doubt I need suspension work. I'm right at 200 lbs and 6'4", my back tire rubs my exhaust when I come down from stoppie haha. how pricey is suspension work on these bikes :hmmm:?
 

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actually I wouldn't be surprised, I read it 2 to 5 times per day...guys figure they only need suspension work If they race,....first thing you do to a sm is do the suspension, especially If you race, If you bought the bike and ride it like a moped then yur fine I guess..:rolleyes2:....I dunno its rare that a guy doesn't buy an sm for the fun factor... and they are fun but when you really lean on one then the short comings of the suspension comes into play...generally its the springs are too light then if they are correct for the rider ( the guys weighs 165 to 175 ) then the sag isn't correct...new riders have to remember these bikes aren't designed to have 17 inch wheels,they were designed with a 21 inch front and a 19 inch rear...with some tweaking they work super well but out of the box :headshake
I was one of those guys. Chase and muxherdlr kept trying to tell me, and I kept thinking, this isn't a 1978 XR 250, it's got modern stuff on it, with clickers and everything, can't be that bad. I'm slowly learning to shut my mouth and open my ears :D, but man I wish I had listened a lot sooner. It took me two full weekends to re-learn how to ride a motorcycle that actually worked.

No doubt I need suspension work. I'm right at 200 lbs and 6'4", my back tire rubs my exhaust when I come down from stoppie haha. how pricey is suspension work on these bikes :hmmm:?
About the same as an aftermarket exhaust system. If I had it to do over, it would be THE first mod I would do.
 
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