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Discussion Starter #24
This kind of a silly question.
Taken out of the cylinder head and the cylinder away from the motor when the motor is attached to the frame:headscrat
I'm not sure if you can pull the cylinder With tge engine in or not. Actually no because you can't remove tge head
 

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I'm not sure if you can pull the cylinder With tge engine in or not. Actually no because you can't remove tge head
ok thanks for your reply.
So take engine from the frame first, then disassembly cylinder head/cylinder from the engine, right:headscrat
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I thought I should ad this as I discovered one missing from my motor yesterday. And at 15 bucks apiece, possible assembly without it, so I thought I would post it up. With the cases split the shafts holding the transmission fork can slid out causing the nub that sits in the shift drum to come out. This is a easy part to loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Ok to remove the counter ballancer bearing. You will need a pilot bearing puller. I bought this snap one one today. I will need to modify it but I worked ok. You must make sure the tool is centered on the bearing and the feet are even and flat on the case.


 

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Discussion Starter #28
Just doing some odds and ends until the rest of the bearings show up. Notice the yellow stuff? It's a special type of non drying epoxy primer. I'm using it to prevent any corrosion caused by disimaliar metals. (steel bolt, aluminum case) I like how the fresh powdercoating came out.

 

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Discussion Starter #31
Well I pulled a boner move and nicked up my shift drum good. So I got a new one on order. Here is the deal... From 04-2009 the shift drum is billet aluminum. Cost around 80.00 in 2010 they went to a steel drum. Cost 80.00. So naturally I went with the steel drum.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Attention.... I thought this was worth a pic and explanation so nobody makes an very easily overlooked mistake. When you are change all your bearings you will most likely take them all out at once. Or at least the bearing retainer screws and retainers. Since they can only go in one way. This is all fine and dandy, however all the screws are the same length EXCEPT for two as you can see. Now these two screws belong to the secondary shaft bearing retainer. I purposely put the long ones in to show you what will happen. The screw will stick out to far and will bind the starter gears. So just remember this on installation. Hope this helps.


 

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Thanks a lot for the pics...doing a complete teardown on my 9000 mile husky this week. Broke a gear tooth off somewhere in the tranny but nothings blown. Guaranteed my cylinder will look like this due the the fact that these bikes are incredibly reliable and built super strong. I appreciate your time as this will be my first huksy teardown (done many asian motocross bikes). Tear it up!
 

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Did you replace any of the factory helicoils with time-serts while you were in there? I ask because I had one of the helicoils decide it didn't like being in it's hole during one of my oil changes.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Did you replace any of the factory helicoils with time-serts while you were in there? I ask because I had one of the helicoils decide it didn't like being in it's hole during one of my oil changes.
What factory helicoil? I didn't see single one and I ran a tap tree every bolt hole
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Humm I'll double check when I get home. Are you the only owner? I do know the screen cover and other area get stripped easily so a helicoil isn't uncommon.

Thank you! It's been a long time coming. I'm starting tge assembly thread today. Makes the job much slower lol but I hope it's helpful to others in tge future
 

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Humm I'll double check when I get home. Are you the only owner? I do know the screen cover and other area get stripped easily so a helicoil isn't uncommon.

Thank you! It's been a long time coming. I'm starting tge assembly thread today. Makes the job much slower lol but I hope it's helpful to others in tge future
Yup...original owner. Trust me...I was completely baffled when it "cross threaded" with only my finger power, then pulled out the helicoil like a stretched spring. Luckily my local Napa had the time-sert kit I needed in stock.
 

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Hey back again....I started the teardown of my 06 husky and im stuck at one little spot: I cant for the life of me get the cam chain gear off the crank shaft. How did you go about doing this to your bike? I was pleased to find that my cylinder is still cross hatched like yours, I pulled apart the valves and the seats are perfect, no cupping, and the ring end gap is perfect. This motor has 10000 miles on stock everything. Pretty neat seeing how good the husky quality is....thanks!
 
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