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Discussion Starter #1
'Tis the season for more Mods. Been over the road for 5 months (Gag!). Had a ton of stuff at my UPS Store box. Got the bike stripped down. Ton of mods and fabrication to be done. Also the bike has not been started in 5 months due to me being gone. I though the Moty battery would surely be dead but upon checking it, it had 13.5 volts!! Fired up just fine. This is the absolute best battery I have ever used.I will post pics and give updates as I get things done. Follow along.




 

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One of the advantages of LiFePO batteries is that the self discharge rate is extremely low - I've been told around 10%/year, vs around 10%/month for a typical lead acid. They also have significantly lower internal resistance, allowing a battery with a much lower capacity for low-rate discharge to act like a bigger battery for starting a bike. A LiFePO battery with a 14Ah EQ rating will only put out around 1/3 of that if it's a slow draw, but it'll start a bike just as well as a 14Ah lead acid. That means that they're very light (duh) but also more susceptible to parasitic drains, but if you don't have any, you can let the bike sit approximately forever and it should still crank hard.
 

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I will say bro your DRZ is sick props to you because i think DRZs are not the best looking imo. i need to check on these batteries i guess because i have never heard of them. :clap:
 

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Discussion Starter #5


Got the wheels laced, back from the shop. I'm sooooo glad I bought the RADMfg Hubs, spokes and nipples a few short months before they went out of business. Didn't see that coming. I made the mistake of taking the wheels to a small motorcycle shop to dismount the tire and the guy ended up using pry bars and tires spoons very carelessly which scraped up the inner part of the rim and a spot on the front of the rim. Lesson learned was stay away from hack mechanics. If you want something done right just buys the tools, watch a couple of YouTube videos and just do it yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #6


Ditching the DRZ sticker. Too common. Want to look different. Also ditching the Turkey Baster Mod in favor of upgrading to Evans coolant.
 

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While Evans won't boil over, it will result in the bike running significantly warmer. With it, it's possible to cook your engine with no real warning signs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
While Evans won't boil over, it will result in the bike running significantly warmer. With it, it's possible to cook your engine with no real warning signs.
You are correct about Evans allowing the engine to run significantly warmer but it is because of the fact that it will not boil over that makes it safer than regular coolant. When regular coolant boils over engine temps skyrocket because the coolant is actually being forced away from the coolant walls which does not allow the coolant to exchange heat. I have heard great things about Evans from several different sources. Plenty of racers using it too. This is the first time I will be using it so we will see.
 

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When regular coolant boils over, you typically know. If you don't notice and keep riding, it's absolutely worse to ride without normal coolant than with very hot Evans.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Updates

Mounted the FPS oversized radiators and Samco Silicone hoses. Hose color is what Samco calls "Gunmetal".


 

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Discussion Starter #11
Rear Brake Caliper Mount

Cut the unnecessary tabs off of the rear brake caliper mount. The two bottom tabs were for mounting a disc guard and the two top tabs were for mounting a caliper protector.

 

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Discussion Starter #12
Levers

Drilled holes in the levers for lightweight and looks. Did it by hand so the holes are not perfect. Really need a drill press.

 

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Discussion Starter #14
Side gapped a new spark plug to go along with the Dynatek stick coil. The coil is for a Hayabusa and is within specs for the electrical primary resistance. The Denso coil adapter plug was purchased from a place down in Florida that specializes in Mustangs. I can't remember the name though. The coil was purchased from DennisKirk.com. This is an experiment so try at your own risk. Also, I closed the gap up after the picture was taken to .021 versus the stock .028 - .032



 

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Discussion Starter #16
Tried the CRF rear master cylinder mod. Because I am using aftermarket Ebay larger than normal clutch cover, my brake pedal has to sit outward slightly for clearance. Because of this, I had to modify the master cylinder mounting a bit. I also cut the stock reservoir mounting tab and the brake lever brake light actuator since I will be using an inline brake light actuator. Although not pictured, once I put everything together and tested the rear brake lever, I did not like the new amount of brake pedal travel. I got online and researched this mod and others have commented on this characteristic that comes along with this mod due to the smaller bore. I will be ditching this idea and I have found a 1/2 bore rear master cylinder with a built in reservoir on Ebay for less than $10 bucks! Looks like it uses the same mounting screw spacing. I will post more on that once I research it more.


 

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Discussion Starter #18
Bought a case cover from ThumperTalk and cut it down to the area that would protect the case from the shifter if a crash were to occur. Sticker bombed it and then used adhesive silicone to attach it to the case.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I already had the lightweight Yoshimura engine mounts on the bike but I decided to mod them. I used a Dremel on the front mounts and a drill bit and countersink on the upper mounts. The Dremel could only do so much so I took them to a mill shop and had them cleaned up a bit. I then sent them to the powdercoater with some other parts.



 
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