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Crash279's Fuel Injected 2014 WR450

89K views 279 replies 61 participants last post by  SupermotoBroo 
#1 ·
The time has come...time to get with the times and see what this fuel injected dirt bike is all about :anim_peep:

This was my wife's idea...but either way I ended up with a brand new 2014 WR450! This is the first dirt bike that I've ever bought brand new, feels kinda weird actually. I have a lot of the necessary parts, but still waiting on the mailman for the rest. Eventually I'll get some Rad Mfg. 17's, but for now I will get this thing roadworthy.













 
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#3 ·
Crash and a wr450??? Nooo who woulda thunk it lol. Congratz. Im jeally i love that bike.
 
#6 ·
Nice, i want one so bad to stunt but even with the step seat my 250x is as tall a bike i could possibly be able to ride. Sux bein short legged at times lol. Someday i'll take the plunge anyways n figure out something for seat to chop it down but think i have no chance with dirt wheels on one.
 
#19 ·
I can't wait to get started on it!

Brembo front brake I hope hehe
Unfortunately Brembo would be one of my last choices. However, we're handing out this year's shirts at today's ride and mine has "Brembos 4 life" printed on the back lol. For some reason everybody finds tons of humor in Brembos now.
 
#22 ·
So I snuck out of work today and eventually ended up in the garage. I finally have caught up with all the various bikes/builds in my garage and I was able to divert my attention to the new addition to the family!

Anyway, here we go...:







I began the tear down:





The first thing was to remove the airbox snorkel:





I installed the Battery Tender Harness when I put the battery back in the bike:



Then it was over to the right hand side of the bike to finish the de-restricting:



The OEM exhaust is basically set up for a moped:





I removed the exhaust and header from the bike in order to access the throttle stop in the throttle body. For this you'll need a T-25 bit and the GYTR throttle stop (which comes with the competition ECU) will require a 4mm bit.



Once the throttle stop had been replaced, it was time to address the exhaust:





This screen will be removed after I start the bike:



After that, it was time to swap out the ECU:





OEM ECU:



Competition ECU:

 
#23 ·
Then it was time to install the handlebar switches:







...and the right hand side:











I went with a TRX450R master cylinder and a start/stop switch from a ADR bike (ADR is the street legal version sold in Australia and the UK). Tomorrow I will get started wiring everything up. Then I'll be working on a set of Rad Mfg. 17's...
 
#44 ·
Ok, that would make sense. It works like a charm BTW!

Are you still waiting on your RAD wheels? I am too...
Still waiting on random parts to show up. I had to order one connector from the UK which stuff like that takes its time when you really want it ASAP lol. I also need more time, but people keep bringing me broken bikes...which will help pay for the Rad Mfg. wheels.
 
#27 ·
Thank you sir!

Damn another sweet project crash! Can't wait to see the finished product, and a ride report comparison between the carbed bikes and FI!
I can't wait to experience the difference. I'll definitely do a comparison.

Are you going to wire your OEM light to work as a running/brake light?
Yes, I'll pull power up front and run a wire, with a pin, to the OEM taillight plug and pin it. Already have the master cylinder on, just waiting on the opportunity to get this thing wired up.
 
#33 ·
I've tried all 0's, the Aussie map and the mud/sand map.

The Aussie map was awesome but I agree that I think it is leaning it out. EGTs were pretty high, melted my pants (I don't have a heat shield on my exhaust). I'm running the mud map currently and it does take something away from the lower revs and at first it felt very surgy/not smooth but the longer I ride it, the smoother it feels. I've got nothing to back that up with other than esoteric observation though.

In general the bike just smooths out so much better the more I ride it. I got a 2012 that had maybe 20 hrs on it and looked brand new. After doing the ECU and running it for a bit, the bike starts at the first tap of the starter (let the pump finish priming first, and in fact if you stall it or kill with with the switch and go to restart it, blip the on/off again to let the pump prime again before restarting). Before that I had significant issues getting it to start, kick start seemed the only way to go. But as I said with the new ECU and as it has broken in, it fires right up!

I'm excited to see how your build goes, I'm still waiting on my RAD wheels.
 
#34 ·
I had the same hard start issue before putting in the comp ecu and a good map. That GYTR/FMF pipe is loud. Like obnoxious make your neighbors hate you loud, but I figure I'll get rid of my pipe as soon as the neighbors on either side of me get rid of their yappy ass taco bell dogs. I wouldn't wait to order those RAD mfg rims. Mine took two months to get.
 
#38 ·
Yes, definitely want the cush drive hubs...

Mine took over 3 months for Talon cush hubs!
Can't go wrong with Excel/Talon. Ours shipped 1 day after ordering.
I would like to get the cush drive hubs...

I had the same hard start issue before putting in the comp ecu and a good map. That GYTR/FMF pipe is loud. Like obnoxious make your neighbors hate you loud, but I figure I'll get rid of my pipe as soon as the neighbors on either side of me get rid of their yappy ass taco bell dogs. I wouldn't wait to order those RAD mfg rims. Mine took two months to get.
My neighbors already look at me and shake their heads. I think it's from all those other dudes riding wheelies on their dirt bikes up and down our street lol. Then again, I do leave for work at 5AM lol.
 
#40 ·
Yeah, tgiv is alright lol.

I know the switch that you're referring to and the one on ebay sounds like a decent deal if it works as advertised. I have the switch function reversed and re-pin the wires into connectors accordingly. The FI ('12-current) WR's are configured differently and though the switch will work, you'll lose the low fuel light. I'm currently waiting on parts and the switch that I'm using on this project is from the street legal (ADR) WR from Australia. I'm going to use a LED light to supplement the low fuel light from the OEM on/off switch.
 
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