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Discussion Starter #1
First off not sure if I'm "allowed" to spell it huskvarna since that's super old school, but I'm doing it anyway so there!
Second of all... I have been dying to ride my hot rod for months now so I hope you true Huskvarna homies can appreciate the self control I had to slowly put this together and take pics at the same time. Anyway here we go...

First off I do hope if you are rebuilding your engine you replaced all bearings, seals, gaskets ect. So it goes without saying that all of the items were replaced good or bad. Cheap piece if mind. It also goes without saying that All bolts are installed using loctite 243.
I also wanta address a few important things before we start assembly.
The crank spacer. Hopefully you measured you crank before you sent it off for rebuild so they can press it back together to the same dimensions. If not you will need to do some measuring.
Ok these are the main bearing retainer screws. The flush ones are recommended. The raised ones might rub the crank, might not. I'm rebuilding two engines right now. One rubbed one didn't. So I just replaced them all you wil find this out when to install the crank into the right case.


Here are the primary shaft bearing retainer screws. They are very short. If long ones are used you have a good chance of them sticking out the back and causing the starter gears to lock up.

This pic shows what the long screw looks like installed.

 

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Discussion Starter #2
All ready to go.



Get you trans out. Make sure the secondary shaft gear farthest inboard has a washer, needle bearing, gear, washer. The washer will sit on the bearing in the case. The primary shaft does NOT get a washer against the bearing.



Gently install the transmission shafts meshed together. Do not force them. This part might take some time, but you can jack some shit up if your rushing and banging.
Once they are in put the spacer and clip on so you don't loose it.



Take your forks and rod thingys lol and make sure that the "tophat" bushings are on there. Apply some grease so they stick.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I found it easier to install the primary fork first but not the rod. Then install the drum and set the tophat into the middle slot. Then install the rod. Next install the two other forks. Take your time here!!
Also I bought a new shift drum. Husqvarna switched in 09 to a steel drum. Way better than the soft aluminium ones. The price is the same. Around 70 bucks.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Almost ready to assemble the cases. Using a wire brush, scotchbrite, make sure the case mating surfaces are CLEAN. No corrosion or dirt. ESP around the guide pins. I pulled mine out and cleaned them and the hole. Also I ran a tap in all the holes to make sure they were clean. Then wiped the surfaces down with alcohol.



Apply the loctite 510 to the left case half. Don't worry if you get too much because it wipes right off. It only cures in a oxygen free environment. Cool huh. Also get out your mallet or something soft. In this case I'm using a punch made from UHMW rod.



DO NOT FORGET YOUR MOTHER TRUCKING CRANK SPACER!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Take some grease and apply on the bearing races, and shafts, better yet dip the whole engine in it. Haha me like me some bell ray waterproof... Anyway.



Double check the shift forks are all in place and tophats. Set the left case on the right evenly and gently tap the cases together EVENLY. I found if you stay right on where the stator cover goes it works good. It should have a dull pitch to it until the left case is fully seated. If you hear a solid pitch before that time STOP and check it out. More than likely something is caught up. DO NOT install the screws and tighten them to seat the case. This is just asking for it.


Once the cases are together get the 12 45mm long bolts. They are all the same length. One bolt has a copper washer. It goes just aft of the stator area. snug the bolts. These bolts do not get loctite. Once the bolts are tightened in a crisscross pattern at TQ to 5.8 ft/lbs. try and spin the crank. It should spin smooth and the counter ballancer souls be even between the crank lobes. If not try and tap on the case inside the stator area around the bearing. It might take a few good thumps to fully seat the case.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Go over to the right side we got work to do. First off the free wheel starter gear. Install in this order TQ to 130 ft/lbs and loctite with 243. REMEMBER THIS NUT IS REVERSE THREADS. LEFT TO TIGHTEN
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Next lets do the shift drum doohickey


The spring is first to go in. The the washer, arm, and the bolt with a bushing. Install and loctite. Make sure you check that the bolt bushing is seated properly in the arm.


Using a small screwdriver pry down the arm and install the plate and Allen bolt thingy. Making sure that it sits in the drum and the pin in the drum is in the slot. TQ to 14.5 ft/lbs and loctite.



Make sure you have the springs. Install the pins, little flap pieces, install in the gear selector.



Install the plate


You should have another tophat bushing. Put a dab if grease on the pin and install the bushing




Grab the shift rod and put a thin coat of grease on the rod, the hole, and the seal on tge other side.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Next up the clutch. If you haven't already put the thin washer on there do it now.



Install the basket and bushing


Thick washer


Hub, washer, nut, TQ to 55 ft/lbs bend tab up against the nut. Yeah mine is jacked



Now different models have different clutches so the push rod bearing might be different. This is a complete clutch out of a 09 txc 450.
Grab your clutch pack. 8 friction, 7 pressure



When you install the clutch pack play attention to the pressure plates. They are different on each side. One the edges are smooth the other side is sharp. I hop the pic shows this. The sharp side goes inboard.


 

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Discussion Starter #9
Install the cluch pack. There are little groove in the frictions. I believe it's for a tool for removal, but I always just reach in like a man and grab that critter. Much like noodling. Haha


Like I said the clutches differ.



Not sure if you can see this but there are teeth on the inside that need to align. I colored them with a sharpie.


I forgot to take a pic of the outer hub and spring install. Well I'm sure you guys can figure it out. TQ the spring Allen bolts to 5.8 ft/lbs in a crisscross "will make ya Jump jump" manner
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oil pump oring!! I also changed the oil pump. Hell why not I already sold my kidney.


This one too!!


Make sure the mating surface is clean and corrosion free. The alignment pins too. Install that nice new gasket.

Install the cover. Grab your bolts. They are all 25mm long except for the 6ft long obe that goes threw the oil cap and this one bolt. It's a 35mm. These bolts also do not get loctite. Put all the bolts in by hand and make sure they go threw the gasket easily before just tightening them down. This insures that the gasket will center itself.
 

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Wow....Lot of good info:thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Make sure the flat part is facing out



Put the gear on. I tapped it on with a socket.



Bust out your new cam chain and stick it on. I zip tied it to the studs


Install the flywheel key



Flywheel spring and flywheel. Make sure you clean and check the flywheel for bolts ect. They have a nasty habit of pucking up stuff in the shop. install and TQ to 53 ft/lbs
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Oh what's this..


Old piston


Humm that's weird. Maybe the old one was worn more that I thought.


Ok the rings... If you slide the ring above where the oil ring goes, then put the oil ring in and gently work down the top obe it slips right in. Do the same for the bottom




The compression ring is marked N it goes facing up. If you look close you can see a chamfer. Install one wrist pin clip now.


Big fat 532cc animal



Grab some oil and coat the cylinder and piston.
Take note the valve cutouts. The small ones are exhaust and face fwd when installed obviously. Now there are a couple ways to do this but I prefer to set the cylinder upside down on the table and install the piston. This way I can pay close attention to the rings as they go in.



Now flip the jug upside down and set on the studs. Feed the cam chain threw.


Install tge wrist pin and other clip. Be carefully or you will be busting out the magnet. But it isn't going far. Be sure to have the clip cover the half moon part.

 

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Discussion Starter #20
I sent my heads off to have it inspected. Came back from Halls nice and preaty. The valves were even shimmed. Anyway I have to pull the cams, waterpump, timing gear.



New slider.




Waterpump seal


Waterpump oring
 
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