SuperMoto Junkie banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been converting my 1994 dr350se to a SM setup using gs500 wheels. I have some technical questions about the swap for anyone who has done it. Based on my research I need the following.

Rear Wheel:
1.Machine 5mm off rotor mounting surface.
2. Turn rotor to 220mm diameter and 4mm thickness
3. Grind cush drive bearing carrier to flush with bearing.
4. Make Spacers

Front wheel:
1. Make brake relocation bracket (Check)
2. Make spacers.

My main questions are about the spacer width and if my measurements are correct concerning the rear wheel machining. Also, what bearing to use in the rear wheel cush drive. Any help would be awesome. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,386 Posts
I've been converting my 1994 dr350se to a SM setup using gs500 wheels. I have some technical questions about the swap for anyone who has done it. Based on my research I need the following.

Rear Wheel:
1.Machine 5mm off rotor mounting surface.
2. Turn rotor to 220mm diameter and 4mm thickness
3. Grind cush drive bearing carrier to flush with bearing.
4. Make Spacers

Front wheel:
1. Make brake relocation bracket (Check)
2. Make spacers.

My main questions are about the spacer width and if my measurements are correct concerning the rear wheel machining. Also, what bearing to use in the rear wheel cush drive. Any help would be awesome. Thanks!

rear wheel:
1) i don't know how much, i'm not familliar with the bearing stack up of the stock dr350 wheels. see later comment about stackups.
2) shouldn't need to change the thickness, the caliper cant float left/right as needed, the rotor's OD should be the only issue from the gs500 wheels, and i believe your 220 mm is correct.
3) yes
4) yes, you can use black steel pipe from lowes and a regular pipe cutter, just keep it wet with lubricant and go slow. i managed to get within .003" of what I wanted with a little patience. :)


front wheel:
1) COOL, you did it yourself ? that's one of the most difficult thngs to get right. congrats !
2) yeppers, see comment about black pipe. :)



i don't know what the bearing stack up width (bearing face to bearing face) is on the stock dr350s rear wheel off hand.

because I don't, I would suggest you measure (or find a friend with machinist/measuring skills) to measure the full stack width from bearing face (left) to bearing face (right) on both sets of wheels. it makes "what needs to be changed here/there" so much easier to put onto paper that way. the closer you are with the measurements the easier it will be to install/remove the rear wheel each time you change tires.


here are the bearing sizes/numbers FOR A GS500 FRONT WHEEL and GS400 (BANDIT) REAR WHEEL, BUT USING THE GS500 CUSH DRIVE that I purchased at Motion Industries. PLEASE make sure you are using the same axle diameters as the drz400 axle, or THESE BEARING SIZES WILL BE WRONG for your application:


Bearings (picked up locally from Motion Industries, $42 for all 5)
Brand: The General
Front: 6004-88-30e or 60042rse
Rear: 6206-88-30e or 62042rse
Cush Drive Hub: 6206-88-30e or 62062rse


keep in mind i don't know if the drz and dr axles are the same diameter ! i really don't want to steer you wrong, but some of this information will apply to your setup. :)




and, your bike is going to ROCK on street tires. let me know if i can help more :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
rear wheel:
1) i don't know how much, i'm not familliar with the bearing stack up of the stock dr350 wheels. see later comment about stackups.
2) shouldn't need to change the thickness, the caliper cant float left/right as needed, the rotor's OD should be the only issue from the gs500 wheels, and i believe your 220 mm is correct.
3) yes
4) yes, you can use black steel pipe from lowes and a regular pipe cutter, just keep it wet with lubricant and go slow. i managed to get within .003" of what I wanted with a little patience. :)


front wheel:
1) COOL, you did it yourself ? that's one of the most difficult thngs to get right. congrats !
2) yeppers, see comment about black pipe. :)



i don't know what the bearing stack up width (bearing face to bearing face) is on the stock dr350s rear wheel off hand.

because I don't, I would suggest you measure (or find a friend with machinist/measuring skills) to measure the full stack width from bearing face (left) to bearing face (right) on both sets of wheels. it makes "what needs to be changed here/there" so much easier to put onto paper that way. the closer you are with the measurements the easier it will be to install/remove the rear wheel each time you change tires.


here are the bearing sizes/numbers FOR A GS500 FRONT WHEEL and GS400 (BANDIT) REAR WHEEL, BUT USING THE GS500 CUSH DRIVE that I purchased at Motion Industries. PLEASE make sure you are using the same axle diameters as the drz400 axle, or THESE BEARING SIZES WILL BE WRONG for your application:


Bearings (picked up locally from Motion Industries, $42 for all 5)
Brand: The General
Front: 6004-88-30e or 60042rse
Rear: 6206-88-30e or 62042rse
Cush Drive Hub: 6206-88-30e or 62062rse


keep in mind i don't know if the drz and dr axles are the same diameter ! i really don't want to steer you wrong, but some of this information will apply to your setup. :)




and, your bike is going to ROCK on street tires. let me know if i can help more :)
Thanks for the quick reply. I'm glad I can cut my own spacers out of steel pipe. That will definitely save me money at the shop. If all goes good, it'll be ready by the weekend and I'll post up pics!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
She's all done! glad I finished this swap. Gets tons of looks. The gearing is off and they are a bit heavier, but on road the bike is super fun!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
nice job on it. looks like you've spent a lot of time cleaning up the bike prior to the hooliganizing.


how's it handle ?
what tires are you using (sizes too) ?


any future plans ?

rock on :)
Sorry I've been real busy the past few weeks. She handles real good. Never do I feel like I may lowside. The rear is a 130 Michelin pilot activ, the front is a 110. I would like a bit wider, but who cares. I have like 400 in the whole setup! The rings are going in the bike so the 385 kit is coming! I plan to convert to a maier rear fender, get a tm33 pumper carb, vapor trailtech, 41 tooth rear sprocket, toss the clark 4.2 gallon for a late model plastic oem tank, handguards, custom axle sliders are in the works, etc. If anyone has questions, feel free to ask!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Sorry I've been real busy the past few weeks. She handles real good. Never do I feel like I may lowside. The rear is a 130 Michelin pilot activ, the front is a 110. I would like a bit wider, but who cares. I have like 400 in the whole setup! The rings are going in the bike so the 385 kit is coming! I plan to convert to a maier rear fender, get a tm33 pumper carb, vapor trailtech, 41 tooth rear sprocket, toss the clark 4.2 gallon for a late model plastic oem tank, handguards, custom axle sliders are in the works, etc. If anyone has questions, feel free to ask!

Hey this is actually my first post, new to this. I picked up a 1995 dr350 over the summer with the intention of doing the gs wheel conversion so far I have sourced the wheels, they came with front and rear rotors but not come with a crush drive. I plan on using a katana front rotor, so I don't have to make a relocation bracket. I will be trying to do as much of the work myself but I don't have access to a machine shop and I am trying to keep the cost as low as I can

1. What is my best option for the front axle what is required in using the gs axle and what is required if I stick to the Dr axle?

2. What spacers do I use for the front and rear I plan to try to cut them out of black pipe will that be of for the spacers in between the Bearings? What is my best bet?

3. I live in NJ does anyone know a machinist in driving distance that is familar with the machining required is. The rear rotor and hub on rotor side of the rear wheel

Any help would be very much appreciated I have been studying all available info on the swap please help me out
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey this is actually my first post, new to this. I picked up a 1995 dr350 over the summer with the intention of doing the gs wheel conversion so far I have sourced the wheels, they came with front and rear rotors but not come with a crush drive. I plan on using a katana front rotor, so I don't have to make a relocation bracket. I will be trying to do as much of the work myself but I don't have access to a machine shop and I am trying to keep the cost as low as I can

1. What is my best option for the front axle what is required in using the gs axle and what is required if I stick to the Dr axle?

2. What spacers do I use for the front and rear I plan to try to cut them out of black pipe will that be of for the spacers in between the Bearings? What is my best bet?

3. I live in NJ does anyone know a machinist in driving distance that is familar with the machining required is. The rear rotor and hub on rotor side of the rear wheel

Any help would be very much appreciated I have been studying all available info on the swap please help me out
First of all, The Katana front rotor is still 290mm compared to the dr's 240mm I believe. Or at least mine is, I can measure this evening. Both setups will require a relocation bracket unless you have it turned down.

1. Stock dr front axle is fine with stock gs bearings.

2. Use black steel pipe for spacers. I actually cut mine with an angle grinder. Just make sure your wheel is centered and you use the machine cut side on the bearing race.

3. I don't know NJ but a good machinist can set you up for about $200 worth of work. If you need specifics, feel free to comment on here. I wish I had someone to tell me how to do it. My swap went from June to January but was mainly from a lack of information.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
After having this wheel setup for over a month, here are my comments. These wheels are heavy, but the bike handles awesome. If you love jumping your dr, look elsewhere. These cast wheels aren't made to hit jumps or bash curbs, they will break and or bend. Don't expect a super wide tire profile. The best setup on these is a 110 front and 130 rear. Here are my prices of everything

$75- 1997 Gs500 front wheel and tire from ebay
$75- 2007 Gs500 Rear wheel and tire from ebay.
$25- Katana front rotor
$20- Rear bearing kit
$20- Miscellaneous bolts, screws, etc.
$200- Machine work.
$5.00 - Tire dismount
$20- tire mount and balance
$7.00 loctite
$5.00 Angle Grinder blade to cut the spacers
(Brake bracket material was free)

Estimated total: $452.00

However... If you have the money, get your stock hubs laced to Excels or Warp9's.
With this setup, the dr doesn't like highway speeds.
Wheelies are a bitch to pull up now.
But it handles amazing
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
First of all, The Katana front rotor is still 290mm compared to the dr's 240mm I believe. Or at least mine is, I can measure this evening. Both setups will require a relocation bracket unless you have it turned down.

1. Stock dr front axle is fine with stock gs bearings.

2. Use black steel pipe for spacers. I actually cut mine with an angle grinder. Just make sure your wheel is centered and you use the machine cut side on the bearing race.

3. I don't know NJ but a good machinist can set you up for about $200 worth of work. If you need specifics, feel free to comment on here. I wish I had someone to tell me how to do it. My swap went from June to January but was mainly from a lack of information.
Thanks for the reply, any specifics you can give me with the machining would be great. From what I know its rear machined on rotor side 5mm. Rotor cut and thined.... Not sure about sprocket and chain? For the front I guess if I need to fab a relocation bracket any way I guess I will use the stock gs rotor. I am still a little confused about which axle to use in the front. I'm sorry to bother u but I'm feeling that lack of information u described
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the reply, any specifics you can give me with the machining would be great. From what I know its rear machined on rotor side 5mm. Rotor cut and thined.... Not sure about sprocket and chain? For the front I guess if I need to fab a relocation bracket any way I guess I will use the stock gs rotor. I am still a little confused about which axle to use in the front. I'm sorry to bother u but I'm feeling that lack of information u described
If you have a pre 1998 dr350, you can use the stock dr350 front axle. It should be 15mm. You will use the OEM GS500 front wheel bearings. Spacers can be cut out of black steel pipe. I think I used 3/8".

For the rear wheel. 5mm needs taken off of the brake side of the hub. The rear disc will need thinned to 4mm thickness and turned to 220mm outside diameter. You will need to use the bearing load spacer from the dr350 cush drive wheel or cut one yourself that is the same width as the bearing spacer on the gs500 rear wheel. For wheel bearings, you will need to order 2 sets of rear wheel bearings for the dr, as only one of the 3 bearings fits. Therefore you will have some leftover. Or a bearing shop can hook you up. Let me know if you need anymore information.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
After having this wheel setup for over a month, here are my comments. These wheels are heavy, but the bike handles awesome. If you love jumping your dr, look elsewhere. These cast wheels aren't made to hit jumps or bash curbs, they will break and or bend. Don't expect a super wide tire profile. The best setup on these is a 110 front and 130 rear. Here are my prices of everything

$75- 1997 Gs500 front wheel and tire from ebay
$75- 2007 Gs500 Rear wheel and tire from ebay.
$25- Katana front rotor
$20- Rear bearing kit
$20- Miscellaneous bolts, screws, etc.
$200- Machine work.
$5.00 - Tire dismount
$20- tire mount and balance
$7.00 loctite
$5.00 Angle Grinder blade to cut the spacers
(Brake bracket material was free)

Estimated total: $452.00

However... If you have the money, get your stock hubs laced to Excels or Warp9's.
With this setup, the dr doesn't like highway speeds.
Wheelies are a bitch to pull up now.
But it handles amazing
I know this thread is like pretty dead, but if you dont mind me asking, what do you mean "doesnt like highway speeds?"

I was seriously considering this setup as my commuter wheelset so I could use my stock wheels for some minimal trail riding.

I'd be doing it on a 99 SE so apparently its more difficult for me

I appreciate it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I know this thread is like pretty dead, but if you dont mind me asking, what do you mean "doesnt like highway speeds?"

I was seriously considering this setup as my commuter wheelset so I could use my stock wheels for some minimal trail riding.

I'd be doing it on a 99 SE so apparently its more difficult for me

I appreciate it
The stock gearing setup is a bit wound out at 60-65. I have since put on the TM33 pumper carb, oversized valves, head work, and 390 kit. I can wheelie 5th now. Incredible difference. I have actually bashed these wheels for the past year. They hold up great. Solid choice.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
The stock gearing setup is a bit wound out at 60-65. I have since put on the TM33 pumper carb, oversized valves, head work, and 390 kit. I can wheelie 5th now. Incredible difference. I have actually bashed these wheels for the past year. They hold up great. Solid choice.
By wound out do you mean really high revs at that speed? That's awesome you did those mods and its performing how you wants

Do you think ill experience the same problems you did if I have a stock motor but running 15/38 gearing? Wheelies would be cool but I guess they're not completely necessary ha

Bike looks sick by the way
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
By wound out do you mean really high revs at that speed? That's awesome you did those mods and its performing how you wants

Do you think ill experience the same problems you did if I have a stock motor but running 15/38 gearing? Wheelies would be cool but I guess they're not completely necessary ha

Bike looks sick by the way
Thank you sir! The loss of pep is noticeable and significant! However, the 350 motor in mine (swapped in a 250 frame from another 1994 with no title) had bad valve seals, rings, and you could see daylight through the valve seats. The old BST carb was wore out so I went and freshened everything up. So if your bike runs strong currently, you should be fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Thank you sir! The loss of pep is noticeable and significant! However, the 350 motor in mine (swapped in a 250 frame from another 1994 with no title) had bad valve seals, rings, and you could see daylight through the valve seats. The old BST carb was wore out so I went and freshened everything up. So if your bike runs strong currently, you should be fine.
Ya, Im really digging the look!

So if I'm reading correctly, you have a 350 motor on a 250 frame? is this 250 frame the frame you did the gs wheel swap on?

Thats terrible about the motor, I've always heard these motors were bulletproof as long as you do regular maintenance. Im adjusting the valves this weekend, but as far as I can tell from riding it, the motor feels good.

I definitely plan on sourcing some GS wheels within the next 2 or so months and learning about cush hubs and all that. I'll be doing this on a '99 350SE so I've heard its a lot easier on the pre-'98s. Im not expert but I've done some minimal fabbing and I think i could probably do this swap. I'll definitely be using this as my main guide. Most other threads are 8+ years old with broken pic links, as im sure you've seen.

Also, Do you have a write for those frame sliders? I'm really trying to do that
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ya, Im really digging the look!

So if I'm reading correctly, you have a 350 motor on a 250 frame? is this 250 frame the frame you did the gs wheel swap on?

Thats terrible about the motor, I've always heard these motors were bulletproof as long as you do regular maintenance. Im adjusting the valves this weekend, but as far as I can tell from riding it, the motor feels good.

I definitely plan on sourcing some GS wheels within the next 2 or so months and learning about cush hubs and all that. I'll be doing this on a '99 350SE so I've heard its a lot easier on the pre-'98s. Im not expert but I've done some minimal fabbing and I think i could probably do this swap. I'll definitely be using this as my main guide. Most other threads are 8+ years old with broken pic links, as im sure you've seen.

Also, Do you have a write for those frame sliders? I'm really trying to do that
Yes, the 350 motor bolts in using the existing motor mounts and wiring. Plus I get the higher rev limiter from the 250 :rofl:

You will probably want to swap in some pre 98 forks and front axle so you can have the same front axle diameter as the GS.

I got my ideas from this guy: http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/dr350-supermoto-project-on-a-klr-budget.742198/

Wheel sliders are ebay skateboard wheels and bearings on a 10-24 all thread rod. That's it! You can use a 1/4 all thread on the rear though.

I am about to graduate with my BS in May, so I plan on doing a full write up when I have the time. With specific bearings, links, and spacer info down to a few thousandths.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Yes, the 350 motor bolts in using the existing motor mounts and wiring. Plus I get the higher rev limiter from the 250 :rofl:

You will probably want to swap in some pre 98 forks and front axle so you can have the same front axle diameter as the GS.

I got my ideas from this guy: http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/dr350-supermoto-project-on-a-klr-budget.742198/

Wheel sliders are ebay skateboard wheels and bearings on a 10-24 all thread rod. That's it! You can use a 1/4 all thread on the rear though.

I am about to graduate with my BS in May, so I plan on doing a full write up when I have the time. With specific bearings, links, and spacer info down to a few thousandths.
So in doing this on a 250, do you think the dimensions will be the same for a 350 frame?

Swapping to pre 98 forks would actually be a downgrade because 98/99 had a cartridge fork system. That's why people dig them. I guess it'll be a bit harder for me.

Ok for the sliders, the threaded rod should go straight through to the other side, then wheels on each side?

Thats awesome about graduation, I think I'm dec 16. So I understand youre excitement. BS for me too!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So in doing this on a 250, do you think the dimensions will be the same for a 350 frame?

Swapping to pre 98 forks would actually be a downgrade because 98/99 had a cartridge fork system. That's why people dig them. I guess it'll be a bit harder for me.

Ok for the sliders, the threaded rod should go straight through to the other side, then wheels on each side?

Thats awesome about graduation, I think I'm dec 16. So I understand youre excitement. BS for me too!
I can assure you, the dimensions are the same. I have owned a 91 dr350s, a 1994 DR250SE, and a 1994 DR350SE.

I would love to have the newer forks, just have some custom bearings made and you'll be good to go.

Sliders use an all thread rod through the axle, wheel with bearings, then washer and lock nut on the exterior of the skateboard wheel.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top