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I'm doing a somewhat 'hard' break in. Nothing too stressful tho. I'm just over 500km on the engine. Waiting to 1000km to change it out for the first time. Just didn't know what type of oil to use for the first change. Thanks for the info.
 

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I used a oil that’s been a proven winner with smart motorcycle mechanics for yrs, that’s the Shell Rotella brand of Diesel Fleet oils, there rated for use in motorcycle engines with wet multi disc clutches, and it’s DIRT cheap, on Amazon Shell Rotella T4 for about $ 32/ 2.5 gallons, that’s $3.20 per quart...using that great performing but inexpensive oil I changed my 2 big singles oils in the first 2,000 miles I’d say at least 6 times each.
50 mi- oil and filter
150 mi- oil only
500 mi- oil and filters
1,000 mi - oil and filters
1,500 mi - oil only
2,000 mi - drain well, replace filters, change over to a full synthetic motorcycle oil.
I have 3 bikes I run during the yr, and either of my 2 singles will only get about 6,000 mi/ season each, so I’ll change it a couple times each 2,00-3,000 mi/ change, more so on the dirt bike( 690 Enduro R) as it’s clutch gets way more abuse, and it’s more prone to going lower speeds, stopping and these engines run real hot anyway, I’ll change oil in it 1,500-2,000 mi intervals.
It doesn’t even use 2 Qts. to fill. And if your dumping out the used oil that soon there’s no need to do filters every change, at 2,000 mi/change you could easily go filters every 3’rd change, of course that just my opinion..
 

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I changed my oil the day I got my bike, brand new. I put Pennzoil 20W-50, non-synthetic, in it and ran it for 330-350 miles then changed oil & filters. I used the same Pennzoil 20W-50 and ran it to around 800 miles or so then changed oil & filters again using the Motorex 10W-50 Crosspower synthetic. Lots of acceleration, lots of decel as I live near a 10 mile twisty up & down mountain road. Didn't baby it from day one but didn't go for screaming high revs either. 1600 miles on it now and not using any oil at all. Very happy. YMMV.

BTW, multi viscosity oils are not varying. The oil viscosity is the higher number but is blended so that it still flows like the lower number when cold and that means the outside air temperature. It is, in effect, more stable through changing temperatures.
 

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That all sounds good.

Be careful about Motorex motorcycle oil, ( Oil of Switzerland) ???if your not buying it from a KTM or Husqvarna deal your not getting the real stuff. The discounted Motorex in the cheaper bottles is made here in the USA, NOT Switzerland like the oils that are sold at the dealerships. Read the back of each, it says on the back where it’s made.
Have a nice day...
 

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Funny, I asked Motorex if there was any difference between the KTM stuff and the other stuff:

Is there any difference between 10W/50 Cross Power 4t Fully Synthetic with the KTM logo and oil marked the same minus the KTM logo?

and got this reply:

There is not. One is just made/marketed for KTM. The oil is the same formula


now, they also make lower end oils than the Cross Power, but Cross Power 10W50 is the same whether or not it has a KTM/Husky logo
 

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Years ago I also asked them that very question, and here’s my point of view...

If you have some Super Duper concoction of rare chemicals that makes your oil products unique in the whole wide world ,
( remember Motorex Oil of Switzerland...)
that’s why it cost almost $20/ qt.

They do not have there own facilities in the USA making oil here, it’s made for them by a generic oil making lab, that makes lots of oil product for lots of other companies.

Do you really believe there gonna give someone else the “ SECRET FORMULA “. out of there total control???

I DON’TTT.

So I chose to use another oil.
 

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Ah, the beauty of the internet. Everyone can voice their opinion and present their beliefs. All's fair & all's good,

The most hotly debated subjects in the motoring world are oils & tire pressures. They are what most everyone can get a grip on.

My take is that if someone bought Motorex that was made in the U.S.A. then they bought oil that was produced under license and was produced using the same formula as the oil made in Switzerland. There is no magic fairy dust that is added to the stuff in Switzerland. Of course if the oil that you bought was made in there then the argument is mute. It so happens that the all of the Motorex that I have purchased through Amazon was made in Switzerland. It's less expensive because it has passed through fewer middle men. Every hand that touches it from the factory to the consumer has to make some money so the more hands that touch it the more expensive it becomes.

Bottom line is that oil is made to pass set standards. If it meets or exceeds the standards then all is good. On top of that if you are changing your oil at least every 3,000 miles then even better. Change it more frequently then you are likely wasting money but then who is to say that it's bad if it's what makes you happy & satisfied. Modern standards in oil can take longer intervals between changes but I believe it's up to the individual owner/rider to choose what ever interval & oil that works for them.
 

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forgive me for being pedantic, I noticed some missing information.

A blended oil refers to mix of synthetic ester and Dino oil - blended or 100% Dino or 100% synth it has a rated weight (the second number ) the first number is its winter weight - also its cold flow rate.

The first number is achieved by the use of additives. Additives are also what change the oils variety of ratings and determine if it will work with a wet clutch etc.

It’s spot on to say that changing oil too frequently is a waste - however it’s also accurate to say that the additives are used up through the life of the oil - an oil at 7000miles has less additives that an oil at 2500miles.

It entirely depends on the conditions and use of the motorcycle - 690 engines have street clearances and are designed for street change intervals - if your bike is a full race bike you likely already know that your can’t use a street change interval.

The second number is not just the baseline viscosity of the oil before additives - it is also a proxy to the upper bound and lower bound on the temperature / heat that the oil will work correctly in - running a 60 in a cold climate is as troublesome as running a 40 in a hot climate - that said the running range of a synthetic 50 weight is incredible.

Additives are not just special metals and flow modifiers - they can also be designed to combat the introduction of fuel in the oil.

Pirate Racing TV from Germany has a great video for more information about a particular recommendation for 690 engines base on the design of the piston and the opportunity for fuel to slip by the rings (fuel is a solvent - without an additive to combat it, excessive fuel can lower the normal viscosity )

If i recall correctly it is a specific version of motul.

That said - all this depends on your local conditions , the kind of riding you do, and following reasonable oil change intervals - if you do lots of stop and go, very fast, very slow - the wear is going to be more intense than a consistent longer ride at stable rpms.

Edit: include my oil choices:

The oil I stock in my garage is
motul 300V off-road 15W60 - I ran this at 119 degrees Two summers ago.

The oil currently in the bike is 10W50 motorex factory fill - I used belray as well but choose the “thumper” oil as I noticed it had less tendency to shear early as EXS (2016 manual recommendation) did.

I’ll probably switch to the 15w60 in the height of summer and back to 10w50 thumper or equivalent off road synth for winter riding ( California)

best ,

Ram9cc


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Just finished my break-in last weekend. I just used the manual recommendation - the Bel-Ray EXS.

Quick and easy oil/filter change.
Woohoo!! I am finally at the 750mile mark - I’m gonna pass the bike to the shop to do the scheduled checkup and then ... well see.. probably go back to 15w60 cause I have a bunch left .... lol also it is fluorescent green which is insanely cool to me for some reason.


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