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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello!

I've got a 10' husky smr 510 with 24.000km. Last summer i got an engine knock, here is the link to a video of it.
it isn't that easy to hear, but the sound is alot louder than it appears. Gets louder as the bike revs aswell.
I have to say, i'm not much of a mechanic, but i'll get some help along the way.
I think i have narrowed it down to bearing failure, though i am not intirely sure.
The engine out of the bike, and i'm going to open it up soon.
Bought it used last year, but i have no history in how the bike was maintained beforehand.

1. How do i know if it is bearing failure? For example if it's the main bearing thats gone bad, how do i tell?
2. Additionally, if it is bearing failure, do i then need to replace ALL the engines bearings?

Personally, money is tight at the moment, so a full engine rebuild with all internal parts being replaced is not an option.
Just need to get it going for the moment, without the horrible knocking sound.

Any other suggestions on what a possible cause for the sound might be are greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have an online manual to help guide me through the teardown etc. though i couldn't find information on how to tell if the bearings should be replaced.
Aditionally, i don't want to change all the bearings, just so that the engine can go bad again a couple of weeks later.
Found all the engine bearings online for around $500, fair enough. Also when im in there i thought i could replace all o-rings and seals.
I'll leave a picture of what the drain plug looked like, just to get a sense on how much shavings there were.
Any other tips on what i would need to check besides bearings?
 

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I just had an 1190 v2 ktm motor rebuilt from another guy and I visited when cases was open and I remember playing around with a few bearings as he could not decide to change or not ... With these type of pressed bearings it's sometimes hard to do at home anyway... Experience seems important if not only for the bearings that seem ok....
 

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Sorry, you need in that kilometers whole engine rebuilt, I would not risk it, also when there is that much metal particles in the oil magnet. To me you take those bearing holding "nails" off, you can tap with same size socket, i mean that out ring or some tool to take it out..But here is some good pics what is to do full engine built up, also that one repair manual is good, that one what is shared in web years...
here is some video
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks for the link to the other forum! Very handy to have when i start the teardown. I couldnt see That he listed any parts That he replaced though, except the oil pump. I thought an engine rebuild meant that i had to change ALOT of parts.
Am i in the clear if i just split the cases, check everything, new bearings, o-rings ans seals?
Sorry if it’s a stupid question but i have no experience in engine rebuilds haha.
 

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No problem, there is not stupid questions. I would split cases and see what is there any wear in gearbox gear´s.
Then to see if there is any wears in bearing´s etc. Then when you open case´s i would change new bearing´s, because case´s are open, also i would check connecting rod bearing, is there any play, also i would measure piston rings, check is there is any valve leaks etc...When it sound like your bike engine has not never rebuilt in 24 000km, if i´am right??
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you for the details! It helps alot. I don't know what any previous owners have done to it, but since it has run so good i would think they have taken good care of it. I think the reason for the knocking is my own foult. I waited way to long to change oil, then when the knocking noise came, i changed it and only like 5-6 dl of oil came out. So it had very little oil for a period of time. And from what i have read on the internet, this can cause the bearings to fail. So if im lucky i only need to change the bearings and give the engine a good interal clean.
 

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ok, then it is re-fresh whole engine..But wait where that oil was go, when engine oil capacity is about 1.65L..So you was missing about 1 L, if so what is way too little engine oil. Hope your oil pump is ok..

My advice is this(some say too expensive, too much work)
In 2010 sm510r i was change engine oil´s in about 500-800 km depending your engine rev use, i mean if you are driving normal street, i was change maks 800 km, but if was using full potential from engine/hard driving, i was change 500 km, filter every time. Was using first 8000 km Castrol racing 1 10 w-60 oil, later change to valvoline synpower4T 10 w-50 full synthetic. Never had any issues in 13500 km hard street driving..recommends every 10,000 km full engine built, but it say can change engine oils in every 1000 km or 1500 km(cannot remember) to me that is bullshit, way too long engine oil change cap

In general i was seen this guide from some Husqvarna onwer, to me this is pretty good guide, when thinking these are race engine. In my country factory 2 year warranty conditions were 10,000 km for the entire engine rebuilt, also in Husqvarna own owner manual
-What maintenance HUSQVARNA SMR 450-510 for road use.
(Intended as a max 3 outputs on track annual)
-Oil and oil filter every 1,000 km (15h), you call this..I would not go at this far, i have used about 500-800km, depending on the use of throttle
-Valves check every 5 000 km (60h)
-Piston between 12 000 km and 18 000 km
(dependent on usage, I generally recommend to hole engine built up in 15 000 km if not used for peaceful road use)(approximately 150 hours)
-Piston rod, distribution chain, timing chain skate, bearings in transmission between 18 000 and 20 000 km
(I highly recommend you to make this work when you replace the piston) (200h approx)Some
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So, when i open the engine, i change ALL engine bearings, check connecting rod for play, check piston & piston rings, check cylinder for wear, adjust valves, check gearbox for wear?
Alot of work for a neewbie like me, but i guess it's necessary for these kinds of bikes. I found bearings, pistonrings, gaskets, oil seals and o-rings from a dealer in my country. For all of this they wanted $980. And if i need to change the connecting rod and piston aswell this will be $2260. Holy shit, these prices are wild haha.
When i first bought the bike i read online that the oil change interval was 1500-3000km. The last oil change i stretched very far, around 3k i think. This is when i noticed the oil was too low. So from here on i will change the oil every 500-800km no problem. I don't want anything like this to happen again haha. Also i should check the oil pump for damage since it was little oil in the engine? Any tips on how to check this?.
BTW, i really appreciate you taking your time to answer these questions <3
 

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Also don´t use that engine any more, when it can blow, i mean some engine part can come out from engine casing..

When i first bought the bike i read online that the oil change interval was 1500-3000 km. The last oil change i stretched very far, around 3k i think.
Sorry, but holy shit that is long oil service cap...:eek::eek::eek:

My brother had in about 12 000 km, was gearbox blow and that metal stuff was going every place, so full engine rebuilt it was costing about 2000€. Also when there is time to do my Husky full engine rebuilt it will cost about 2000€.
This bike was sold for me right away in 2010 when i was seen it, i love that looks and it is good bike, also back then service´s, parts was easy to get and relatively cheap.

If that is like rotor style engine oil pump (cannot remember any more), i would check in youtube if there is some info, dosent matter if is same as car is. When the style is same. But is there any wear marks in the rotors, if there is and you can feel those in your nails, something was coming through from there, yeah check all, when i that metal shavings has rotate in the engine some time, there can be some damage. Also when doing this check that connecting rod play
Here is good video to show that
Here is some how engine oil pump

Keep updates in here, so others can see, also i´am very interest to see what is happen..
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Thanks for the input!
I've done some reading about rattling noise.
Low oil can cause rattling noise. And since the oil level most likely was low over a period of time, this might be the answer. But does that cause metal shavings aswell?
Bearings start to decay way faster when there is less lubrication, which can also cause knocking and rattling sound + metal shavings.

So my theory is, low oil caused rattling noise, which then caused bearings to fail and give metal shavings.

I'm no mechanic but does this sound like a possible good theory?
If so, the fix would be to open the engine, change bearings (whilst looking over everything else), then assemble it and try to start it.
 

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Dad Bod Super Model
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Just from the shavings on the plug i would want to check the internals. Once you are splitting the case it is a good opportunity to replace bearings. They may be good now but it would really suck to replace one or two and have to go back in for others next year.
 

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Dad Bod Super Model
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Yeah, it is the safe option. That was a lot of shavings. You will want to check the cylinder bores as well. They should have a nice cross hatch pattern to them and I suspect you are going to find they are smooth & possibly worn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes, i will definitely check the cylinder for wear, aswell as piston & connecting rod. Fortunatley i can hone the cylinder myself if it's necessary. Im just praying that all it takes is a good internal clean and new bearings.
 

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What i have seen usually, from bad bearing´s there is very small flakes metal particles, so those looks pretty big ones and to me not normal wear and tear. I remember when i was running in new engine, when buying my Husky. There was little metal flakes due engine was running in period, but not that much. When my brother gearbox was go bad, there was way more metal flakes/big junk..Also in car engine world, usually if crankshaft bearings wear broken, engine is total. I mean if need very accurate cleaning to get out all those small flakes. But you can see it when you are open engine...

I will say the engine is not lost yet..
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The flakes are not that big, but there are very many of them. Also, inside the engine, behind clutch cover if i run my finger on the bottom end, my fingers gets shiny from all the tiny metal shavings. So far i've not found any concerning bits of metal (size wise). Will open the engine on tuesday to get a better look on the top end atleast. Check out the play in the rod etc.

Know any places i can get a kit with all engine bearings? Also a kit with all engine gaskets and seals?
In Norway, i've only found ONE store that keeps an inventory and can order parts for this bike, but they don't have kits. So i have to order every bearing and gasket seperatly.
 
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