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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Cleaned the rotors with brake clean before installing ebc's factory replacements (red ones) for a drz400sm, ran up and down my road a few times breaking at different speeds and pressures and let cool. After I let cool I tried to see how fast they would stop me and they didn't at all so I took it on a longer ride maby 2 miles varying braking speeds and pressures and there still absolutely horrible. How long should it be tI'll I get at least somewhat acceptable breaking? Or is it possible that I just bought the wrong brake pads?
 

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Brake pads normally suggest up to 250 miles. You should also use fine grit sandpaper to lightly remove build up from old pads off rotor. Front tire off ground, spin by hand and hold sandpaper against each side of rotor. If your rotor is worn, it can take a good amount of time to bed pads as they develop ripples.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'll give the rotors a sand for sure as I haven't had that many stops on the pads. I was just taken back by the lack of breaking and the fact that I have to drive on the street like this. What do people with track only bikes do? Just take it easy for a couple of days?
 

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Vesrah pads do not need any bed in time and work great. Been using them for 15 years with no issues.
 

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Cleaned the rotors with brake clean before installing ebc's factory replacements (red ones) for a drz400sm, ran up and down my road a few times breaking at different speeds and pressures and let cool. After I let cool I tried to see how fast they would stop me and they didn't at all so I took it on a longer ride maby 2 miles varying braking speeds and pressures and there still absolutely horrible. How long should it be tI'll I get at least somewhat acceptable breaking? Or is it possible that I just bought the wrong brake pads?
if you have any grooves in your rotors, the pads will suck until they bed into the grooves.

if you have like-new rotors.. it should only take a few high speed stops and you're good.

If you've glazed the pads, you can remove them, sand the glaze off, and sand your rotors, then try again.

Dont drag the brakes while riding in an attempt to bed them... thats a sure way to glaze them.
 

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I ride track only, before i hit the track with new pads i brake in the parking lot like 5 times hard. First 3 times often lack power and start to build up then...

Let it cool for 5 and rip it hard all the way after that... Different compounds make a huge difference though... I bought carbon ceramic once because it sounds wicked, but those are not good for agressive braking imo. Im sure they will last ages, but they dont brake as hard as sintered ones on the track... My sintered pads only last about 6 to 8 hours on the track but bite alot harder... Every make has different compounds, maybe you just need to do some homework and try something more agressive?
 

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I ride track only, before i hit the track with new pads i brake in the parking lot like 5 times hard. First 3 times often lack power and start to build up then...

Let it cool for 5 and rip it hard all the way after that... Different compounds make a huge difference though... I bought carbon ceramic once because it sounds wicked, but those are not good for agressive braking imo. Im sure they will last ages, but they dont brake as hard as sintered ones on the track... My sintered pads only last about 6 to 8 hours on the track but bite alot harder... Every make has different compounds, maybe you just need to do some homework and try something more agressive?
sintered brake pads are the only way to go for motorcycles... Everything else sucks for sport-motorcycle use. (not counting carbon brakes.. lol)

EBC HH pads are my recommendation whenever someone asks me about pads...
 

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I wouldn't run EBC pads on a tricycle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I tried to do my homework and was going to go oem. Called dealer, the dealer said they had them in stock, made a long trip to dealer, they said ebc is what they had. I asked about the compound and was told there great breaks and cheaper so I bought them. F.M.L. theres $30 outta my pocket. there isnt as much info on drz sm brakes out there as I would have hoped. Most people say go with ( insert brand name here) and don't mention which compound of said brand. I put oem pads on the first time and a few short stops later it was breaking like a champ. The red EBC pads are just straight hazardous. There's no way I have gotten the pads hot enough to glaze over but maby I just haven't given them enough time. I feel like i would bend the calipers open before the back wheel would come off the ground.
 

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I tried to do my homework and was going to go oem. Called dealer, the dealer said they had them in stock, made a long trip to dealer, they said ebc is what they had. I asked about the compound and was told there great breaks and cheaper so I bought them. F.M.L. theres $30 outta my pocket. there isnt as much info on drz sm brakes out there as I would have hoped. Most people say go with ( insert brand name here) and don't mention which compound of said brand. I put oem pads on the first time and a few short stops later it was breaking like a champ. The red EBC pads are just straight hazardous. There's no way I have gotten the pads hot enough to glaze over but maby I just haven't given them enough time. I feel like i would bend the calipers open before the back wheel would come off the ground.
Thats why I said HH and not RED or green or anything else.
 

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Cleaned the rotors with brake clean before installing ebc's factory replacements (red ones) for a drz400sm, ran up and down my road a few times breaking at different speeds and pressures and let cool. After I let cool I tried to see how fast they would stop me and they didn't at all so I took it on a longer ride maby 2 miles varying braking speeds and pressures and there still absolutely horrible. How long should it be tI'll I get at least somewhat acceptable breaking? Or is it possible that I just bought the wrong brake pads?
You bought the wrong compound. The red are carbon graphite and are dirt pads designed to keep rotor temps low. They have minimal bite.

You wanted the HH compound. Which has way more bite. They also last longer.

My suggestions would be to get the right friction rating pads and thoroughly clean off the red pad material from the rotor surface before using them. This means brake clean and wipe clean with paper towel followed by more brake clean and sanding with fine sand paper followed by more brake clean and wipe with paper towel. You need to get the graphite off the rotor or it will contaminate the new pads. Graphite is a lubricant.

Your bike will be a different machine with the EBC HH pads. No amount of brake in will give the red pads decent initial bite on pavement. They were designed not to have it. They are not even recomended for motocross.
 

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F red pads RITP!
 

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I manage a motorsports company that rents dirt bikes for use in the Desert. I am very familiar with the red pads as we use them in our rental equipment. They work fine in that application. I do not use them in my Motard and would not even consider them even though I have a rack of them on the wall at work. On a dirt vie they are ok particularly in a low traction environment. On pavement, they are not even close to any high coefficient of friction pad. They work ok but they don't have much initial bite which is a biggie in my opinion and require such a high lever effort that you lose feel with them. In my opinion they xxxx on pavement.
 

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I manage a motorsports company that rents dirt bikes for use in the Desert. I am very familiar with the red pads as we use them in our rental equipment. They work fine in that application. I do not use them in my Motard and would not even consider them even though I have a rack of them on the wall at work. On a dirt vie they are ok particularly in a low traction environment. On pavement, they are not even close to any high coefficient of friction pad. They work ok but they don't have much initial bite which is a biggie in my opinion and require such a high lever effort that you lose feel with them. In my opinion they xxxx on pavement.
I would put them on rentals for sure too... Less likely to lock the front, so they're less likely to wreck my rental bikes!
 
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