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Great write up and pictures --> some day I will have a husky -
2 questions-- what is the black coating on the piston skirt --
molybdenum (molycoated), its a soft material and reduces friction and heat transfer, helps with dry starts, piston slap, engine longevity. Supposedly.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Great write up and pictures --> some day I will have a husky -
2 questions-- what is the black coating on the piston skirt and what camera did you use --
iPhone 4 on tge HDR setting. Then loaded to photobucketobile.
 

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getting there ...

I have 99% of the parts needed for rebuild - Thanks to this thread I'm "brave" enough to even attempt doing it on my own.

Lord, did I have a lot of problems taking those two bearings out omg, nothing worked, I ordered the same bearing puller, had to grind the arms a bit for them to fit then they broke off ... so today, very desperate and tired of failing ;) I had my dad weld the bearing puller arms to the bearings and VOILA ! those suckers are out !!! ( I hope I didn't mess up completely because ground cable wasn't secured very well and I cooked the case a little :X ) I'll show ya some pics - maybe I should make my own thread :p


Thanks for those picture by picture steps !


Take care


V
 

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I got an easy question,

Piston rings, ... the last one, after its on is it supposed to be sooooo loose ? Or did I murder it and streched it too much while putting itnon ... please help :]
 

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TQ to 27.5 ft/lbs. That is 330" lbs is my math is correct. You must also TQ in crisscross pattern torquing in steps. I did 3 sets of 110" lbs.
In this step you mention that you torqued your head to 27.5 ft-lbs. When a mechanic friend of mine rebuilt my motor I'm pretty sure he wound up torquing my head the same way. Shortly after that my bike developed a leaking head gasket issue. Looking through the manual for my motor I found the following for torquing the heads

"Tighten the cylinder head nuts whilst following a cross-over pattern and in steps to 37 Nm+90 deg. - 3.8 Kgm+90 deg. - 27.5 ft/lb+90 deg. (+ MOLIKOTE HSC)."

It is my interpretation of that excerpt from the manual that the head studs should be torqued to 27.5 ft/lbs in steps and then each of the four nuts should be tightened an additional 90 degrees.

I am curious if the (+ MOLIKOTE HSC) indicates a lubricated torque or a dry torque.

I wound up rebuilding the previously mentioned motor myself and did the 27.5 ft/lbs plus the 90 degrees additional with the head stud greased and had no issues with the head gasket leaking from then on.

Hopefully someone can confirm or deny this for us. Just figured it would suck to get that pretty new motor in the frame and start working it and then have the head gasket leak on you.

Joel
 

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alignment marks on the oil pump

I am just beginning my bottom end rebuild on a sm610. I have not split the cases yet. I have a question about the marks on the oil pump and the marks on the counter balance gear. First the oil pump question. Why are there marks on the oil pump and how should they be realigned during assembly. Same for the marks on the counter balance gear do I just align the two marks or do the marks align to a mark on the case.

thanks
Jeff

p.s. congrats on your rebuild, it is a big job
 

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Once they are in put the spacer and clip on so you don't loose it.
This threw me for a loop! For anyone who has a kick starter (I installed one on my 06 for the track) we don't have this spacer and clip. I thought I lost something. Anyways you have a gear that'll go there with a circlip.
image.jpg
Picture is rotated 90° counterclockwise
It'll go the kickstarted gear at the top left then the gear that meshes with to spin the clutch basket on the primary shaft. Then you'll have another free gear in between the clutch basket and the oil pump to connect the two
 

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Next lets do the shift drum doohickey


The spring is first to go in. The the washer, arm, and the bolt with a bushing. Install and loctite. Make sure you check that the bolt bushing is seated properly in the arm.


Using a small screwdriver pry down the arm and install the plate and Allen bolt thingy. Making sure that it sits in the drum and the pin in the drum is in the slot. TQ to 14.5 ft/lbs and loctite.



Make sure you have the springs. Install the pins, little flap pieces, install in the gear selector.



Install the plate


You should have another tophat bushing. Put a dab if grease on the pin and install the bushing




Grab the shift rod and put a thin coat of grease on the rod, the hole, and the seal on tge other side.
Here's the orientation of the shifting mechanism.
There's a square indent that goes up against the "button" I guess you can call it. I know it's obvious but it's also something that can be overlooked. image.jpg

Another obvious one that could be overlooked is the drum. This side goes into the RH case facing outboard. There will be an indent for that piece that sticks out.

This is the side that'll face the LH case and has a recessed hole for the neutral switch.
image.jpg
 

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Shift fork orientation. The one that goes on the primary side is the short rod and only one fork. The secondary side is the longer rod and two identical looking forks.
image.jpg
The one on the left goes in first. If not, it won't clear the bearing housing where the shift drum sits.
image.jpg
It's easier to leave the rods out until you put the top hot bushings on then the shift drum in. After that you can seat the forks in the shift drum and throw in the rod.
image.jpg
All three forks installed.
image.jpg
 
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