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Discussion Starter #1
I'm confused so time to ask the collective genius of the junkies.

bike: my xt225sm work bike

symptoms: with proper clutch cable adjustment there's no clutch slippage, but it's a bitch to get it to shift into first. usually involves me kicking the crap out of it while quadruple clutching it at the same time. When i adjust the clutch to be too tight, it's easier to shift into first (still not easy) but the clutch slips. so currently i have to adjust it separately for my beginners so they can shift the damm thing.

Recent work: i put in all new clutch: new metal plates, new friction plates, new springs. adjustment screw screwed in all the way til it engages then backed off a touch, and nut tightened. had the same issues before the new stuff was put in.

Could the issue be the actual first gear? i often shortshift on upshifting since it's such a slow bike, never bang it down without clutch. i also heard that sometimes aftermarket friction plates are sometimes too thin, and that adding a metal plate can solve it? thanks in advance for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
using standard 10/40 moto oil. do you mean knotched basket like the plates wouldn't separate smoothly? basket seems fine. when the cover is off everything looks to be functioning properly. ie pull the lever and the plates separate.

pookie, i have no idea how to adjust basket clearance or what a thrust washer is! only thing i know about is the plates, four screws that hold in the springs, and the adjustment screw in the middle.
 

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Were you the 1st one in there?

A worn basket will drag really bad when in use. The tongs will wear knotches on the basket fingers.

These knotches will cause the fibers to not float evenly or even rock to one side and drag.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i just thought of something. all the plates are aftermarket. if the plates are slightly too thick, wouldn't these symptoms happen? ie no slip when adjusted properly but difficulty shifting.

i was the first one in, put two clutches in, bike has 8k miles, but is abused at low speed much of it's life.

i'm totally lost, i'm thinking about going for round three with all oem parts....kinda lame to pay another $90 but i do make my living off this bike so getting the clutch working/bike shifting is a priority. of course maybe the clutch is fine and the gear is fried?
 

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dunno about your bike B but some bikes have different thickness clutch plates and the few I have seen seem to want the thicker plates on the outside of the stack...bit of a longshot :headscrat
 

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I think brian has a good point there. At least worth checking. If you could rule out the clutch, it may also be a bent shift fork. You said it happened before you replaced it, right? That leads me to believe it may be tranny related.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
dunno about your bike B but some bikes have different thickness clutch plates and the few I have seen seem to want the thicker plates on the outside of the stack...bit of a longshot :headscrat

ok we might be onto something. the stock friction plates were all identical as far as i know. the ones i replaced it with (ttr225) look the same, except it had one skinny one. the thickness was the same, but the internal diameter hole was bigger if that makes sense. i put that one on the outside. maybe if i pull it apart and swap the order of the plates? i have a oil leak as well so i could take care of that at the same time.

while on the topic, is using a razor blade to remove old gaskets the best way to go? the old gasket is really baked on there good.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ok one more point. aftermarket clutch makers have the same part numbers for xt225 and ttr225 and ttr230. however the oem part numbers are different per ronayers:
xt225: 5mp-6321-00-00
ttr225: 537-6321-00-00

the reason for that one skinny one is it has room to fit the "spring clutch", whatever the hell that is.

ok i ordered up the oem friction plates. the metal plates share the same part number so those should be fine. i'll post back up when i get the new plates in. originally i intentionally went with aftermarket because stock xt clutch's are known to burn up quick. lesson learned however is to always use oem plates for me. i also fine it easy to get on the gas really early when you have no power AND your clutch is slipping, it's my secret exit strategy :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
yesterday put in the oem plates which took 20 min. then spent 1.5 hours with a razor blade and some degreaser scraping the old gasket off the case so i wouldn't have another oil leak. changed the clutch cable. put in 10-40 mobile 1 synthetic. changed a kick stand spring cuz the stand was always dragging making me feel like a hero. adjusted the chain, basically just gave the work horse some love finally.

anyway seems to have done the trick meaning my gear isn't toast thank god. i'll have to wait a week to know for sure. the new cable seemed to help a lot. thanks to malcolm who lurks but never posts for swinging by :thumbup:
 

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Glad to hear things worked out. One way to determine clutch from transmission symptoms is to get the rear wheel in the air. Spin the wheel as you shift the lever. The wheel will not turn very far because the clutch is going to hold but if the lever has any complaints about engaging the next gear you may have trans issues. If your cable and plates are in good condition and you set free play correctly there should be no slippage or dragging from the clutch. I am dealing with a XR650L that I fixed the trans and now have to tear it back down. Its hard to get into 2nd gear.
 
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