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Discussion Starter #1
Hello my fellow supermoto lovers,
I ran into an issue with my brakes on my 2007 DRZ400SM. I noticed my pads were getting pretty thin up front and in the rear. I ordered new pads for front and rear, they are DP Sintered pads. All i did was a pad swap. With the new brakes installed, i noticed the rear brakes work quite a bit better, locking the rear wheel easier than before. the front brakes however, are not nearly as good. i used to be able to lift the rear tire and do a stoppie no problem before, even with low brake life. Now when i get on the front real hard, i can actually hear the brakes and "feel" the friction to say. they stop decent, but i cant even lift the rear tire. it is not comforting to hear this new wierd noise coming from the front pads. is there a brake in period, and this will just kind of go away? what could be cause this? are these decent pads? i bought them from the suzuki dealer and paid $40 front and $40 rear... please help!!!:headscrat
 

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Are the pads in there secure? Are they tilted at all? Did you get any cleaning solutions/wd40/chain lube on them? My MXS sintered pads had no break in period ad stopped really well compared to stock as soon as I put them on. Sintered pads are a bit louder due to the material used to make them.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
they feel very secure to me. i even used the little clip things that are supposed to take out any brake clatter (I usually dont do this with vehicles because they are a pain but this is my baby) i was extreamly careful not to get debree on the brakes including even touching the rotors too much, ill try cleaning them though. any other ideas? (just had an after thought.... maybe that clip thing is getting in the way and not letting the entire pad come into perfect contact with the rotor, ill pull it apart and check!)
 

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Have you bedded them in yet, or just put a few miles on them?
 

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Well?......Did you get it squared away?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i rode last night, its starting to feel better. HPI guy, i did not bed them in. not sure what that is. just break in? I talked to a friend that rides motorcross and he said he always brakes in his brakes and he wont even go to the track with a brand new set of pads. he said rotors will get groves and the new pads need to break into those groves and they should start getting progressivly better. what do you guys think. i have noticed they are getting a little better, just not what i expected so far. thank you guys in advanced for any help and advise
 

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i rode last night, its starting to feel better. HPI guy, i did not bed them in. not sure what that is. just break in? I talked to a friend that rides motorcross and he said he always brakes in his brakes and he wont even go to the track with a brand new set of pads. he said rotors will get groves and the new pads need to break into those groves and they should start getting progressivly better. what do you guys think. i have noticed they are getting a little better, just not what i expected so far. thank you guys in advanced for any help and advise
Yeah, your friend is dead on. This is from EBC, but the same applies to all brake pads. They'll get better, just give them time.

Bedding in Procedures with for Street use.
Worn discs or rotors dramatically extend bed in time and will reduce brake effect severely until pads bedded in. Ride SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY after installing new brakes until you are satisfied brakes are performing to your total satisfaction.
Bedding in procedure for Road Race use.
Please note ….There is NO WARRANTY on any EBC product used in Racing.
To bed in brakes with new rotors, undertake this in a practice session and allow 20 medium speed "snubs" at 10 second intervals scrubbing off speed from 90 MPH to 60 MPH followed by 10 snubs taking speed from 110 MPH to 60 MPH again with 10 second intervals. This will avoid rotor pick up. If rotors are pre -conditioned against sintered pads and perfectly flat, bed in time for PADS ONLY can normally be achieved within two warm up laps with 7-10 snubs from 110 MPH to 60 MPH. Bed in time depends on rotor condition, allow longer bed in for even slightest dishing of rotors. If you have previously used carbon based pads you MUST Scratchpad or sand rotors lightly to remove carbon coating.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks for the help. do you think that maybe the previous owner had put on the carbon pads or whatever? what do those look like? do you think i would need to sand the rotor?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Brakes are starting to work vey well. lifts the back tire no problem. thanks for everyones help. I now have a flat rear tire with about 90% tread left... found a place that will patch it because its small, what do you guys think about that?
 

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Brakes are starting to work vey well. lifts the back tire no problem. thanks for everyones help. I now have a flat rear tire with about 90% tread left... found a place that will patch it because its small, what do you guys think about that?
NO! New tube, without question, IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
NO! New tube, without question, IMHO.
I run Pilot powers, they are a tubless tire. so its actually a patch on the tire. Another pilot is out till mid sept. I was going to run a new dunlop but it is a dual compound and i was told not to mix compounds (the pilots are a single compund, and i deffinetly dont wanna buy two new tires when both of these are 90%). still no patch you think? if i do end up replacing both tires, i want to go with either the dunlap Q2's or the new pilot power 2ct. both are dual compounds. they only come in 160/60R17. my current tire is a 150/60R17. will these clear the chain and swing arm? thank you for your help, im sure a lot of this is comoon knowlege im just farily new to this stuff and i dont want to make the wrong moves, especially when were talkin about spending a couple hundred dollars.
 

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I've run tire plugs on two occasions, no problem. I had about 4k miles on the last one and it never leaked.
 

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I run Pilot powers, they are a tubless tire. so its actually a patch on the tire. Another pilot is out till mid sept. I was going to run a new dunlop but it is a dual compound and i was told not to mix compounds (the pilots are a single compund, and i deffinetly dont wanna buy two new tires when both of these are 90%). still no patch you think? if i do end up replacing both tires, i want to go with either the dunlap Q2's or the new pilot power 2ct. both are dual compounds. they only come in 160/60R17. my current tire is a 150/60R17. will these clear the chain and swing arm? thank you for your help, im sure a lot of this is comoon knowlege im just farily new to this stuff and i dont want to make the wrong moves, especially when were talkin about spending a couple hundred dollars.
Yes, I run them too, or at least I did until this past weekend anyway. Unless you've done the tubeless mod, you have a tube in there, as most spoked wheels do. I personally would rather shell out $20 for a tube, but that's just my opinion.
 

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+1.....you have tube in there.....In my experience, the DOT Michelins run kinda wide. I ran a 150 Pilot power on my DRZ and It was the same width as my Maxxis Goldspeed 160's. I would stick with the 150 size.
 
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