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Discussion Starter #21
I need to remove the cams now. Keep everything in order



Install the head alignment pins in the cylinder.



Head gasket is next up.



Gently slide the head on as you guide the cam chain threw.
Install washers and nuts.


I'm stuck here for my snap on 10mm Allen socket won't fit in the head properly so i can torque it. But a quick spin in the lathe will
handle that. I'll be back at it Sunday.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Tossed the 10mm Allen socket on the lathe.


No more snap on :rant:


TQ to 27.5 ft/lbs. That is 330" lbs is my math is correct. You must also TQ in crisscross pattern torquing in steps. I did 3 sets of 110" lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
"find TDC on the compression stroke" this threw me for a loop. I had to think about it. I even sent a few text. While waiting for a response smoke coming off my head I realized what the shit man!! There is no "compression stroke" yet. The cams are not installed. Fuckibg clowns. Haha anyway find TDC



Put the timing gear on the chain. Try to get the dot aligned on the head.


Slide in the waterpump shaft. Making sure the shaft aligns with the gear. Make sure your still at TDC


Now let's put in the waterpump.


Nah nah just kidding!! Let's put in the RR waterpump

 

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Discussion Starter #26
Put the alignment pins in the waterpump housing. The new seal kept popping out. I smeared a dab of grease and it stayed put.


Install the hose and TQ to 5.8 ft/lbs


Cam chain tensioner. Remove the nut and washer and spring. Install and TQ to 5.8 ft/lbs

 

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You mispelled HUSQVARNA in your thread title! :nutkick: Go fix that, and have Brian make it a sticky.

The steel vs aluminum drum choice: This boils down to performance vs. reliability. Steel drum will last longer, but aluminum drum is lighter and will flick/move a little quicker.

There are also Stainless steel valves in the '09-10 bikes vs. Titanium valves like the '07 and older bikes. If you want reliable street bike, go for Stainless. If you want performance, go for titanium. But go with an aftermarket single piece titanium valve.

a two piece valve means it started as two pieces, the valve head and the stem. Then the two are friction welded together. This makes them cheaper to manufacture (but also weaker) than a one piece valve. I'm not sure, but I assume the Stainless steel valves are two piece.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Jeff that's how the town where Husqvarna was originally spelled. I did that no purpose. It will be made a sticky once complete.

This section was made by DFECKLE on cafe husky and I'm posting it here with his permission.



I finished reinstalling the head yesterday, and I have a couple more observations about assuring the cam timing is correct. It turns out you don't need to mark anything before pulling it all apart--all the marks are there for you already.

There are already some marks on the cam sprocket. The TWO marks on the gear portion of the cam sprocket align with the line on the head to indicate TDC.

Here is the tricky bit I figured out. When at TDC, the OTHER marks on the gear portion of the cam sprocket align with the marks on the cam gears!! The thing is, you can't SEE them aligning at TDC--your vision is obstructed by the head casting. Here's how to use those marks.

1. With the cams out, get the cam sprocket and timing chain reinstalled with the front chain slider and tensioner installed. You probably don't need the tensioner installed for this, but I wanted the maximum accuracy when verifying TDC. With the spark plug out, put something with a long, smooth, thin handle (like an hex wrench) into the spark plug hole so it is resting on the top of the piston. This is your TDC indicator.




Carefully move the engine through a few revolutions to verify the TWO marks align with the mark on the head when the hex wrench stops moving upwards. When you are satisfied that the cam sprocket and timing chain are properly installed, move on to step 2.

2. Use the kickstarter to carefully inch the engine to just before TDC.




When you do this, you will see another mark on the gear portion of the cam sprocket come into view. If the TWO marks are at the 12 o'clock postion, then this mark is at about 2 o'clock. You couldn't see it before since it was obscured by the head casting.

3. Grab the exhaust cam and find the mark on the gear.




While holding the exhaust cam in your hands, mesh the teeth together with the cam sprocket at the marks.



The tooth on one is marked to mesh with the valley on the other.





Now, you can't FULLY mesh the gears at the marks because the cam isn't aligned with its recesses in the head. But, with your hands tilting the cam up a little, you can mesh the edges of the cam teeth. (confused, yet? Good thing I don't write instruction manuals!) When you're sure the marked tooth meshes with the marked valley, "walk" the cam down to its recesses in the head without unmeshing the gears.




You're rolling the cam gear around the gear portion of the cam sprocket until the cam rests in its proper place in the head.




4. Snug down the exhaust cam retaining caps.





5. Carefully turn the engine over with the kickstarter a few times. There should be no interference.

6. Turn the engine over to just AFTER TDC. You should still see the mark on the gear portion of the cam sprocket that aligns with the mark on the intake cam. This mark is at about the 10 o'clock position relative to the two marks.

7. Repeat step 3 with the intake cam.






Snug down the caps.




8. Turn the engine over a few times and put it back to TDC.


9. Remove the left side cam caps so you can reinstall the oil line.




10. Torque the cam caps.


There! Guaranteed cam timing!!
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Im gonna add a tad to that section.
Don't forget the new orings before you install the oil line

The cam cap TQ is 8.7 ft/lbs
Also on the waterpump side of the cam gears there are dots. They should be even with the head surface.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Now let's check the valve clearances
INTAKE .004-.006. .10mm-.15mm
Exhaust .006-.008. .15mm-.20mm

My valves were a tad out but if I went up on the shim they were at minimum so I left them. I did take some pics to show how easy it is.

Using a hook snatch the retaining clip out


Slide the rocker over to the side


Using a MAGNET pull out the shim. Easy as pie
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
Neutral switch spring and pin




Countershaft spacer. Grease it up and make sure the oring is still on the shaft.


New starter oring. This is a straight up bitch to put on.



Drop in the filter, put in the oring, and plug with new washer








Let's not forget the drain plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Well here it is in all it's glory!! 532cc's of all ANIMAL
I hope this thread can help others. I appreciate all that has helped me. sure hope it starts. Lol should be good for another 15k of straight up acting an ass! I learned alot rebuilding this engine and I'm glad I did it. I wonder how fast I can put another 15k on it..
If I had made any mistakes please feel free to correct them so others don't.



 

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Discussion Starter #37
Frank First off Proud of ya bro great job
seckond get that Oring off that big screem
it goes on the cover plate for the screen
there are 2 O rings on the cover plate
That's one bad ass motor
Haha thanks bill! I couldn't remember. I'll fix it today
 

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Go over to the right side we got work to do. First off the free wheel starter gear. Install in this order TQ to 130 ft/lbs and loctite with 243. REMEMBER THIS NUT IS REVERSE THREADS. LEFT TO TIGHTEN
Can I ask how you torqued this without spinning the crank?
 

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Great write up and pictures --> some day I will have a husky -
2 questions-- what is the black coating on the piston skirt and what camera did you use --
 
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