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Getting the most out of stock DRZ suspension???

44K views 44 replies 22 participants last post by  WFR99 
#1 ·
What's the best way to maximize my stock suspension? I'm a heavy dude (245lbs) so I know that the stock suspension is never gonna get me where I want to be know matter what I do to it, but I don't have the money to upgrade it right now. I'm hoping to atleast make it stiffer than the factory settings, but suspension is really the only realm of motard maintenance that i'm uncomfortable tinkering with. Just wondering what some of you heavier guys are running for a set-up for fairly aggressive street riding and wheelies. Thanks.
 
#2 ·
re-valve and have it set up for your weight?
 
#3 ·
I'm just looking for stock settings man...leaving it on the bike to make adjustments.
 
#4 ·
Supension is an absolute science. If you can'e muster the $ to send it to Dave at Fasbikeindustries, I would check the owners manual and see if you can get the lowdown on stiffenning it up front and rear. AS I recall, the stock DRZ sm suspension on mine was soft for me, and I am 190lbs.....
 
#8 ·
I've never had a sportbike. What did that involve? Oil and springs? Seems like a pretty good price for that? I think I might have to do that. I want to get a re-valve done by FBI, but not sure when I'm going to do that.
 
#10 ·
i have my stock shit still and it work fine and i abuse the shit out of my drz!:thumbup: i just talked to some one who raced motards for along time and basically tightened the hell out of the rear and went stiffer on compression and rebound front clickers. almost close to being maxed out for 195lbs.:anim_peep:
 
#12 ·
although suspension tuning seems very complicated, it's not. All it takes is an understanding of the damping. The key factor is experience as you will need to select a starting point. More experience yo have, the closer your starting point will be hence less work to get it right. Rear shock is harder to work on due to some special equipment involved in order to evac/recharge the shock with nitrogen.

Anyway, start with your rear shock. Suspension is there to support bike and rider, that's where proper sag #s are coming in place. With proper sag, your suspension is setup to perform its best and will actually do its job.
There are two most important parts: spring - support the bike and rider; and damping system - controls the above spring, most importantly on the rebound stroke as that's when spring is really out of control.
If you on the budget, get correct rear spring for your weight as a bare minimum, stock DRZ spring is ok for 170-180lbs rider. Lighter or heavier. new spring is a must. After that stiffen the comp and slow down (turn in) the rebound. It will improve your stability in tarmac corners. Set rebound at about 3/4 closed as a starting point. Same thing for your comp - start with 3/4 closed.
Your rear sag should be 80-90mm (rider sag). To decrease sag, crank in preload adjuster on the spring.
Once rear is some where close to what we need, go to the front. Front forks can be raised about 12-15mm. Make sure you still can access air bleed screws should you elect to raise forks. Same thing for comp/rebound starting points for the front - 3/4 of the full range. No way to adjust preload on your forks without taking them apart but measure the sag anyway. Good # is around 25mm but if you don't have it, don't sweat it. Go and ride the piss out of her. Once you will feel that suspension holds your lap #'s back, go and spend some cash. Until than, $100 for new rear spring and you are in much better shape than before.

Tire pressure - important part of the suspension setup. For our 17's, good # seems to be 20-25lbs
 
#21 ·
I noticed that, but I was just trying to make the point that I don't know what to believe about the stock springs. I've heard on multiple occasions, from multiple sources/people, that the bike is set up for 140 to 160 lbs. ZJeep seems very knowledgeable about this stuff, but that doesn't quite out weigh the number of other times I've heard different. At this point, unless I'm told by a suspension tech, I don't think I'll be completely convinced one way or the other.

Also, since I set the static sag, it hasn't bothered me. It came with 2" of static sag, I changed that to 3/4" based on what I found on here. What's really been bothering me lately is brake dive and over all plushness.
 
#22 ·
i weigh in right under 160 geared up. i've adjust mine 2 clicks in on the rebound front, and 1 on the back, i've also changed my sag, but only by 20mm.. I've had a friend that ride motos all the time get on there 175, and when went back to stock for him and it ran okay, 1 click all the way around better, not there, put the tires at 26psi instead of 24, did it for him, i tried on that set up and noticed, the 2-3psi differents.. it will take time, but you can dail it in.. but the rear spring is 5.5 kg/mm which is right in your range, the front is .44kg/mm and that is gonna be okay for you too, just maybe a lil soft.. hence the two clicks on the rebound..

but if you do get them worked on, do both front and rear, its a completely different feeling.
 
#23 ·
Adjusting in slows it down, correct? I'll give that a try. Hopefully that'll help with that slightly bouncy feeling it gets sometimes.

I run the pressure on my Conti SMs at 22 front and 24 rear, and find that that works very well.

When I do get them done, I plan on doing front and rear.
 
#24 ·
spring just under 5.4kg is ideal for 145lbs rider. Don't forget .1 kg can mean a lot due to rear shock linkage setup. In DRZ's case .1kg/mm translates in 15-20lbs as stock 5.5 is ideal for 165lbs. All of the above without gear.
I wouldn't loose sleep over it as stock setup is not that much out of the spec for you.
Measure rider sag, and then free sag, what do you have?
 
#25 ·
Guys, i am getting ready for my first track day and i'll be using my DRZ-SM.

I just want to adjust the stock suspension to work as well as possible for now.

I weigh 150 lbs nekkid, so with leathers and gear, maybe 170?


From the stock settings on the clickers, should I make adjustment clicks tighter (IN) or looser (OUT) to generally stiffen it up??

What should static bike sag be? Rider sag?

Thanks!
 
#34 ·
So... for my trackday that is in one week, how should i adjust the clickers from the stock baseline settings??

My instinct, and research, suggests that i should tighten up the clickers and thus increase the compression and rebound on the fork and do a similar adjustment to the shock. Would this increase the dampening?

How much sag should there be in the rear shock? Is this adjusted with the preload collar?

Thanks!
 
#27 ·
The DRZ stock suspension is very limited in adjustments and valving.

I roadrace and have top of the line stuff on my roadrace bike. If you are over 200lbs, the DRZ suspension WILL NOT WORK FOR YOU. Doesn't matter how many clicks you screw in.

There is also no preload for the front forks on DRZ's. The only option is to set sag, determine the increase in springrate needed, and swap springs. Let the damping control feel, but you need to set up the springs correctly before clicking anything.

The rear shock is soft and has very little feel. There are aftermarket options on there but if you get the correct spring, and revalve it, you will get good results.

Phenom. There is no way the stock suspension will work for you without $$$$. Ever.

If you do wheelies, you are bottoming out your shock because the stock DRZ spring rate is 308lbs/in. When you are full acceleration, with all your weight plus gear, you are maxing out that shock instantly.

Good luck. Best bet is to get new springs up front to level your sag numbers, and get new spring and valving in the rear.
 
#29 ·
for the most part can dail it in urself, set ur fork height, but you can get most forks&rear shock re worked for about 150 and the rear 100, thats what pro action here charges anyways. and then you'll be right where ya wanna be.
 
#30 · (Edited)
Just save your $$$ and send bike to Dave at www.fastbikeindustries.com. Send him an email or call him. He is a great dude an will explain things properly. His work on my old DRZ,completely transformed the bike!!! Best money I ever spent on that bike. At the time I was 225lbs and I required revalve and repring. He used Race Tech springs. He is an Ohlins dealer. His prices are reasonable and each person is different. Upgrading stock equiptment with revalve/repsring. Expect cost around a new FCR carb. Just ship him the forks and shock and he will return quickly.
 
#35 ·
So I've been messing with my suspension and I have a few more questions:

1) by setting the "compression", you mean high and low-speed damping right?
2) how did you set the preload on the rear shock? The owner's manual says you need a special tool
3) why raise the forks? do you really mean lower them in the triples so you are actually raising the front end?
 
#40 ·
anyone? anyone?
these are all questions concerning what people wrote above.
 
#36 ·
At 190lbs with 1/2 my gear on it is my view that a suspension upgrade will be forthcoming.

I have maxed out the comp settings front and rear (did it last night) and will be testing it today.

If you are looking for another place to go - Excellent suspension shop in Georgia: Traxxion Dynamics. Been at it for a long time and do stellar work.

My biggest issue is a HUGE increase in steering sensitivity at speed. Seems the slightest bit of force creates a hge reaction at 50+ mph and I really have to pay attention at 80+mph


oh and the video posted on the drz suspension... call me strange but I have a real problem with a suspension guru talking about a SM as a dual sport. Does this guy know what he is talking about or can he be lacking knowledge on the machine that badly?
 
#39 ·
As expected, the dive was reduced under heavy braking, stoppies are easier, bike does feel quite a bit more solid but with that comes more feedback in the bars.

Harshness. I can deal with it but I will play with the comp again to dial it in a bit more.
 
#43 ·
This is all great info guys! I was about to ask similar questions. I'm 6'2 240lbs. I just did some stuff to my bike but didn't have a lot of money. I did however purchase a Race Tech 6.0kg rear spring and put everything back to factory manual specs. I haven't been able to ride it since due to LOTS OF RAIN!
 
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