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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a DRZ400S that I have sense converted to supermoto with a 320mm rotor and EBC red pads, ate super blue and SS line. I had it on the track last friday and it didn't have any issues with fade or feel but it required enough pressure at the lever that it was making my fingers tired (I brake using my index and middle).

Would a different master cylinder size reduce the amount of pressure required?
 

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I've got a DRZ400S that I have sense converted to supermoto with a 320mm rotor and EBC red pads, ate super blue and SS line. I had it on the track last friday and it didn't have any issues with fade or feel but it required enough pressure at the lever that it was making my fingers tired (I brake using my index and middle).

Would a different master cylinder size reduce the amount of pressure required?
yes or put a 12 in brake lever on it and use the end of the lever:lol:

But seriously a bigger and more efficient MC would help with that...buddy of mine used the MC from the latest gen R6 which I want to do as well
 

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a larger bore master cylinder WILL NOT DECREASE PRESSURE REQUIRED in fact it will do quite the opposite and make it harder to pull it will however make it very feedback friendly because its moving a greater amount of fluid. A smaller master size or bigger caliper piston area will make it easier to pull BUT it will also make feedback mushier and not as feedback orientated.

It sounds like possibly youd be happier with like a 13mm master from maybe brembo with the included longer lever of that setup. just a suggestion do the research make your own judgment call brake components are expensive to be changing them out because they arent what you want.

Another option is just a longer lever if you can find one as well as one of those finger exercise things that you squeeze give you a man type of grip :)

or add a finger to your brake technique

z
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
It sounds like possibly youd be happier with like a 13mm master from maybe brembo with the included longer lever of that setup. just a suggestion do the research make your own judgment call brake components are expensive to be changing them out because they arent what you want.
Thanks for getting me started in the right direction.

Another option is just a longer lever if you can find one as well as one of those finger exercise things that you squeeze give you a man type of grip :)

or add a finger to your brake technique
I hope with as much rock climbing and jui-jitsu that I do I've got a good grip strength, and I feel relaxed on the bike so I don't think I'm over-gripping, but a longer lever and moving the lever in some so I'm using the end of the lever instead of the inside of it might be an easy solution to the problem that I was overlooking.

Thanks!
 

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Try bleeding your brakes more. You could have a bubble in your line. Even super small bubblescan cause weak brakes. Theres times I see no bubbles coming out but I gotta keep bleeding and more bleeding and more and more, it gets exhausting. Keep moving the line around to try and release bubbles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Try bleeding your brakes more. You could have a bubble in your line. Even super small bubblescan cause weak brakes. Theres times I see no bubbles coming out but I gotta keep bleeding and more bleeding and more and more, it gets exhausting. Keep moving the line around to try and release bubbles.
The lever is rock hard, just takes more force than I'd like. I've got a reverse bleeder that I use. You should try one of those it's expensive but it makes getting all the air out really easy. Also consider cracking your bango bolt when bleeding or taking the MC off the handle bars to get a straight shot.
 
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