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At 2200 Mi... no oil consumption and No Synthetic oil either. Look at the suggested oil rating needed for this engine. But an oil with a higher rating... and I use DELO 15/40 Std not the synthetic. Shifts pretty darn nice now too.... :D
Did you change the oil of your new 701 right away? I believe it comes with synthetic oil stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Did you change the oil of your new 701 right away? I believe it comes with synthetic oil stock.
Husqvarna Rep told me it comes with the Bel Ray mineral oil described in the first post.

Yet I still dropped the oil to be 100% positive.
 

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I’m at 4K miles and get maybe 100ml or so burning after 1k miles. I change my oil every 1k on the dot. I rode the bike like I stole it from day one. Lots of hard acceleration and deceleration most importantly.

I’ll be changing my oil next week. Going to run Motul 300v in 15w-60. I hear good things about this oil so I’m excited to try it out.

Whenever anyone comes into the shop I recommend Motorex Crosspower 4T in 10/60. My personal opinion is I’d rather run a 15/60 or 20/60. The bigger difference in viscositys makes it harder for the oil to do its job. So having something closer like 15-20/60 is better.

Think of it like a camera lens. The wider range of focal length makes the lens worse quality. For example a 18-5mm kit lens that most camera come with never take as clear of photos as say a 50mm.
 

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Trying to assimilate engine oil and a camera lens?? While it is something I do know just a tad bit about I do see what your trying to say but.... I would Never make that comparison. Ever.........I posted it once before and I will stand by my statement.

Look at the oil rating needed by the manufacturer and if your oil is at least rated at that which is the minimum.... find one that is better, if yours fits the bill.... so be it... go for it. I will not be sucked into the high $$ oil scam... colored funny or not... Nor will I ever again use synthetics after the failures in only a single year. I will not waiver from using DELO nor will I ever "try something new because I am excited", sorry if you've done this with as many bike as I have you stay with what works...... I did that swap ONCE to go run a track weekend and use a Synthetic that had that 10/60 viscosity rating....... in 2hrs the crank bearing were TOAST....... rebuild and back to DELO the killer Dino oil and problem solved....... (motor ran longer in hrs than before and was running when I sold it..... :) ).

I am now at around 2250 mi. Oil changed at 186 Mi. *(dealer check for false neutrals and installed Bel-Ray semi syn mix before I got it back..... at around 595mi I had enough of this clackety crap and dumped it and filter for DELO and installed a skid plate and brake master cover at the same time. Oil Changed at 1600mi and I drained the oil for over 24hrs in various angles trying to get the most I could.... only 40ml shy....... so I say NO oil consumption. Oh, did I mention how much better is shifted after that change to dino oil?? I looked in the sight glass yesterday as I gave it a nice bath outside in 45f weather was still perfect to the mark..... so I cleaned and polished her up backed her into the Garage......... and then it snowed this AM...... ugh.:rant::rant:
 

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Sooo DELO- which one has the correct rating? And what viscosity? You will keep running mineral oil, as strong advise by reps/dealers is to change to synthetic sometime around 1500mls
 

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Sooo DELO- which one has the correct rating? And what viscosity? You will keep running mineral oil, as strong advise by reps/dealers is to change to synthetic sometime around 1500mls

The Husqvarna Owners Manual state a request to use JASO T903-MA Oil rating.... This is the Japanese Oil Ratings panel. It is the spec they seem to be Using.... the trick is to find the oil with the correct rating.. and or what is it?? So.... The T903-MA with the MA being the KEY.... Relates to US oils like this.....

4T specifications
Modern passenger car engine oils contain more and more friction modifiers. While this is the good thing for those segments (reduces wear and fuel consumption) it's bad for the motorcycles. At least for those motorcycles which use engine oil to lubricate their transmission and wet clutch. JASO introduced the MA and MB specification to distinguish between friction modified and non friction modified engine oils. Most four-stroke motorcycles with wet clutches need a JASO MA oil.

JASO MA
Japanese standard for special oil which can be used in 4-stroke motorcycle engine with one oil system for engine, gearbox and wet clutch system. Fluid is non-friction modified.
JASO MB
MB grade oils are classified as the lowest friction oils among motorcycle four-cycle oils. Not to be used where a JASO MA grade oil is required.

DELO 400LE has a current oil (it's always been this good) Rating of ... API CJ-4/SM -CI-4 which is at or above the MA rating.

Sticking with what has worked. My GM dealer also told me NOT to use it in my new Tahoe in Jan 06.... It was Built in 05 as an 07 New body rig released early...... I immediately upon arriving home dumped the oil and filter and refilled with you guessed it DELO 400. It was hard to not believe all the BS and the hype........ I have saved a ton of money. I have ran it in my 525SMR and recently had the head serviced to replace the guides...... cylinder still has cross hatches.... trans looks like new and shifts like butter.... was a MFG defect on the guides.... Builder DJH was inpressed with the internals.... clean and like new..... I have only had 1 engine failure at the track and it was a repeated engine to fail........ and it was a bike I bought and ran that had Motorex synthetic from the Prev owner.

BTW.... you don't really think they want you knowing what is and is not good and allows you to not have to put your money in their pocket for repair parts and services ..... do ya?? To each his own I guess..... best to keep it clean and change it on intervals that are kept and adhered to. Happy rippin!!:D
 

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I broke my 2016 701 in per the manuals instructions. By 2200 miles is was burning damn near a full quart of oil every 500ish miles. I had the cylinder rehoned and the rings replaced under warranty. The husky mechanic told me the bottom ring had worn funny which was causing the oil consumption issues. When I picked up the bike the mechanic told me that husqvarna USA told him to have me run mineral oil in it for 600 miles then change it and run it again for 600 miles. After that I’m suppose to run a non synthetic oil for several thousand miles before switching back to the recommended bel ray ester oil. I broke it in the second time using the motoman style break in. I’m right at 5000 miles on the odometer now and the bike uses no oil now and runs better. It’s nice not having to put oil in it every time I fill up with gas now.


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I broke my 2016 701 in per the manuals instructions. By 2200 miles is was burning damn near a full quart of oil every 500ish miles. I had the cylinder rehoned and the rings replaced under warranty. The husky mechanic told me the bottom ring had worn funny which was causing the oil consumption issues. When I picked up the bike the mechanic told me that husqvarna USA told him to have me run mineral oil in it for 600 miles then change it and run it again for 600 miles. After that I’m suppose to run a non synthetic oil for several thousand miles before switching back to the recommended bel ray ester oil. I broke it in the second time using the motoman style break in. I’m right at 5000 miles on the odometer now and the bike uses no oil now and runs better. It’s nice not having to put oil in it every time I fill up with gas now.


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That’s great info thanks for sharing


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I broke my 2016 701 in per the manuals instructions. By 2200 miles is was burning damn near a full quart of oil every 500ish miles. I had the cylinder rehoned and the rings replaced under warranty. The husky mechanic told me the bottom ring had worn funny which was causing the oil consumption issues. When I picked up the bike the mechanic told me that husqvarna USA told him to have me run mineral oil in it for 600 miles then change it and run it again for 600 miles. After that I’m suppose to run a non synthetic oil for several thousand miles before switching back to the recommended bel ray ester oil. I broke it in the second time using the motoman style break in. I’m right at 5000 miles on the odometer now and the bike uses no oil now and runs better. It’s nice not having to put oil in it every time I fill up with gas now.
If you believe this bs story you must also believe in Santa Claus.

If you break in your bike according to the manual nothing bad will happen because, believe it or not, the engineers that actually designed the engine knows what they talk about.
 

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If you believe this bs story you must also believe in Santa Claus.

If you break in your bike according to the manual nothing bad will happen because, believe it or not, the engineers that actually designed the engine knows what they talk about.
I’d suggest there is not much thought, understanding or research involved with that statement.

The post you quote and rubbish is not a “story”, it is a members experience. One that is not unique.
Do you think the manuals recommendations are based on what is best for performance and the owner?
Or
What might produce the least warranty claimes?
(“Using” extraordinary amounts of oil doesn’t warrant a claim. Having a faulty ring, for eg, actually fail does.)
 

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I’d suggest there is not much thought, understanding or research involved with that statement.

The post you quote and rubbish is not a “story”, it is a members experience. One that is not unique.
Do you think the manuals recommendations are based on what is best for performance and the owner?
Or
What might produce the least warranty claimes?
(“Using” extraordinary amounts of oil doesn’t warrant a claim. Having a faulty ring, for eg, actually fail does.)
The bike must have come faulty from the factory because there's no way in hell that this would happen just becasue you stay under 6000 rpm. The recommendations in the manual are there to ensure that the bike will have a long life. Hard break-ins are only for racing teams that don't care about engine life nor the cost of rebuilding.



 

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If you believe this bs story you must also believe in Santa Claus.

If you break in your bike according to the manual nothing bad will happen because, believe it or not, the engineers that actually designed the engine knows what they talk about.
It’s not a bs story...it’s a true statement and my experience with the bike and the warranty work that was done and what I was informed to due by my husqvarna mechanic and by husqvarna USA. I’m am not the only one who has experienced oil consumption issues with these bikes. I’ve seen numerous cases of the same thing that I have experienced. So with all do respect you can take your statement and shove it where the sun don’t shine.


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The bike must have come faulty from the factory because there's no way in hell that this would happen just becasue you stay under 6000 rpm. The recommendations in the manual are there to ensure that the bike will have a long life. Hard break-ins are only for racing teams that don't care about engine life nor the cost of rebuilding.
You seem to demonstrating an ignorance of the concept.
“Hard break in” does not require using maximum revs. (Though some of us are happy to use what feels ok, on a bike with no tachometer. Rather than somehow applying a low arbitrary rpm limit)
The priorities are: avoiding, as much as possible, idling, constant throttle cruising and “lugging”. While trying for plenty of hard acceleration and engine braking.

Your unsupported statement re “racing teams” indicates you believe a hard break in will produce a performance benefit at the expense of longevity. Interesting.
 

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It’s not a bs story...it’s a true statement and my experience with the bike and the warranty work that was done and what I was informed to due by my husqvarna mechanic and by husqvarna USA. I’m am not the only one who has experienced oil consumption issues with these bikes. I’ve seen numerous cases of the same thing that I have experienced. So with all do respect you can take your statement and shove it where the sun don’t shine.
Butthurt much? Breaking-in the engine by following the recommendations in the manual will not make the "bottom ring wear in funny". Your bike came faulty from the factory. So, bs, just like I said.

You seem to demonstrating an ignorance of the concept.
“Hard break in” does not require using maximum revs. (Though some of us are happy to use what feels ok, on a bike with no tachometer. Rather than somehow applying a low arbitrary rpm limit)
The priorities are: avoiding, as much as possible, idling, constant throttle cruising and “lugging”. While trying for plenty of hard acceleration and engine braking.
You should not talk about ignorance... because what you are describing is not a hard break-in, it's a factory break-in or medium break in where you stay within the recommended rpm's. Hard break-in are running the engine to the redline.
 

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Butthurt much? Breaking-in the engine by following the recommendations in the manual will not make the "bottom ring wear in funny". Your bike came faulty from the factory. So, bs, just like I said.


How do you know this. Did you work on my bike? No you didn’t. Your nothing more than a arrogant keyboard warrior who thinks he/she knows it all. The only bs in here is you. The op asked about break in procedures, oil that was used, and other people’s experiences with the bike so I shared mine. Don’t see how that’s a bs fairy tale as you called it. Butthurt?... not even close.


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How do you know this. Did you work on my bike? No you didn’t. Your nothing more than a arrogant keyboard warrior who thinks he/she knows it all. The only bs in here is you. The op asked about break in procedures, oil that was used, and other people’s experiences with the bike so I shared mine. Don’t see how that’s a bs fairy tale as you called it. Butthurt?... not even close.
How do I know this? Because of the facts, that following the recommendations in the owners manual will not make the "bottom ring wear in funny". If they did it's only because your bike came with a defect from the factory. So once again, your bottom ring did not "wear in funny" because of the recommendations in the manual. Period.
 

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How do I know this? Because of the facts, that following the recommendations in the owners manual will not make the "bottom ring wear in funny". If they did it's only because your bike came with a defect from the factory. So once again, your bottom ring did not "wear in funny" because of the recommendations in the manual. Period.
Lol go troll someone else. I’m done.


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Great topic, but always a few idiots chime in to ruin it for others...

Thanks I didn’t know what oil was delivered in my bikes, but I did remove the original oils and ran them in with motorcycle specific mineral oils for 1,500-2,000 miles, changing the oil and filters many times in that period.
My 690 enduro just got switched over to Full Synthetic oil( Castrol 4T 10/50, using 2 K&P Stainless Steel oil filters, and I already had put in a Dimple oil drain plug/ Magnet. ( have 2 custom magnets in the screens)
I’m a anal Aviation mechanic but trade, and keep my stuff for a long time, I’ve also not invested 15-20K on each of my 701 Supermoto and 690 Enduro to sell them in 2 yrs..

O yea, they use NO oil, and have big power.
 
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