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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In the interest of sharing, here is how I upgraded my '99 YZ400F into a street legal supermoto machine. Now, I know there are a lot of things that people may want to different or better. I just figured I float this out there to help out the new guys who are trying to figure it all out.

I'm including part numbers, some of these are specific to the YZ400, so they won't be good for everybody, so please verify things for your specific application.

What you need..... All part numbers are parts unlimited numbers, unless
noted.

2102-0056 Moose Lighting stator 50w $219.95

2106-0010 Universal turn signal switch $64.95

2001-0081 Acerbis DHH DOT approved headlight (blue) $69.95

BL992-31CH Brake pressure switch (you need 2) $18.95 each]

2010-0174 Integrated LED tail light (For Yam R1) $94.95

K11-0101 Horn $6.95

Other non parts unlimited items

Turn Signals-Lockhart Phillips Short stalk V LED (got them on ebay for
$20)

From Trailtech.....

7003-RR-150W Regulator rectifier $34.95

Lynx speedometer $99.95

040-BATT1.2 Sealed Lead Acid battery $11.95

From autolumination......

I actually bought this ultra bright strobe light set ($5.99) and used
the two Bright LED strips for a license plate light, then I used the
little controll module as a turn signal flasher, you can only do this
if you are using all LED turn signal lights!!


Elsewhere......
Wire, lots of wire. Different colors and styles will help you keep them
straight when making your own wiring harness.

Solder!! I hate butt splices, wire nuts, and tap splices. They suck and
will fail you eventually. Don't trust those god damn things!!!

OK, go empty out your bank account, and get all the stuff, next up is
how to do it all.

More to come!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
OK, so now your broke. Welcome to the club. Now let's start.

First things first. Remove the seat, tank and shrouds, and drain the
engine oil.

OK, lets get it started,

Step 1

OK, let's mount some stuff up!!
Replace the banjo bolts on both master cylinders with the hydraulic
brake light switches.
Find somewhere for the horn, like here...


Mount the Regulator/rectifier. You want to put that somewhere that
doesn't get to hot, but can get hot. The unit dissaptes excess voltage
as heat, so you'll want to mount it something metal. I tucked it behind
the left sideplate. Had to trim the sideplate a little.




Assemble the headlight. I replaced the two bottom bolts with the turn
signal stems.....

Don't put the headlight on the bike yet.

Mount the battery in the airbox. I just used some zip ties to hold it
in there... Put the a long wire on the terminal that is going to get
jammed under the side of the airbox, you won't be able to get at it
once you tuck the battery in there.


I used some epoxy to attach one of the led lights bars to the
underneath of the LED tail light. Then I drilled the fender and put two
screws through the fender. You'll need some long screws (2" maybe)to go
through the little tabs on the light. I used 3 nuts on each screw. The
first gets threaded all the way on the screw, holding it to the fender.
The other two go on either side of the tab. Use a nylon lock nut for
the bottom most screw, That will keep it from vibrating off. After the
light is in place, I drilled down through the fender just behind the
rear tab. Countersink that hole, and use a flat head screw with a
washer and a locknut. Then with a flush surface on the top of the
fender, you can put a sticker over it to hide the fastner!!





Next

Unplug your stock stator's electrical connection, fish the wire loom
out. Remove the stator cover (You may wish that you had drained the oil
at this point if you haven't already done it).
Remove the flywheel, with the appropriate tool, and then remove the
stock stator. Install the new stator, using blue loc-tite on the bolts.
Reassemble.

Now after you plug your new stator in, you will have two yellow wires.
These are your power for the lights. Hook these up to the two yellow
wires on the regulator/rectifier. OK now your left with two wires
coming from the rectifier/regulator.

These Red and black wires are your DC power. Fuse the red wire with a 5
amp fuse (50w stator at 12v. Using
P/(I *E), that gives us 4.1666 amps, 5a should be fine). DO NOT GROUND
THE BLACK WIRE ON THE FRAME!!! While it would cut down on the number of
wires you will need to run, "floating" the ground will provide you with
better power.

Now here is where you may want to improve on what I did. I had used a
small plastic box, cut into the rear fender to house my turn signal
flasher. You might want to attach that somewhere on the headlight
brackets.

I also installed a little keyswitch in the side of the airbox. You'll
want to use a 2 pole switch with 1 set of normally open, and 1 set of
normally closed contacts. Use the normally closed to wire to your kill
swtich, this locks out your ignition for a miniscule level of security.
Use the normally open contacts to break the + terminal from your
battery from the rest of your circuits.

You may be noticing some wierd stuff that isn't in my descriptions. Such as the big blue capacitors behind the headlight, and the small extra turn signals on the headlight. These were portions of "Version 1.0". The caps didn't store enough power to keep the lights going at long stop lights. I orginally used the 2 small LED lights on the headlight. They weren't bright enough, so I added the turn signal stalks. I left them there, and wired in to cover the holes.

Most of the wiring is fairly straight forward.
More to come.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OK, for the ease of explanation, I will use numbers to designate
wires....

Be sure to take you time when wiring, be careful to route wires in a
manner that will not inhibit steering. Keep in mind you may actually
want to get at things like your air filter and such. Plan for these
things in advance. Also I used "wago" connectors. These are hard to
find, but they can help you avoid a lump of confusing spade/bullet/etc
quick connectors. There are things like the headlight that should be
wired such that it is able to be removed. While it's possible to wire
everything in place, you'll be pretty frustrated when the day comes you
have to work on something!!

Personally I wired my bike so that I can pull the entire headlight
assembly, and rear fender from the bike in about 10 mins. With all the
lighting and 90% of the electrical stuff attached to the two, I can
quickly replace them with a 2nd fender, and OEM number plate and be ready for the track!!!

#1 wire negative wire.
goes to.....
- negative side of all lights (Tail, license plate, turn signals,
headlight)
- negative side of horn
- negative side of Trail tech computer optional backlight feed
- negative side of turn signal flasher

#2 wire will be our fused +12v power

+ side of tail light (Running light)
+ side of license plate light
+ side of turn signal flasher
+ feed to handlebar switch for headlight
(on a side note, if your handlebar switch is like mine, the horn switch
goes to a common ground with the kill switch. I disassembled the
handlebar switch, and removed the common ground jumper. I soldered in a
jumper from the 12v constant feed to horn switch. Such that the wire
coming out of the handlebar switch assembly gave you 12v for the horn
output rather than a chassis ground)
One side of NO contact on key switch, (the other side of the key switch
goes to the battery + terminal)
one side of both hydraulic brake light switches
+ feed to Trail tech computer backlight (optional)

#3 wire Brake light
connect this wire from the other side of both hydraulic brake light
switches to the brake light

#4 wire turn signal feed
this wire will go from the turn signal flasher to the common turn
signal switch wire on the handlebar switch

#5 wire Turn signal output Left
Connect between left turn signal return wire form handlebar switch, and
+ wire on left turn signals

#6 wire Turn signal output Right
Connect between right turn signal return wire form handlebar switch,
and + wire on right turn signals

#7 wire Headlight Low
Connect between Low headlight feed from handlebar switch to low beam on
headlight

#8 wire Headlight High
Connect between High headlight feed from handlebar switch to high beam
on headlight

#9 wire Horn
connect between horn output of handlebar switch, to + terminal of horn.

#10 & #11 wires Kill switch wires
connect these from the handlebar switch to where you have removed your
kill switch wires.

Take in mind, I'm doing this all from memory, I may have forgotten
something. If you spot something I missed, please let me know!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Finished product....

 

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Nice resource. Thanks for the info.

But FYI, REAL crimps (not auto parts store junk) are much stronger than soldering. OEMs and custom harness makers for everyone from WRC to F1 to Baja use crimps.

Solder wicks into the wire and makes the connection brittle.

I have myself paid the price of soldered connections on one of my rally cars. Didn't dnf, but certainly lost my class win.

Just some food for thought. :) Carry on.
 

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Thanks a lot for taking the time to post all this. And nice bike!
 

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Excellent stuff whaler!

Just what I needed to read in order to tempt me into registering my YZ450 with DMV. YIKES im in trouble. :D
 

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If you don't mind my asking, where did you get the key switch?
- I'm wanting to put one on my upcoming conversion (2000 WR400)

Also, do you have a picture of the battery in place? I'd like to get an idea of how large it is and how much space is occupied in the airbox.
 

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thats awesome-you got creative

when i got my 426 tagged here i rode it around with no lights until i sold it-luckily the cops mostly are after the sportbikes doign 100+mph through the mountains so i never got hassled
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
hozhead said:
If you don't mind my asking, where did you get the key switch?
- I'm wanting to put one on my upcoming conversion (2000 WR400)

Also, do you have a picture of the battery in place? I'd like to get an idea of how large it is and how much space is occupied in the airbox.
You can see the battery in this picture.....


Again, it's a small sealed lead acid (SLA) battery (2.15"H x 3.82"W x 1.89"D) Grainger industrial supply part number 4RE61.

As far as the keyswitch goes, I'm an elevator mechanic, so getting electrical keyswitches is just a part number away, I'll look around to see where you guys can get them online.
 

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Wow, I see the battery now. I thought the arrow was pointing to show the battery was under the other stuff. I had no idea it was so small. That will work perfectly for me. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
devilisht2003 said:
so everything running good? is the 50w enough? should be with the battery right....
Yeah, everything ia a-ok with the battery in the circuit. It makes up for those times when your sitting at a light, and not making much power.
 

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Great job. Thanks for sharing. I have a 1999 YZ400f that I want to make road legal and this thread will help for sure. can I see some pics of the finished bike?
Heres what I have to work with so far
 

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First time I saw this one,,,,,good post!!!!!!!!!:clap:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
xr450R said:
hey Whaler thanks for the link to this page. (im the guy with the 650r that you posted this link in my other thread) i have a question about brake lights.

can i just hook up a brake light to the stock stator just to get by for now
What kind of brake light are we talking about here? LED or regular ol' lamps?

An LED light will work off of straight AC, but not very well, and not for very long. An LED (Light emitting diode) is just that, a diode. Think of a diode like a plumbing check valve. It only allows postive voltage through it, and blocks the negative side of the AC sine wave. Giving you something like this..

That fast on/off switching will burn up your LEDs quickly, and only give you about 1/2 the voltage your producing. So 12v ac going into the circuit will have the effect of 6 V DC.

Getting a regulator/rectifier will produce a much more friendly power for the LEDs, like this....

You can buy a rectifier at your local radioshack (CLICK HERE). This will give you at least give you unregulated DC (rated at 300w)

If your going with standard lamps, you can get by for the mean time, but I would suggest getting a regulator. A regultor will keep the voltage from getting too high, and drasticly improve lamp service life.

Either way, I would suggest getting a proper rectifier/regulator assembly at some point in the near future.

Good luck, and let me know if I can be of any more help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Keyswitch

I've had a few people PM me and ask me where they could find the DPDT (double pole, double throw) keyswitch I used.

You can find the Keyswitch at McMaster Carr. You want part number 7278K14, it'll run you about $12. Or you can go with the 5056T11, it will cost you about $22, but it's a much more secure switch.
 
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