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in this situation where the troubleshoot leads you to back track , i would suggest disabling fuel altogether, then get the motor spinning from the starter, now spray little hits of carby cleaner or cold start spray .... not to much .....keep spinning the motor and spray a little more repetitious ............ if your mechanics and spark is good you almost always get a clean start and little run.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Tried spraying starter fluid into the plug Hole with no reaction what so ever. Then i tried into the airfilter boot, with no reaction. Today i tried giving it alittle throttle while spraying into the airfilter boot, and it popped, and started burning inside the boot. Had to take the filter out and battery out of the way hella quick. Smoke and flames coming from the boot.. almost used a fire extinguiser.. but luckily it stopped burning. I think it was just the starter fluid That ignited inside the boot.. but still.. scary haahh
 

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By your description, it sure sounds like timing.... Ignition, or cam timing. Ignition timing rarely has enough adjustment, that a bike wouldn't start, but it might be something to think about... Cam timing seems more likely. Found this link on the Husky Cafe that may be helpful:
Foolproof Cam Timing | Cafe Husky
As far a starting, especially if it is a hard start/backfire situation (like older cars that have a distributor).... I like to have the air filter out (so if it backfires, it can't start the filter on fire), and also be ready to hit that starter again if it does try light a fire (Suck it back in the engine where it can't hurt anything)... Then as far as adding fuel, take an empty water bottle, fill it with fuel, poke a pin hole in the top... Squeeze the bottle and it shoots a thin almost atomized stream of fuel... you can run an engine all day like this.
Hope something here helps, or at least get you thinking on the right track.... Let us know how you do.
Keith
 

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You don´t need lambda in full exhaust, just get that plug what tell´s ecu you don´t have lambda to start it, it will run lean, it can run too lean, but you can maybe get mapping good with Ibeat i have heard some has done with that, but i wound trust just ibeat, i mean to me when you have full exhaust it need more fuel/air adjust so the next step is PC 5.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I took the cams out yesterday to redo the timing just to be sure. Found out That the timing gear wasn’t adjusted to true tdc. So i got the piston on tdc just as it’s about to go down, and the two dots were not aligned with the mark in the head. About one tooth off. Also made sure i was on the compression stroke by feeling with my finger in the plug Hole for air coming out. So now im sure That the timing is correct. Will try starting today to see
 

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yeah that is that plug what tell´s ECU that is fullpowermode, it will in stock enough for better silencer then stock, where is those cat´s in, but in full exhaust you need to adjust either ibeat or get PC 5. That ibeat adjust is to me to limited, i mean i have heard someone using 530cckit and full exhaust with that ibeat. But i would want to see some fueling maps before i believe it will enough
 

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All depends on the how it will run with that exhaust what you have??

Full or just better silencer, so if it run just fine with full power mode and better silencer, then no need. But if it runs poorly with silencer i would get ibeat program so can make some little fine tune. Also if you have full exhaust and it can run poorly, but not sure how it would run if make fine tune with ibeat. When i have read some say it run good full power mode and better silencer, some say no. But in general advise all depend´s how it will run. When back in the day i was go straight to PC 5, when my plan was go 530cc kit, so can get way better fueling maps..Sorry if this text is little messy
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
ah Okey! I got the double arrow full system. If I get it to start, then I can get it tuned. But until then I guess it’s no point.
Right now I’m just completely stuck. Will change the fuel pump and filter tomorrow to see if it makes a difference..

BUT! After the rebuild, I have a problem that my throttle is not closing. When I disconnect the cables from the throttle body it goes super smooth. But when I fit them to the throttle body, it’s completely stuck if I twist it and it will not snap back. I thought maybe that can cause some problems with the starting.. but I cannot find anything wrong. Maybe I have to disconnect it to see. Any tips?
 

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Ok, you have full exhaust..When get it running, test run in, if back fires or throttle hesitate, you need ibeat or PC 5 and go dyno to adjust mapping. When back in the day Husqvarna was selling full exhaust system with separate ECU, so there is something mapping different´s...Do you have cables right way installeded, only what comming my mind...
 
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